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Used Smith Boiler?

redss86

Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2009
Messages
6
I found a Smith Cast Iron Boiler for sale. Model number is GB100-W-6. It is already set up for propane (which is what I need). It comes with pump, expansion tank, air bleeder, fill port, and an auto-fill valve. It says it's rated for 125,000 BTU/hr input, and 102,500 BTU/hr output. I figure it is a lot bigger than what I need. I will be using to heat my 30'x50' shed. It will be in-floor radiant heat, with a 5" floor and insulation under and on sides, R13 in walls, 3- 10'x8' insulated doors, 36" service door, and 2 30"x36" windows. I don't have any insulation in attic yet, but plan too. I live in So. IL, just east of St. Louis, MO. I believe it was installed around 1991, so it's pretty old. Looks to be in great condition. I was told it works great.

My big question is, how efficient will this be, and is $215 a good price?

Here are a couple pics of it.
boiler2.jpg
boiler.jpg
 
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koditten

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Apr 10, 2008
Messages
5,528
Location
Midland, Michigan
Thats what I did. Can you really calculate savings. This boiler will be around 86% efficient, the new ones 96%. 215 bucks with all that hardware included, what a deal. A garage will never be as efficient as a home. Might as well save some money up front.

As for being built in '91, that isn't that old. What could possible go wrong? Need new gas valve=cheap, need a new relay=cheap, thermocoupler=cheap. I'm guessing this is a standing pilot boiler, in my opinion, less to go wrong the better.

As long as you get it checked out ahead of time, you are in good shape.

My boiler came out of a home that the new owners wanted forced air for air conditioning, so I knew it was fine from the start.

KO
 
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R

redss86

Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2009
Messages
6
I know it works, they just used it this past winter. Similar situation, they are probably in their 80's and decided to change over to some kind of heat pump that's supposed to be more efficient. I don't think I'll get hurt if small things do go wrong. Just wanted others opinions.
 
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Socophreak

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Joined
Jun 18, 2010
Messages
231
If you do buy it I would definitely Check the safeties (Pressure valve) and Do a good cleaning of the unit. Make sure you also grab the vent damper, as it is also supplied with the unit.

The manual on the page linked references Hot surface Ignition, continuous and intermittent pilot types.

As long as you follow the manual you shouldn't have a problem.
 

Jackfre

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Joined
Dec 26, 2010
Messages
4,406
Location
N CA
Buy it. Give it a good cleaning, block, burners, etc. replace the relief valves. Confirm gas pressures are set correctly. Install a CO detector. When piping it, make sure you pipe in a thermostatic by-pass from the supply piping to boiler return. Ensure at least a 140f return water temp to the boiler. To low a return temp will cause condensation and rapid deterioration to the boiler. That boiler will drive that slab just fine.
 

koditten

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 10, 2008
Messages
5,528
Location
Midland, Michigan
Buy it. Give it a good cleaning, block, burners, etc. replace the relief valves. Confirm gas pressures are set correctly. Install a CO detector. When piping it, make sure you pipe in a thermostatic by-pass from the supply piping to boiler return. Ensure at least a 140f return water temp to the boiler. To low a return temp will cause condensation and rapid deterioration to the boiler. That boiler will drive that slab just fine.

Couldn't said it plainer:thumbup:

In addition, the boiler is the main part of floor heat that makes this type of heat so expensive to install. I don't do plumbing for a living, but loved being a temporary plumber.

I hope you got it by now.

Kirk
 
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