Use hammer drill as makeshift impact hammer?

[BikeRider]

Sorry if this sounds stupid. Now and then I come across a rusted on and seized part I need to get off the car, like a snap ring or CV axle end stuck in the hub splines, and I could use an impact hammer (the kind you attach a chisel bit to) to loosen seized bonds a bit, but can't justify buying one that I'd rarely use. I do though have an impact hammer, specifically the Gen 2 Milwaukee M12 one (not the newer Gen 3 that recently came out), which in hammer drill mode impacts the bit in and out axially, like an impact hammer, only far less powerfully. I was just wondering if in a pinch I could use it as a make-do impact hammer, with either an old drill bit or a short piece of steel rod or even a small chisel bit, and if so whether it would be powerful enough for such tasks, or a waste of time and possibly damaging to my hammer drill?

 

[four.cycle]

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I just sent one of these to another member:

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Cripe has about a dozen different flavors of those - all under $20 bucks (including shipping)

cheap enough at those prices to abuse them. I cannot address your question concerning the hammer drill, but any of these combined with a short 3-pound hammer should loosen up most anything.

 

[mike93lx]

A hammer drill will be of little use. They aren't powerful and generally don't have a setting to stop rotation. A demo hammer (sds-drive) will usually have a setting to only hammer and can be very powerful, but are also way larger than am air hammer

 

[Under_Pressure]

A couple years ago I bought a trailer that had a pintle hitch, so I needed to take the multi ball hitch out of my receiver and install a pintle hook. It hadn't been in there for THAT long, but for whatever reason the 5/8 pin that holds the ball mount in the receiver was seized like nothing I've ever seen. I tried everything I had at my disposal (did NOT have a .401 shank air hammer yet at that time) and had pretty much decided that the only solution was going to be to melt it out with a torch when I remembered my 1 3/4" Makita SDS-Max rotary hammer. Figured it was worth a shot at that point, so I put in a pointed chisel, set it to hammer only, and it busted that pin loose like nothing. So yeah, if you can get it where you need it they can definitely do the job, but as noted those that have any power tend to be big and awkward for automotive applications. Which I guess is why hammering/chiseling is one place that air tools still reign supreme.

 

[Jswain]

Chisel/punch+hammer+elbow grease=Makeshift air hammer lol

 

[dnschmidt]

Chisel/punch+hammer+elbow grease=Makeshift air hammer lol

Which, me being a lazy ****, have five air hammers including BIG NASTY. Elbow grease: PLEASE!!!! I'm not a Barbarian.

 

[Jswain]

Which, me being a lazy ****, have five air hammers including BIG NASTY. Elbow grease: PLEASE!!!! I'm not a Barbarian.

I have 3, but my option is better then trying to use a hammer drill.

 

[BikeRider]

A couple years ago I bought a trailer that had a pintle hitch, so I needed to take the multi ball hitch out of my receiver and install a pintle hook. It hadn't been in there for THAT long, but for whatever reason the 5/8 pin that holds the ball mount in the receiver was seized like nothing I've ever seen. I tried everything I had at my disposal (did NOT have a .401 shank air hammer yet at that time) and had pretty much decided that the only solution was going to be to melt it out with a torch when I remembered my 1 3/4" Makita SDS-Max rotary hammer. Figured it was worth a shot at that point, so I put in a pointed chisel, set it to hammer only, and it busted that pin loose like nothing. So yeah, if you can get it where you need it they can definitely do the job, but as noted those that have any power tend to be big and awkward for automotive applications. Which I guess is why hammering/chiseling is one place that air tools still reign supreme.

I have a hammer drill, not a rotary hammer. I.e. the baby brother.

 

[dnschmidt]

I have a hammer drill, not a rotary hammer. I.e. the baby brother.

It's an infant baby brother. Definitely pre-toddler. I buy drills and I buy rotary hammers. I never buy a hammer drill as I don't believe they have a purpose in this world.

 

[BikeRider]

It's an infant baby brother. Definitely pre-toddler. I buy drills and I buy rotary hammers. I never buy a hammer drill as I don't believe they have a purpose in this world.

It came in an M12 kit with the impact driver. I got it for the drill part and doubt I'll use the hammer function much, but it seemed nice to have just in case. In fact I might have a use for it soon, installing a v-hook outside to hang a garden hose from. Nothing major and hopefully it can handle it. But if I did any masonry work I'd obviously get the big brother.

 

[Walkers]

Sorry if this sounds stupid. Now and then I come across a rusted on and seized part I need to get off the car, like a snap ring or CV axle end stuck in the hub splines, and I could use an impact hammer (the kind you attach a chisel bit to) to loosen seized bonds a bit, but can't justify buying one that I'd rarely use. I do though have an impact hammer, specifically the Gen 2 Milwaukee M12 one (not the newer Gen 3 that recently came out), which in hammer drill mode impacts the bit in and out axially, like an impact hammer, only far less powerfully. I was just wondering if in a pinch I could use it as a make-do impact hammer, with either an old drill bit or a short piece of steel rod or even a small chisel bit, and if so whether it would be powerful enough for such tasks, or a waste of time and possibly damaging to my hammer drill?

You can buy an air hammer for as little as 30 bucks, new, on Amazon. For $75 you could have a kick *** air hammer. I wouldn't fool with a hammer drill, or demo hammer.

 

[BikeRider]

You can buy an air hammer for as little as 30 bucks, new, on Amazon. For $75 you could have a kick *** air hammer. I wouldn't fool with a hammer drill, or demo hammer.

Perhaps, but the compressor, line and all the rest will cost quite a bit more, plus literally no place to store or use them, and for that once every few years need, just not worth it.

 

[Walkers]

Perhaps, but the compressor, line and all the rest will cost quite a bit more, plus literally no place to store or use them, and for that once every few years need, just not worth it.

You dont have a compressor at all? It doesn't take much of one to run one, there is a recent thread on the topic.

 

[KnurledNut]

@BikeRider
What is the model number on your hammer drill?

 

[mike93lx]

It's an infant baby brother. Definitely pre-toddler. I buy drills and I buy rotary hammers. I never buy a hammer drill as I don't believe they have a purpose in this world.

They are completely adequate, and much more convenient, for small holes. I own both and they have their purposes.

 

[BikeRider]

You dont have a compressor at all? It doesn't take much of one to run one, there is a recent thread on the topic.

No garage, shed, outlet, so yeah, no compressor, no need for one. Basically 0% chance I'll get or need one.

 

[BikeRider]

@BikeRider
What is the model number on your hammer drill?

M12 Gen 2, as above.

 

[BikeRider]

They are completely adequate, and much more convenient, for small holes. I own both and they have their purposes.

So they have any use beyond drilling small holes in masonry, say for my original goal of breaking rusted and seized bonds on small auto parts, using say a dull or broken drill bit?

 

[mike93lx]

So they have any use beyond drilling small holes in masonry, say for my original goal of breaking rusted and seized bonds on small auto parts, using say a dull or broken drill bit?

No. They are not any good for that application. Just drilling small holes in masonry

 

[BikeRider]

No. They are not any good for that application. Just drilling small holes in masonry

Got it, thanks.

 

[bcradio]

No. They are not any good for that application. Just drilling small holes in masonry

Agree.
In your situation it is probably best to just use the manual option.

 

[BikeRider]

It just occurred to me that with rusted and seized fasteners using a decent impact wrench at its least powerful setting might help break the fastener loose using impacts the way that a rotary hammer might, with the low setting making it less likely that it'll snap the fastener and make the job vastly harder. Does this work and make sense?

Obviously I'd also apply penetrating oil and possibly heat to help loosen things.

I'm asking these questions because I'm about to try to remove the intake and exhaust manifolds and turbo on a 30+ year old car I'm restoring that quite possibly have never been removed, and the last thing I want is broken bolts and studs in an engine block and am trying to prep for this to avoid it.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Not cheap, but much closer to what you are looking for : Milwaukee Palm Nailer.

The punches and/or chisels must be pretty small as it is limited to 16D nails.

 

[mike93lx]

Impacting is completely different than hammering.
impacts have a coaxial force that tries to rotate the fastener with blows. Hammer drills hit the face of the fastener while also trying to rotate.

In automotive work, a hammer can break lose a rust bond so that it can be spun out. The impact tries to rotate through that rust bond and as a result will sometimes break fasteners

 

[Jswain]

Your best friend for manifold bolts will be heat. Even a propane torch will do it just takes much longer. Leave it on each nut for 5-10 minutes before you even attempt to break it free. Sometimes it helps to quench with a spray/penetrant before trying to break it free, and sometimes you want to repeat the process multiple times per stud to get it turning freely.

Whatever it takes is better than breaking studs & having to drill/extract/weld to the broken studs.

 

[sdowney717]

I have a large SDS hammer drill. It can hammer and rotate, just rotate, or just hammer.
It is not an impact type wrench.
It is big tool, the air hammer is small and fits well into small spaces.
For ripping up concrete floor tiles with a special chisel, or pounding concrete to bits, all you want is the hammer action.

 

[KnurledNut]

@BikeRider
What is the model number on your hammer drill?

M12 Gen 2, as above.

Yeah, I can read. Pretty well actually.
Im not a huge Milwaukee guy so I dont care to remember the timeline of every tool they make.
My suggestion is to just try it. The worst it can do is not work. Not even sure why the question was asked in the first place. And you mentioned hurting it? If it has a percussion only mode, then obviously it was designed for that. So...