Used two post lift concerns

[Zrxpilot]

I installed my lift last weekend. 10,000 lb Complete hydraulics. SL 10,000 OH. Bought it used from a guy that used it daily in a shop. I tested it with my truck before making the deal. Lifted my 05 2500 HD 4x4 (big block) like it was nothing.

First of all, I don't claim to know anything about anything as this was first time using a lift let alone installing one. The install was no big deal. Just used the instructions I found posted on the internet.

It seems to work fine but have a couple concerns. I have quite a bit of slack in my cables and am out of adjustment on one side and not much more on the other. At the mid point of the cable run along the columns, I can pull the cable probably 4" away from the column at rest (lifting devices on the floor with no load). The instruction says they should be tight like banjo strings?

I do have both cables in sync with one side trailing the other just a hair so can hear the clicks on each side. On the locks I am within 1/8" elevation to each other.

The last concern is with the penetration of the lock device into the locking holes inside the column. It appears that the "tooth" of the locking device is only penetrating about 1/8" into the locking hole (made of 1/4" punched plate). The locking device is clearly hitting the exterior column bulkhead as far as it can go. It appears to have always been this way as I do not see worn paint the full thickness. I need to look at it a little more before putting anything heavy on it. Put my jeep CJ on it and had no trouble going up or down.

On the loaded trip down it did appear that one side lowered at a different rate then the other side. It stayed equal after the initial 2-3" of drop but definetly did not lower parallel. Perhaps related to cable adjustment but you would think if the cables were out of sync, you would know it when you lifted it up as the locking clicks would not occur at the same time.

I also noticed the hydraulic rams have surface rust (not a lot...but some..more than I am comfortable with) at the base of the rams going up about 2 feet. I would imagine it would take a lot to rust thru a ram casing but have considered taking them out and having them inspected/rebuilt by someone? Maybe this isn't done. I don't know.

Its possible I am concerned over nothing but am not going to put anything heavy or valuble on this lift until I am sure its right. I got lots of time.

One concern at a time.

 

[pattenp]

The leveling cables should be tight. Are you sure they are installed correctly. Is one cable longer than the other and you have them reversed? The locking pawl should pass through the lock hole in the carriage with the full 1/4" thickness of the locking hole resting on the pawl.

Edit: Both leveling cables should be the same length. Check to see if you have them attached to the carriages in the proper connection holes.

 

[jhelrey]

Rust is normal as more shops wash the bays out with water, etc. Esp. when coolant is spilled.

 

[Zrxpilot]

Got a bead on the lock thing. For whatever reason, the higher the rams go up...the deeper penetration of the pawl into the lock.

Somethings up with it. Its like the whole assembly is tapered but darned if I can find it. At the carriage rest position, I measure a good inch from the outside face of the column to the inside face of the lock (sticking a tape thru the hole of the lock mechanism). Doing the same thing at full lift I measure only a 1/2".

1/2" is good. Has plenty of penetration of the locking pawl into the lock. This gradually gets worse as you go down the line.

I have looked at everything. The only thing I come up with is I can get the whole assembly to squeeze together using a c-clamp. Its almost as if the columns are wider at the bottom then the top. Both sides of the lift yield similar dimensions.

Funny thing is that's its been this way since day one. You can tell by the worn paint where the lock rests on the pawl. You get 3 or 4 locks up and the paint is wore off the full thickness. Below that elevation the paint is not worn. Ie, the lift is actually the safest at the highest elevation.

For now, I trust the safety mechanism only higher than the 3rd lock. Above that the pawl is deeply into the lock.

I see there is a Teflon type slider that I assume is of similar material as what we have on snowmobile skids (called hyfax). Perhaps this is worn and is causing the bottom of the assembly to kick out. This theory is potentially exacerbated by the offset lifting point of the cable that favors the inboard side.


Sorry for the long post but Don't know who else to go to. Maybe theres guys in the area that can come out and check this thing out like they do for garage doors.

 

[Aahz]

Where are you located? I could find you a lift installer / service company, but I need to know your zip code.

 

[henrysgarage]

On the few hoists that I have worked on they all have two different length cables, including my own.

 

[Zrxpilot]

^ Tomorrows project for sure. Switching the cables for no other reason than to rule it out.

Hoisted up my 2500 HD 4x4 with it tonight.The exercise was uneventful. Let me tell you...lifting up something 6500 lbs plus on used hoist that you installed yourself (my first time using a two post) is friggn nerve wracking.

No wiggles, no clangs or bangs. Let it sit up there for awhile and ran it up and down a couple times. Seems safe enough.

Layed out line on the floor with red duct tape measuring the width of my truck and coming up with a line I could see using my drivers mirror. This really helps when backing up a rig into the hoist without a spotter.

Bad news is I found a leak under my truck. Not sure where its coming from.