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Used truck wisdom

ironroad 9c1

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Sep 3, 2005
Messages
758
Location
Gum spring,VA
. Regular cab is fine if it's just a junk truck - then get a late 70s, early 80s beater for that.

Amen to that, picked this little fella up for 700 bucks. 84 GMC 1/2 ton.

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nate379

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Feb 2, 2009
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7,279
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Palmer, AK
I wouldn't even consider a 1/2 ton truck after owning a 3/4 ton for a few years. 4-5,000lbs in the bed and it handles it just fine.
 
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rylon

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Joined
Sep 7, 2009
Messages
49
Location
Beaverton Oregon
Well after a little research DEQ (emissions tests) are only exempt for vehicles made before 1975 and antique tags are only available for 1955 and earlier, and I think that is a little old and more work than I want at this time.

As far as 1/2 vs 3/4 ton I don't think I would have the use for the extra GVWR often enough to offset the price difference.

I think what I will be looking for is a standard cab F150 with the straight six and put a tool box and a tonneau cover and maybe a bed mat and will shop around for 4x4.

I have a friend that runs a transmission shop so I'll put in a word with him to keep an eye out, he often gets offered cars and trucks that people don't want to mess with the repairs. An he is into trucks so he would be able to look over the ****** and 4x4 workings for me to make sure I'm not getting screwed on the deal.

Rylon
 

Auzivision

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Joined
Oct 6, 2009
Messages
252
Location
Hoosier State
I would agree with you regarding the 1/2 ton versus 3/4 and 4X4 if you are heading to Mt Hood (or others areas) in the winter time. However, I’m not sure about your logic regarding an inline 6.

The 6 cylinders aren’t that much better on gas and have to work a heck of a lot harder relative to their capabilities. An older higher mileage V8 is more likely to have life left since it hasn’t had to work as hard.

If fuel consumption is a higher priority for you, then maybe you should look at a smaller 4X4 truck. Trucks are capably vehicles, but not all that efficient (other than the diesels). Economy cars are very efficient, just not as capable.

Sometime I feel fuel costs get too much attention. Say you drive 10,000 miles per year and gas is $3/gallon the annual costs at 18 MPG is $1666, 20 MPG $1500, and 22 MPG $1364. Say gas jumps to $4/gallon; annual cost would be $2222, $2000, $1818 respectively.

In the first example a 4 mpg increase gain one $302 a year, in the second example the same increase equates to $404. Relatively speaking that’s only about $100 difference on a vehicle that is 22% more efficient and a 33% fuel price spike.

I guess my point is there are plenty of reasons to strive for more fuel efficient vehicles, but from a purely financial perspective it doesn’t make much sense to upgrade when fuel prices go up. People are willing to spend multi-thousands of dollars to upgrade to more fuel efficient vehicles that are only going to return a few hundred dollars a year in relative cost savings.

What are they saving? The environment, maybe… money, probably not. Off my soap box now.
 

wrigh003

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Joined
Mar 27, 2006
Messages
783
Location
Birmingham, AL
I love, love my Ranger. It's perfect for 99% of what I need a truck for, general construction use and hauling remodeling debris to the dump. It makes a decent backup daily driver, too, since it's a 4x2 with a 4banger- I'm in it this week while my other car is in the shop. I drive it so little, though, that the "economy" part of its DNA is actually not that great for me. I would like to one of these days trade it for a TRUCK truck, instead of a compromise/economy truck.

I'll wind up trading it up for a bigger truck at some point, I think. Which wound up tying into the above post. If you're getting an occasional/weekend hauler- get what you need, gas mileage should be way down the list of criteria. Just my $.02.
 

lawfarm

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Jul 12, 2008
Messages
719
Location
NorCal
Auz,

For the Fords, in 1/2 tons, he's looking at a 300 Straight 6, or a 302 or 351 V-8. The 300 produces nearly as much torque, not quite as much HP, but will work all day without complaint, and is dead-set-reliable. The 300s will run far longer without a rebuild or serious mechanical work than either of the V-8s. And from a maintenance perspective, the 300 is a straight six...not a v-6. It's stone simple to work on. I'd take one every day of the week (and twice on sunday) over either of the Ford small blocks in a work truck. In fact, I did (my 95 F-150 was a regular cab, 8' bed, 4x4 with the 300 I6).
 

ihredo4

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Joined
Sep 3, 2009
Messages
1,575
Location
100 miles W of Daileyville in Idiotnois
I had a problem with the 351 in my 89 F-250. It was a high mileage unit with a tommy lift on it. Maybe 150,000 miles of stop and go driving. At about 160,000 I noticed when I would pull up to a stop light my oil pressure would drop. Long stor short the mains are undersized and the main journals got elongated and the oil would run right out of the mains and not keep the system pressurized. At about 180,000 (thought the gauge was bad) I split the piston in half at the wrist pin. That did it for me with the 351W. They are about useful as a boat anchor to me. We had an 82 F250 with the 300-6 and 4spd. t was a great truck. Wish we had it back. Only problem we had was the throttle butterfly had wear in the bushings. It leaned out the fuel mixture and scorched the two middle pistons. Upon rebuilding the engine we couldn't get oil pressure thru the lifters. We had 60lbs pressure on the gauge but couldnt get oil to the valve train. Ended up being an oil gallery plug behind the cam gear didnt get installed. The oil pump was at the distributer and would pressurize the rear three cylinders and the gauge but the oil would run out the gallery plug hole at the front. In my opinion it was a design error on fords part. the gauge should have been to the front of the engine where the gauge would not be pressurized do to the dead end passage. Sorry If I rambled on this, Bit I hope it gives you something to remember if you get into either of these engines. I wouldn't hesitate on the 300 6cyl again. I feel it is the best engine Ford ever made. And I am a Ford guy.
 
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StingRay

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Joined
Jan 26, 2006
Messages
1,340
Location
Saskatoon,SK. Canada
A mid 90's GM full size truck with a TBI 350 will go many hundreds of thousands of miles. If you can find one with say 150 K on the clock it will go another hundred easy and will likely have a fresh ****** in it good for another 100k. 2 x 4 or 4 x 4 either is fine as the 4 x 4 systems are pretty solid. I have a 92 4 x 4 as a DD and it's a great truck. It has about 120K on it. I agree on a reg cab 8 ft bed. It's what I have. I can haul lots, I am almost always the only person in the cab so no ext cab is needed and it's easy to park in the garage.
 

TRC51

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Joined
Jan 19, 2009
Messages
356
Glad you are staying away from 99+ Chevy's. No offense to the Chevy guys, but my entire family was Chevy, including me. After 4 chevy's in a row and being dissapointed (and my family too), I have since owned Dodge and Ford and have been pretty happy with both. I have had the mid 90's Chevy's and they were good trucks. Some smaller quirks with them, but at least they didn't need itermediate steering shafts, wheel bearings and brake pads every 15kmi (no, I'm not bitter :) ) I had reasonably good luck with my mid 90's trucks, so I think they would be a good option that could be picked up for your price range. My friends also seem to have reasonably good luck with their mid 90's Fords, so also a good option. Can't speak for dodge back in that day. Good luck with your shopping. There are still some nice trucks to be had from that day.

TRC
 

Pointbock

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Joined
May 17, 2006
Messages
207
Location
AK
Auz,

For the Fords, in 1/2 tons, he's looking at a 300 Straight 6, or a 302 or 351 V-8. The 300 produces nearly as much torque, not quite as much HP, but will work all day without complaint, and is dead-set-reliable. The 300s will run far longer without a rebuild or serious mechanical work than either of the V-8s. And from a maintenance perspective, the 300 is a straight six...not a v-6. It's stone simple to work on. I'd take one every day of the week (and twice on sunday) over either of the Ford small blocks in a work truck. In fact, I did (my 95 F-150 was a regular cab, 8' bed, 4x4 with the 300 I6).



+1

Jeep Comanche? Shares lots of parts with the XJ (Cherokee - millions in salvage yards,) also a straight six (plenty of torque and OK milage- I'd choose a 91 or 92,) available as 4X4 and some in long bed. No extended cabs unless you fab your own.
 

cravej

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Joined
Apr 8, 2008
Messages
64
My choice was a '95 F150 5.0 4X4: It currently has 155,000 miles on it.
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byrd

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Joined
Mar 6, 2008
Messages
175
96-98 extended cab full size chevy, cant beat a small block chevy! the only problems you will find are a windshield wiper board problem that should be replaced by now on a recall or you can do it yourself with some solder. they also have cab corner rust issues if the body has been neglected. other than that i have never owned a better truck. now the 2 or 4wd is a matter of preference. we get plenty of snow at times in cincinnati and i never have problems in my 2wd truck, maybe that is because i actually know how to drive unlike some around here. best part about them is they are fairly inexpensive and they made this body for 10 yrs so there are tons of cheap parts available if you need them.
 

saabman

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Joined
Oct 8, 2009
Messages
594
Location
Sebago Lake, Maine
Byrd is ritght on, my current mule is a 97 extended cab K1500 (5.0 l V8). I have owned Fords and Chevys before. Frame rust was a problem on my 91 Ford F150. Chevys have 4 sided sealed channel frames and Fords have U channel. Particular week spot on the early 90s Ford is the bend frame element at the front suspension. You will often find "fish" plates welded on to correct cracks.

Chris
 
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