Hey everyone, Just wondering if it hurts the ratchet at all if you use a hollow pipe to get extra leverage. I had to pull a Bottom bracket out at work that was seized and one the of the guys there told me I shouldn't use the pipe because it will "f*ck up" the ratchet. I only used it till the bottom bracket broke free. this should be fine right?
Using a pipe as an extension?
- Thread starter zachk
- Start date
nate379
Banned
Can break the ratchet. Better off to use a breaker bar at least, but a 1/2 or 3/4" drive ratchet is fairly tough to break. Have put 8ft pipe on 3/4 ratchets before to get the lug nuts off tractors.
tonydanzah
Well-known member
if the ratchet has a warranty, I would make full use of it.
arkangel06
Banned
Look out Your gonna get flamed!!!!
Diesel-Mech
Well-known member
Doesn't hurt a ratchet at all, until it does. But yeah using a cheater will greatly increase your odds of stripping out the ratchet or bending the handle. Not to say you cant do it just use judgment and go in knowing you might be with out a ratchet before you are done.
tonydanzah
Well-known member
flame suit on
We don't have a breaker bar at work, they told me I only had about 10 minutes left to work in my stand(Next guy needed it) and there was no way I could break the bottom bracket free with a 8 inch long ratchet. From there, he gave me **** afterwards still. I hate my job.
superautobacs
Well-known member
If the pawl/gear breaks free from over-load, you may end up getting hurt, too.
A breaker bar or a high-tooth count ratchet of appropriate drive size would be a good solution.
A breaker bar or a high-tooth count ratchet of appropriate drive size would be a good solution.
shotgunfatcat
Well-known member
I would tell your work to buy the appropriate tools for the job.
bmrisko
Well-known member
That's what the 1/2" Craftsman ratchets are for...throw a pipe on there and if it breaks, go exchange it.
when you have to you have to, but use this as a learning experience and go out and get yourself either a breaker bar, longer ratchet, or some ratchets/sockets in the next size up (1/2" if you were using 3/8"). The last one might not apply if you are limited to the bottom bracket tools drive size. I know mine is only 3/8" drive.
I doubt that will happen, he won't even pay me yet even though I've busted my *** over the past 3 months for him. I'd go buy own proper tools and my own box if he didn't think I would "misplace" tools in my toolbox.
superautobacs
Well-known member
Boy, there seems to be some trust issue here between you and the employer.
I hope things get rectified....Good luck
I hope things get rectified....Good luck
Why are you working there if you haven't gotten paid in three months? Don't waste your time there. I too have been promised to get paid then paid only half of what I was owed. Promised to catch up but never happened.
Because I'm on work experience right now, when I started, he said he'd probably put me on the payroll after he see's how I do. I would have left already if my parent's would let me leave.
I usually end up having to use a 24" breaker bar on some bottom brackets. Those things stick. All my bottom bracket tools are 1/2" drive.
I wonder if using an impact next time would damage any of the aluminum parts? With spline teeth the impact force is more distributed...
I wonder if using an impact next time would damage any of the aluminum parts? With spline teeth the impact force is more distributed...
kooldino
Well-known member
I have a 7 year old Stanley 1/2" ratchet that I've slipped a pipe over countless times to break free some stubborn bolts. Never gave me any trouble.
alamerang
Well-known member
Wow this seems like a raw deal to me. I think you have bigger problems than stripping out a ratchet with a cheater bar. I'd say do what you can with what you got if you have to but be very careful and make sure you have a backup ratchet if you break it. If you are that hard up for tools and no money to speak of just pick up one of those 25" breaker bars at HF for $10. At least it'll get you by till you can afford something better.
bmxr4life87
Well-known member
So what kind of work do you do?
Bike mechanic.
06wt
Well-known member
i have had cheaters on atleast half my ratchets, i have broke a few but for the most part they hold up to my punishment
johnny1290
Well-known member
Well then your in a situation you have to just **** it up it sounds. This is a great lesson of warning signs to look for in future employers!
My unpaid internships were basically **** but got my foot in the door to an industry that's stupid hard to break into.
Oh, and I've done the ratchet pipe thing a million times. I'll use 1/2" vs 3/8 if I can.
I know I might blow up my ratchet though, just gotta decide if the risk-reward ratio is worth it.
Merkava might not agree with me ;-) but I like to work the hell outta my tools and if they break they break.
My unpaid internships were basically **** but got my foot in the door to an industry that's stupid hard to break into.
Oh, and I've done the ratchet pipe thing a million times. I'll use 1/2" vs 3/8 if I can.
I know I might blow up my ratchet though, just gotta decide if the risk-reward ratio is worth it.
Merkava might not agree with me ;-) but I like to work the hell outta my tools and if they break they break.
Merkava_4
Banned
I'd have to put all kinds of tape and padding on mine before I slid a pipe over it. Too much trouble, I wouldn't bother. 
Get one of these and a 3/4" to 1/2" impact adapter (if you don't have 3/4" sockets):
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200328359_200328359
I own one these and it sure seems like it would be hard to break even with a cheater bar on it.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200328359_200328359
I own one these and it sure seems like it would be hard to break even with a cheater bar on it.
caper
Well-known member
So your using your bosses tools on an internship.He won't let you bring your own.He won't buy a breaker bar but gives you **** for putting a cheater on the ratchet and he won't pay you and your parents won't let you quit.I'd say f*ck it and break the ratchet on purpose so he might fire me and I could get out of the shithole.
Underdog
Well-known member
I guess it depends on how hard you pull on it? As I get older i sure can't pull as hard as I used to. I would use a cheater pipe on a ratchet if I had to knowing full well that my pull is only as much as a young guy could pull without a cheater. Now days i reach for my 24" SO ratchet or my 36" 3/4" ratchet handle. If all else fails bring out the air impacts.
mrholeshot
MEMBER EMERITUS
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He is screwing you over big time. In my entire life I've never had a person work in my shop for free. I paid the kid that came to my shop each day and swept to floor and learned a little here and there 8 dollars an hour. Little by little he got the hang of doing oil changes, brakes and so on. Then when summer came and he was out of school full time he spent every minute in my shop as possible. Once he finished school he spent the next five years in my shop as a technician. He had 6 ASE certs down pat and another kid was mopping his bay. Even an unexperianced person who is dependable can make a great helper for other techs in the shop and when that tech doesnt have to sweep and mop his bay the tech and the shop makes more money. Internship inside a shop is just another word for slavery. Tell him to kiss your asz.
MarcSeattle
Well-known member
It's also probably illegal. In many states people have to be paid -- they're called the minimum wage laws. Just calling it an "internship" doesn't change that. If he really pisses you off then file a small claims court for minimum wage x the number of hours you work. Or threaten to and take a new Colnago in settlement.
Moose-LandTran
Well-known member
In many cases insurance is an issue too. If you're not an employee you're not insured in the shop. Should you get injured you can sue the **** out of the owner and he'll be facing other legal implications too.
On top of that, he sounds like a total ****. Go to some other shops, explain to the owners that for 3 months you've been working there, you want to learn more and do more, get your own tools, move up etc. Secure another job and walk out and into better pastures.
time to move on, 3 months and nothing to show for it. we have kids that volunteer at the bike shop where i work but they come at will. they choose to come and learn and can leave at anytime. yes we make them sweep and help take out the trash. definitely get your own tools. work provides tools for me(i do new bike assembly including the initial tune up) but they are all worn out. i would bring my own but i dont get a tool allowance, while the mechanics in the service department do. so i choose not too and use their worn out stuff(got a ratchet that skips, worn out allen sockets, Philips is worn out), and we dont have any real way to get new stuff either.
mrholeshot
MEMBER EMERITUS
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File a suit against him and get your back wages as well. The labor boards frown on his behavior and in some states carry jail time. If your parents won't back you up just slip and fall in his shop and tell them not to move you until your lawyers gets there. His insurance wouldn't like the fact that a "non-employee was in the service area of his shop. My insurance company was pretty tough on people not being in the work area of my shop. It happened but still risky.
Moose-LandTran
Well-known member
Or call up a no-win-no-fee place. Let them do it and let them recover their costs from him too.
I didn't want to start a big ordeal over this, I was just asking about the cheater.
Work experience students aren't required to be paid, but he did say that he'll probably put me on the payroll depending on how I did, rest of the guys in the back think I'm doing an awesome job. But I won't be sticking around much longer. I'm keeping in touch with a much better shop, manager over there even knows all the bs;and one of the old mechanics that used to be at my work, are over there now. Plus, the other shop is a much cleaner, more organized and professional enviroment. So no worries about my current shop at the moment, I'm in the process of getting another job lined up.
Work experience students aren't required to be paid, but he did say that he'll probably put me on the payroll depending on how I did, rest of the guys in the back think I'm doing an awesome job. But I won't be sticking around much longer. I'm keeping in touch with a much better shop, manager over there even knows all the bs;and one of the old mechanics that used to be at my work, are over there now. Plus, the other shop is a much cleaner, more organized and professional enviroment. So no worries about my current shop at the moment, I'm in the process of getting another job lined up.
wafrederick
Well-known member
I do it on GM "W" bodied cars when doing front brakes when using the T60 bit socket.Them 2 T60 bolts are tight,I use a breaker bar and piece of small exhaust pipe for a cheater bar to break them loose hearing a "snap" noise.I always think I broke the socket and did not.
06wt
Well-known member
i get the same feeling, or broke the hardware off in the hub
Hey, when you have to get a job done, you use whatever you can! We have all done that!
I've used them on ratchets before with no problems... but now I prefer to use them with my breaker bar. I use a 7 foot pipe with my Proto breaker bar for the really stubborn stuff that my impact won't remove! I've also been known to use a small foot long pipe on allen keys... sure beats them digging into your hands!
I regularly search in my garage for what I can use to make a tool!
I've used them on ratchets before with no problems... but now I prefer to use them with my breaker bar. I use a 7 foot pipe with my Proto breaker bar for the really stubborn stuff that my impact won't remove! I've also been known to use a small foot long pipe on allen keys... sure beats them digging into your hands!
I regularly search in my garage for what I can use to make a tool!
I slip a cheater bar over my ratchet almost every single day. Usually 3/8 taking off head bolts, and other fairly high torque items. Using a C-man ratchet, I typically exchange it once a year.
I can't imagine anyone not having one in their tool box..
Using an actual "breaker bar" usually still doesnt get enough leverage, so I usually slip a pipe over them, break it loose, then switch to the ratchet. I usually avoid those steps and go straight to the ratchet. Unless it is something super high torque like rusted frames or rear end parts. Then I'll use the 1/2in ratchet or actual 1/2 breaker bar.
I can't imagine anyone not having one in their tool box..
Using an actual "breaker bar" usually still doesnt get enough leverage, so I usually slip a pipe over them, break it loose, then switch to the ratchet. I usually avoid those steps and go straight to the ratchet. Unless it is something super high torque like rusted frames or rear end parts. Then I'll use the 1/2in ratchet or actual 1/2 breaker bar.
GeorgiaHybrid
Well-known member
I try to use a breaker bar in those situations but, when required, I will put a cheater on my ratchets. If the tool can't take it, it will break and get replaced/repaired. I don't do it often but there are reasons I have a 24" long 1/2" S80 and that every ratchet that I own has a metal handle and not plastic..... It's easier to put a pipe over the end...
Air wrenches first though.....I'm lazy.
Air wrenches first though.....I'm lazy.
not trying to be an ahole or anything, but are you sure you are turning it the right way? Before I do a BB, I triple check which way the threads go- as you know, some are reverse threaded. If I am positive I am turning in the right direction, I will actually "bump" it in the other direction, then in the correct direction to see if it will break loose. Also, heat, from a heat gun ( not too close- just want to warm up the bb cup area) may help loosen any locktite or adhesive someone may have put on the threads- with bikes, you never know. I have never needed more than a 15" breaker bar (never a ratchet) to do bbs, and I have done a few...