Used Torque Wrench - Flat Beam or Dial?

[SynViks]

Assuming quality brands and that both types have memory pointers, if you're purchasing a used torque wrench, flat beam or dial?

As I see it, dial wins in terms of granularity of graduations, they're more compact, smaller dial face to keep an eye on while working with it. Problem is whether the thing is accurate or has been over torqued... as far as I know you can just turn the bezel to align zero with the needle? Do they tend to need recalibration over time?

Flat beam, or at least the brands I'm looking at, should be extremely accurate (a couple percent more than a dial) as long as the pointer is at zero while resting, and should continue to stay that way forever if not abused. The problem is the graduations tend to be not as granular vs the dial wrench, and the dial face in the beam is a bit more cumbersome in terms of clearance and keeping visual sight on in use.

 

[M635_Guy]

I'd personally choose dial if I absolutely had to choose between those two, just for the easier-to-use factor.

But honestly I'd get a more-modern torque wrench. Even very good ones aren't expensive these days.

 

[Spud McGee]

How does dial "wins in terms of granularity of graduations"? My split beam lets you dial in to each ftlb. Any finer granularity than that I think its not actually effective.

Like when you see a GPS coordinate with 9 decimal places. You know that 1 - it was not actually measured, but is the product of a floating point math operation. And 2 - there's probably not any GPS equipment you could buy that would take you precisely to that exact 9 decimal place location. So having the extra granularity is useless.

 

[SynViks]

How does dial "wins in terms of granularity of graduations"? My split beam lets you dial in to each ftlb. Any finer granularity than that I think its not actually effective.

For example, the 0-600 in-lb wrenches will have 20 or 25 in-lb grads for the flat beam, and 10 in-lb.
But given the error for a dial is around four percent, it can be out of place by over a graduation at 300 ftlb, so you're right that the additional granularity isn't necessarily helpful (same story with half tenth digital calipers vs thousandth graduated verniers).

I'd personally choose dial if I absolutely had to choose between those two, just for the easier-to-use factor. But honestly I'd get a more-modern torque wrench. Even very good ones aren't expensive these days.

I have the 250 ft-lb PI split beam for general stuff and it works fine. My Quinn electronic TWs have been nothing but issues with battery life and the electronics, so not going buying electronic again. I don't wrench at an auto shop for a living so I don't need the quickest to use wrench.

 

[seber]

Split beam never needs to be calibrated. Easier to use than any other.

 

[MarcSeattle]

What size ya looking for? I need to thin the herd in my box and I have a Proto 6016 that I need to sell (30-150 ft-lb).

 

[KnurledNut]

Dial with memory pointer.

 

[SynViks]

Appreciate everyone's input. Decided to go with flat beam style because then I don't have to have it re-calibrated if it reads zero (should outlive me as well). This particular flat beam has a clicker that can be engaged when a set torque is reached, so best of both worlds.