Dave Maxwell
Well-known member
To heat a 3024 SF shop. How many gallons typically a day would it use. Trying to see if I have enough used oil supply
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Used oil burner.
- Thread starter Dave Maxwell
- Start date
OP
Dave Maxwell
Well-known member
Thank you. I have access to alot of hydraulic oil, but alot of times it gets antifreeze I have it from multiracial use drain cart at work
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Dave Maxwell
Well-known member
Multi use cart. Dumb auto word phone
Provincial
Well-known member
Two things will limit your fuel consumption for a given temperature setting: 1) The size of the burner unit (usually limited by the nozzle size) or 2) If the burner doesn't run continuously, the amount of run time in a cycle will be determined by the volume to be heated (length x width x height) the amount of insulation, the amount of leakage (tightness) of the building, and the temperature differential to the outside air. For the purposes of tightness, you should consider how often you cycle large doors open, or if you cycle them often, the heat recovery cycle should be analyzed as a separate factor.
In the first case, the burner runs all the time and just keeps up to the desired temp or never reaches that temp. In the second case, the burner has the ability to exceed the desired temp, but cycles off with the thermostat. The tighter the building, the easier it is to hold the heat. Unless you have a very low ceiling, fans will reduce the heat requirement since the warm air will be circulated back down to floor level rather than all go to the ceiling. This is very significant in reducing the heat requirement. The taller the room, the more btu's you need to heat the same square footage.
If you have a fuel supply that is contaminated with antifreeze, it takes a tank with drain bung at the bottom. For best results, you need to let the stuff settle for days or weeks, then drain off the water/antifreeze at the bung. Don't use the bottom few inches of the remaining oil, preferably pumping the top half to another tank, from which it can be used. If you add new contaminated oil to the "settling tank" you need to let it settle again. I don't know of a quick and economical way to separate antifreeze other than this. All filtering systems are expensive to install and operate. This is the annoying part of water/antifreeze contaminaton.
In the first case, the burner runs all the time and just keeps up to the desired temp or never reaches that temp. In the second case, the burner has the ability to exceed the desired temp, but cycles off with the thermostat. The tighter the building, the easier it is to hold the heat. Unless you have a very low ceiling, fans will reduce the heat requirement since the warm air will be circulated back down to floor level rather than all go to the ceiling. This is very significant in reducing the heat requirement. The taller the room, the more btu's you need to heat the same square footage.
If you have a fuel supply that is contaminated with antifreeze, it takes a tank with drain bung at the bottom. For best results, you need to let the stuff settle for days or weeks, then drain off the water/antifreeze at the bung. Don't use the bottom few inches of the remaining oil, preferably pumping the top half to another tank, from which it can be used. If you add new contaminated oil to the "settling tank" you need to let it settle again. I don't know of a quick and economical way to separate antifreeze other than this. All filtering systems are expensive to install and operate. This is the annoying part of water/antifreeze contaminaton.
Charles (in GA)
Well-known member
All of the commercially manufactured used oil furnaces consume about 3/4 gal per hour, per 100,000 btu.
You give little info on your shop.
Where is it located, or what kind of climate.
What kind of building, steel, wood, block
How high is the ceiling, or roof if no ceiling
What is the number of CUBIC FEET of space in it (ie. my 60x60x16 steel building w/12/2 roof is 66,600 Cu/Ft. and is 3600 sq ft.
What kind of insulation, how much
How many doors? do they have insulation
Is it a tight building or a loose one as far as air leakage goes
You give little info on your shop.
Where is it located, or what kind of climate.
What kind of building, steel, wood, block
How high is the ceiling, or roof if no ceiling
What is the number of CUBIC FEET of space in it (ie. my 60x60x16 steel building w/12/2 roof is 66,600 Cu/Ft. and is 3600 sq ft.
What kind of insulation, how much
How many doors? do they have insulation
Is it a tight building or a loose one as far as air leakage goes