To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

US Style woodframe construction

To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Steevo

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 18, 2009
Messages
8,738
Location
43.49600, -112.04300
Generally, we use "L" shaped anchor bolts that are sunk into the concrete wall or in the openings in the top of the blocks. The bottom plate on the stud wall is drilled and set down over the bolts, then washers and nuts tighten down to hold it in place.

Nowadays, building codes are requiring straps cast into the concrete as well, and they extend up the studs a couple of feet to tie the wall into the footing.

Here is picture:

i-9vk9R2W-M.jpg


Here is an explanation:

http://www.infoforbuilding.com/Footings_foundation_N.html
 
Last edited:

Falcon67

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 11, 2009
Messages
18,371
Location
Merkel, TX
Typical for here is as above - 1/2" hot dipped galvanized "L" anchor bolts spaced no more than 12" from corners and 6' or less spacing on the perimeter. If you have already poured, you missed the boat on that. Anchors are set just as the concrete begins to set up in the forms - about 30 minutes after pour, or so. You can go back and hammer drill holes and use expanding bolts.
 

justanengineer

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 5, 2011
Messages
7,722
Location
Motor City
Depending on age and location, it may only be gravity. In many cases the stud walls arent attached to the foundation in any manner, hence why so many houses slide off their foundation during tornadoes or hurricanes. If you google for images of New Orleans' 9th Ward after Hurricane Katrina you will likely find pics where the house is intact (tho damaged), but off the foundation.
 

cyamaha2007

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 20, 2009
Messages
2,001
Location
St.Charles MO
Since you have already poured just build your wall set it on the footing then drill through the bottom sill of your wall and into the concrete footing. Now drive a expansion type concrete anchor in the hole. As you tighten the nut the anchor will wedge into the concrete.
 

blkhonda1991

Well-known member
Joined
May 20, 2008
Messages
608
Location
Connecticut
Thanks for your reaction and info guys :bowdown:,

So I think if I build double brick walls with a 2" gap between, and than put in the anchor bolts and than fill the gap with concrete that must do the trick.
Also if I put some kind of layer like bluestone or something on top of the brick walls (for the looks) I have to make sure that rainwater can get away from the wood.
Is it necessary to put some sort of isolation between the bricks/concrete/bluestone and the wood ?

2" of concrete isn't going to give the bolt much holding power, there are typically min. coverages based on the size of the bolt. if this is a small shed probably not an issue, anything bigger you probably dont want to go this route. btw this is the typical detail for wood framed construction in the US.
ICCA2008100208134378461.jpg
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

cyamaha2007

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 20, 2009
Messages
2,001
Location
St.Charles MO
Your wood wall will be flush with the outside of the foundation. So water running back shouldnt be a issue. Be sure to use pressure treated lumber for the sill plate and use sill seal.
 

pmiranda

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 15, 2008
Messages
1,504
Location
Austin, TX
I'm curious...why the double-brick?
It seems like generally brick is only used as an exterior veneer these days, tied to the wood frame per code.
I'm guessing you need the lower portion of the wall to be rot-resistance inside as well as out? Maybe build it from concrete masonry units? I think you can still drill the footer and insert reinforcing bars to tie it into the CMUs, but I don't know what you need for your local codes.
 

JakeKohl

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 23, 2012
Messages
1,365
Location
Greenville, SC
My structure was built with a poured concrete footer about 24" deep into the ground. Then a short cast concrete block wall (with mortar) was built. At the top of that short concrete block wall, galvanized straps were bedded into the mortar. The wood bottom plate then had holes drilled in it where the strap came through. The strap was then bent and nailed (multiple times) to the bottom sill plate. You can sort-a see a few of these straps in this photo (may need to follow the link and view the larger photo).


DSC_1971 by Team Seacats, on Flickr


DSC_2046 by Team Seacats, on Flickr


DSC_2647 by Team Seacats, on Flickr
 
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom