Using cabinet uppers as a work bench?

[yossarian19]

The garage came with ~12' of cabinet uppers on the wall that I've since taken down. Rather than trashing them, though, I thought they'd make a useful cabinet / workbench along one of the walls.
The catch is that the floor slopes 3 1/2" in that 12' run.
So, hang them on the wall level & try to brace the area I put a vise (with a 3 1/2" gap under one end) OR leave them slanted (pretty obvious, with the leveled window frame above the counter) and screw them into the concrete as well as the studs?
Which way would you go?

 

[gahrajmahal]

Build a workbench frame with adjustable feet like everyone here does with the HF toolboxes. Then mount your cabinets inside giving you covered storage for everything underneath. For a vice mounted build heavy frame or mount it to the wall for stability.

 

[astroracer]

^^^This^^^
Build a frame under them. Level it from end to the other.
Or make them modular and put them on casters. That's what I do with salvaged base cabinets.

Mark

 

[why worry]

Uppers are a bit narrow for a work bench on the wall. If you put them back to back they would make a pretty nice rolling bench. If you do decide to mount them on the wall as a bench I would definitely build a tapered base to support them.
Dave

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

Rip a PT 2X4X12- from the 3-1/2" on one end, to zero on the other end.

But I really like the idea of using them back-to-back to make a mobile workbench/project table. Of course you have to have the space for the damn thing though!

 

[FullRaceMerc]

Yeah, build a tapered toe kick. Level on the top & scribed to the floor at the bottom.

 

[yossarian19]

Ok, so, anyone have tips for building a tapered toe kick? I'm coming up with free hand circular saw, or do some math and clamp down a guide.

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[ez-duzit]

Lay the 2X on the pitched floor. Snap a chalk line along it at the height you want the cabinet bases. Cut along the line.

 

[FullRaceMerc]

We would lay the toe kick material on the floor & shim or block it up so the top is level. Take a compass, set it to the height of the largest gap between the toe & the floor. Then use the compass to draw the line at the same distance off the floor all the way across. Once you cut on that line the toe kick top will sit level & the bottom will rest on the floor. Our toe kicks are typically 3/4" cabinet grade plywood. As for cutting, in the field a jig saw would begin the work. It would be finished right to the line with an electric hand planer, but we're doing fine cabinetry.

Our cabinet guys call a compass a scribe, since that is how they use it. This gives an idea of the concept.

 

[matt_i]

Since the backside of the kick won't be seen, screw it to another large piece of plywood with carefully chosen screw lengths that don't pierce the finished side. Freehand circular saw or jigsaw, use a low angle block plane to shave down any high spots you don't like.

 

[yossarian19]

In the end, I didn't have the tools / confidence / giveadamn to do it "right".
I screwed 2x4 cleats in to the studs & hung the cabinets level to the cleats. I'm going to use 4x4 / scrap lumber blocks & shims to support the cabinets underneath, trim to fit as discretely as I can get them, then rent a hammer drill & use some angle iron to attach the blocking to the floor.