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using a torque wrench to tighten lug nuts

ebamba

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Jan 29, 2012
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I use a torque wrench too for peace of mind, but also cause I'm a bit **** retentive.

Hmm, did someone forget to tell race car pit crews that they should use a torque wrench on all the lug nuts during their speedy tire changes? They go way faster, for many miles, than we do on public roads! If they have specially calibrated air impact guns, it must be pretty rugged cause they throw those things around at times.
 
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zcar751

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Knoxville, TN
I am a big supporter of torque wrench use. I learned long ago that air wrenches go bad and mechanics are not as strong as they think they are.
When I first took over a commercial truck shop I walked out to see a mechanic putting axle nuts on with a hammer and chisel:scared: I ask him what the torque was and he didn't know, saying something like this is how we always do it. I made him get the torque wrench and torque it. The nut spun three more rotations, wasn't even close. Took almost a year and firing two mechanics to get them to use the torque wenches with out me standing over them.
 

coljar

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Belpre, Ohio
I've used a torque wrench on lug nuts since I was in the car business "back in the day" as my son and daughter like to say. That way I know where I'm at on each lug.
 

Jazz

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Newport News, VA
If you go to an Autocross event you'll see almost everyone there using torque wrenches. I'm guessing that ALL race teams use calibrated air guns. That being said, I'm guessing that most of these same people, when getting the tires changed on the family car don't worry so much. I've used my torque wrench because it's the longest ratchet I have which means I don't have to apply so much force to get the same torque.
 

NUTTSGT

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I usually run them tight with the impact, not letting it sit there banging away and do the final tightening with the torque wrench once it's one the ground.
 

lynnbilodeau

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Oklahoma
This is really easy.

Torque wrench on both alloy and steel.

1. So they won't be too tight.
2. So they won't be too loose.
3. So you won't warp a rotor or hub.
4. So you don't get runout in the wheel.

I worked at a GM dealer back when almost every car had steel wheels. I won a bet with a fellow tech who said torque to the lug nuts being uneven would have no effect on wheel run out. It does, and more so on a steel wheel than on the alloys. Barely measurable on the alloys, easily measurable on the steel wheels. We actually set up a dial indicator and tested it. Only way to know. Over-tightening (i.e. gud-n-tite) caused the most run out.

Torque sticks may vary slightly between one gun and another. Never tested it. But I did test the one at my brothers shop on MY impact gun that we use on all our bimmers. It is right on the money according to my Snap-On torque wrench.

As long as you are not way off one way or the other, the most important thing is even distribution. I would rather be 5 lbs. over than 5 under, althouth I doubt 5 under would result in one backing off.
 

Trey T

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It's a no brainier, it's highly recommended to use torque wrench. I've seen over tightened nuts only result in frustration and broken lug nuts when taking off. Replacing the studs or bolts (euros) is a lot time wasted, several hours. Not really worth the effort over saving 30seconds of torquing properly

Joust a no brainer, guys.
 

JimVonBaden

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Re: using a torque wrench to tighten lung nuts

Technically, lug nuts are supposed to be torqued to the manufacturer's specs. I've never done it and never had any problems.

A lot depends on the wheel and the configuration. Old steel wheels on a 70's car are nothing like composite or aluminum wheels on modern cars and bikes.

Example, my bike takes 60nm per lug bolt. The previous model takes 105nm per bolt. Less than 100 and the bolt is at considerable risk of coming loose!

Jim :cool:
 
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JimmyTheMonkey

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Atlanta, GA
Always use a torque wrench and torque to specs!! One of the Manu benefits is it's much easier to remove the lugs later. I have had to jump up and down on tire irons on the side of the road before. Not fun and a bit embarrassing!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free
 

sselander

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CT
You can pickup a Harbor Freight 3/8" or 1/2" torque wrench for under $20
These are perfect for this application.
 

chris142

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apple valley,ca
I run them down to about 40 ft lbs with a cheap 3/8 impact .then tq to specs with a tq wernch. Spec for most lugnuts is between 70-100 ft lbs which is not very tight.my 231 can double that easily
 

rburke65

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Canfield, Ohio
Re: using a torque wrench to tighten lung nuts

Can you imagine the big auto. mfg. NOT using a torque wrench on their wheels. Trust me when I tell ya, they know the torque on their bolts.
 

Lkdelta

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40 mi.east of syracuse
Re: using a torque wrench to tighten lung nuts

And, properly using and storing a torque wrench will not "ruin" its calibration.

then buy one of the torque adapters and use that to check your torque wrench

My experience has been that torque wrenches that are properly used and stored will stay in calibration for a long time.
Even my 8-year-old HF torque wrench is still within spec and it has been used quite a lot.

Sorry for the Hy-jack...
How do you properly store a torque wrench?
What is a torque adapter or where would I look for one that could show me?
How do you test a torque wrench to see if its in spec?
 

krdiesel03

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Farmington NM
Re: using a torque wrench to tighten lung nuts

Sorry for the Hy-jack...
How do you properly store a torque wrench?
What is a torque adapter or where would I look for one that could show me?
How do you test a torque wrench to see if its in spec?

You back off the torque setting to 0, that takes the tension off the spring, Also do not drop them or use them as a breaker bar.

http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-torue-adapter-68283.html

This is an example of a torque adapter, You set your torque wrench to 33%, 66%, and 99%, and make sure the setting on the wrench is close to what the adapter shows. It is a easy and quick way to test a torque wrench.
 

justin1795

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blue grass IA
was a requirment that everyone at the dealership used a torque stick. i have check them with a torque wrench and they are pretty close.
 

zmaxmotorsports

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Been using one of these and my fat *** standing on it for years,only wheel I ever had come loose was one installed by a tire shop with an impact.
 

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fsdogwood

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RTP, NC
Re: using a torque wrench to tighten lung nuts

I'm not going to ruin the calibration of my torque wrench on lug nuts.

The Harbor Freight 1/2" torque wrench that you can get for $9.99 should
be good for tighten lug nuts
 
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J Persons

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Jul 27, 2010
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Louisiana
My F 150 lug nuts requires 150 ft/lbs, there is no way that I can guess at that much torque, so I use a torque wrench. I can get pretty close on the ½" studs on my car at 80 ft/lbs when using a ½" breaker bar, but I still check them.
 

machine_punk

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Napa Valley, California
I just started rotating my own tires and wanted to do it right, so I decided to invest in a torque wrench. I know there are a lot of fancy torque wrenches out there and those are great for folks who use them every day. I needed a cheaper option.

I stopped by Sears and picked up their "beam" style torque wrench brand new for $25 (the beam flexes and moves the marker on an indicator). Nothing fancy about it, but I am confident in the fact it will stay accurate without needing calibration more often than I am likely to use it.

I use the impact wrench to spin off the lug nuts and just to "run" them back on. Then, I use the torque wrench to set the final torque. I drive about five miles and re-check the torque. Then, I take my next trip to work, etc, and re-check the torque. I suspect the last step is going to go away as part of my process, because I haven't had any problems at that point so far.

Kev
 

justin1795

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Glammers37

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Minnesota
I am a fleet manager for a bus company with several shops. We torque every wheel lug nut, and retorque them after a couple of days (or about 100-150 miles) we also have our torque wrenches calibrated yearly and document it. We train our techs annually on proper torque procedures and have wall posters with tightening procedures in every shop. If you wonder why, just look at a you tube video of a set of duals coming off a truck.
 

got2boostit2

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West of I275 & I94
Wow only one or two guys mentioned lug stud stretch leading to broken lug studs. Most instances I encounter are severely over tight. Yes on modern vehicles with flat wheel mounting surfaces proper lugnut torque is extremely important. Improper torque does contribute to lateral runout and brake pulsation complaints. In my experience.
 

Haveblue

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Feb 8, 2013
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kansas
There is no excuse for a tech to not use a torque wrench, or torque sticks on lug nuts. I dont have torque sticks.. I run them down with my impact at the lowest setting on the lift, it usually yields around 70 to 80 Ft. lbs...just a quick "blip" once they are equally run down. Then I torque to spec in a criss-cross pattern with my torque wrench set to spec, when I have the vehicle on the ground. You can change a tire alongside the road, and probably get it right...but as a tech..Im liable for the work I do.
 

KPSquared

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Hammering your tires on with an impact is hack. Plain and simple.

I've seen way to much wrecked hardware from monkeys in tire shops that get impact happy. The front right tire came off our F-150 about 20 miles from the tire shop with 3 busted lugs.

Its pretty simple to bust out the torque wrench and go over everything once. . . and then double check a couple days later.
 

Antique Engine

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Azle Texas
Technically, every fastener, not just lug nuts, has a torque spec. If you want to split hairs, you could use a torque wrench on your cup holder screws. Look on the internet for torque spec charts by fastener size if you can't find the proper torque value for whatever you're working on in the manual.
 

Thruxton

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Virginia
Well, I know this is overkill for most, but on my 928, and other cars I have owned before it, I run the lug nuts down by hand, because I want to be sure the threads are in good shape and adequately cleaned. Then I use the torque wrench in 2 cycles, half and full. I'm not preaching it, just doing it.
 

ptschram

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Sep 8, 2006
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Churubusco, IN
In the late '90s, I took my truck to the local Sears to have the rear brakes swapped as I didn't have time.

The service advisor called me with an astronomical quote that included replacing the front calipers, rotors, pads, etc.

I told him I'd taken my truck to have the back brakes replaced, not the fronts. He infomred me that he was required to do them all for liability reasons.

I calmly asked him if that liability extended to replacing parts that were new as I'd replaced the calipers, rotors, pads, hubs, etc the weekend before. It was an S-10 Blazer that ate front brakes ate an alarming rate-faster than any vehicle I've owned.

I suggested to him that either or the tech was trying to scam me and that i'd be there that evening to get my truck.

This was Monday. Wednesday evening, the right rear wheel broke free of my truck right after I had exited a local highway. that Saturday, the left rear wheel broke free.

I strongly suspect that in anger the tech had merely hammered my lug nuts back into place damaging them.

Yeah, I'm an advocate of torque wrench use.
 

P_I_Torque

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Tons of great advice here, great stuff guys. Fact is, using a torque wrench allows the user to manually apply the required finishing force / torque in a controlled manner. Make sure the threads are clean of rust, and never apply any grease or never seez to the studs (trust me I've seen it done many times).
 

GCncsuHD

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Salisbury, NC
on the side of the road w/ a flat the factory supplied lug wrench or a spider(4 way) w/ a little grunt is fine.
in any shop ive ever seen its just an impact.
yes on my own classic cars I have put anti-sieze on the stud and used a torque wrench.
Do you adjust your applied torque accordingly? You should reduce the torque spec by approximately 20% if you are lubricating the threads, the OEM spec is for dry threads. Using anti seize can produce a much larger tension on the stud for the given torque, which can possibly cause plastic deformation which may result in the lugnuts loosening over time or actually cause the stud to fail.
Tons of great advice here, great stuff guys. Fact is, using a torque wrench allows the user to manually apply the required finishing force / torque in a controlled manner. Make sure the threads are clean of rust, and never apply any grease or never seez to the studs (trust me I've seen it done many times).

:D



As for the OP, I typically use an impact to cinch it down, letting the hammer strike maybe one or two times, then go back with an impact for final tightening. On my wife's car this usually results in 1/4 turn or so till the wrench clicks, on my 1 ton trucks it usually takes about 1/2-3/4 of a turn till it clicks.

I have been a passenger twice now in vehicles that have lost wheels while going down the road due to overtightened lugs by an impact that have broken studs. It's not a fun ride.
 
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c_mccann

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All good info, I use a dab of anti-sieze as well and run the nut up and down once before reinstalling the wheel. No galling on the seat of the lug nut on the rim and no chance of a bad torque setting due to dirty or galled threads.
 

sanddan

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OMG OMG OMG lighten up ladies


I promise I use my torque wrench on my expensive Bogart wheels. The truck gets a gud-in-tite with the 1/2" breaker. Never had a loose lug, but everytime the truck goes for tires....the professionals leave them loose.

You still haven't explained how using your torque wrench on a lug nut will mess up the calibration.:evil:
 

Thruxton

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Tons of great advice here, great stuff guys. Fact is, using a torque wrench allows the user to manually apply the required finishing force / torque in a controlled manner. Make sure the threads are clean of rust, and never apply any grease or never seez to the studs (trust me I've seen it done many times).

I totally agree, except on one point- some cars REQUIRE anti-seize on not only the threads, but other parts of the nut, and the torque spec is given with that in mind - if you have anything even slightly exotic, RTFM!!
 

jethro29

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central delaware
I use a torque wrench every time I put on lugnuts,there is a spec for a reason.not to mention the dis-similar mating of aluminum rims and steel hubs and rotors,you can warp rotors,warp rims,cause run out or at the worst cause some one to loose a wheel.
 

Thruxton

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Just as an example (the 928 has aluminum lug nuts with a semi-spherical "calotte" - basically a non-fixed spacer that fits into a recess in the wheel):

Porsche 928 shop manual specs for wheels:

Installing and Removing

1. Always use a perfect-condition Special Tool P 300.
Other socket wrenches, wrench sockets or wheel bolt
wrenches may not be used. Impact tools must never
be used regardless of circumstances.

2. Lubricate threads and calotte with Optimoly
TA.

3. Always tighten nuts to specified torque of
130 Nm.
 

Junkman

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If you have steel wheels, and the nuts are over tightened, the tapered hole in the wheel where the nut contacts will get mushroomed out. Not a good thing when you have to buy new wheels. Now, I do all my own wheel changing as a result of this all too common problem of cheap labor at many tire shops.
 
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