using pegboard rather than drywall with insu

[Chris Adams]

My shop is about three weeks away from being finished and I am wondering about some insulation options.

My present garage has pegboard covering the walls. I have thousands of commercial quality peg hooks and have used them for years so I always want lots of peg area.

On the new shop I want to put insulation along one or two walls where the sun hits. I am not crazy about drywall, I have one wall dry walled in my attached garage and frankly, I would rather have pegboard on all walls.


Any thoughts on putting rolled paper backed insulation between the studs, stapling it in, then putting just peg board over it?

I have considered putting in drywall, then fairing pegboard out with one by twos, but I don’t want the extra cost, loss of room, to do that, if I can avoid it.

 

[JOHNMAN]

The way I understand it, the paper backed insulation really needs to be installed behind a fire-rated substance. The paper is flammable and should be covered.

I will not comment (much) about my dislike of pegboard, but as long as you are good with it, it really is none of my business.

 

[kbs2244]

I would go with the 1x2's
The cost cannot be that much and the extra space behind the pegboard will keep you from pokeing holes in the insulation.

 

[Richard Givan]

I like this idea. I think you might consider some sort of fairing to put the pegboard away from the insulation/vapor barrier (so the hooks wouldn't snag them). The cheapest 1" material ripped to 1 1/2" width and fastened to the studs would do. Even osb ripped to that width would work. I would also consider painting the pegboard white or some lighter color for light reflection and a bit of polish. You could put on a stripe and paint the bottom a different color as well.

You would certainly have a lot of storage options, and could still mount heavy items with screws through the pegboard and fairing into the studs.

 

[Chris Adams]

I was wondering about the flammable part on the paper. Sounds like it would be a problem.

Any other insulation that wouldn't be a problem with fire hazard?



Good peg hooks only go back one inch on install, so tearing wouldn't be a problem, in itself.


Peg hooks, sold at places like HD, are trash, are usually only useful for bending and dropping your tools.
The stuff I use is from a major autoparts chain from the 80's.

You can hang off a two inch peg-hook, and they come in 2-4-5-6-8-9 inch lengths.

You can support almost anything on them.

However, I can't buy replacements as I don't see them being sold anywhere anymore.
Good thing I have about 20 gallons of them...

 

[nathank]

This is exactly what I did in my shop.

Works out great!

It's peg up top and OSB on bottom. Stud wall with paper backed insulation in the studs.

 

[jacob]

JOHNMAN is right, you are supposed to have a fire rated substance covering paper backed insulation. If your shop is attached to your house I would seriously consider the fireproof material.

Just this week, in my town, there was a garage fire that threatened to take the entire house with it. Thankfully, firefighters were able to save the living quarters. The garage was fully drywalled, so it bought the firefighters extra time.

If your shop is detached, it can be argued that you are just risking the shop and contents.

I vote in favor or a drywall layer and furring strips behind the pegboard.

That's my opinion, and worth every penny you paid for it!

 

[Costner]

Go with the drywall. Not only is it an approved fire barrier, but it will also help keep your garage cleaner. The area behind pegboard can get full of dirt and bugs and eventually your insulation will be saturated by dust. On top of it if your insulation is sized properly for the stud bad, eventually you will put holes in it from the pegs.

Also, the drywall will prevent mice or insects from burrowing into the insulation along with numerous other benefits. Once you have the drywall up then you can fir out the pegboard with either 1x2s, 2x2s, or whatever you have laying around.

If you really hate drywall you could just use plywood or OSB for sheathing although that still won't qualify as a true fire barrier.

 

[Chris Adams]

Getting some good info here, thanks.

On various points, the garage is very detached from the house (50 feet) and not near any of my smaller buildings (7 feet), and the walls that need insulating are the far walls. The end by the other buildings, nearer the house, is very sheltered from the sun, my primary problem area.
Cost of peg board is 17 bucks a sheet (4 by 8).
I can put up pegboard by myself. Cost is 13 x 17 or 221 bucks.

Cost on Drywall, is 170 for drywall, 50 (?) for tape, screws, paint, mud. Plus cost of hiring someone to DO it as I can’t physically handle the drywall, plus faring strips (100 ?) Plus the 221 for the pegboardl.
So it’s a choice between 221 or roughly 1000.

Bugs, mice, etc. are not really a problem. Only kind of bugs I have a problem with in the shops are Black Widow spiders and they nest in corners, not inside walls.

Any kind of insulation that doesn’t require a fire wall to keep it from burning?

 

[Ray-CA]

I'd go with the drywall. Just tape and mud it (you don't even have to sand the mud down.) Don't paint it, your going to cover it with the peg-board right? Put up the furring strips (easy to find the studs since you haven't painted over the tape lines) and hang your peg-board. You can use 1x2's or rip down some osb for the strips and be done really cheap.

Ray

 

[Costner]

Code varies from one area to another, but most insulation requires some type of vapor barrier over it along with a fire barrier. I know that some cellulose or mineral wool products won't burn but your local building inspector may still require it to be covered so that might not help. Fiberglass itself won't really burn, but the paper coating on it is the problem, so you could always get unfaced batts.

You could check with your local building inspector to see what they allow, or if you don't care about being code compliant you can pretty much do whatever you want. I wouldn't recommend it, but it is your place so it is up to you.

 

[jacob]

You might want to look at foil-faced rigid insulation board. Polyisocyanurate rigid foam insulation is available at many home improvement stores. It may not have a full fireproof rating, but your shop is a good distance from your house. The foil facing can help keep the material from igniting from sparks generated from welding or grinding, so it may be more fire resistant than paper. The foil facing can help reflect the radiant heat from the sun. That is the reason you are wanting to insulate.

 

[Uncle Buck]

My shop is about three weeks away from being finished and I am wondering about some insulation options.

My present garage has pegboard covering the walls. I have thousands of commercial quality peg hooks and have used them for years so I always want lots of peg area.

On the new shop I want to put insulation along one or two walls where the sun hits. I am not crazy about drywall, I have one wall dry walled in my attached garage and frankly, I would rather have pegboard on all walls.


Any thoughts on putting rolled paper backed insulation between the studs, stapling it in, then putting just peg board over it?

I have considered putting in drywall, then fairing pegboard out with one by twos, but I don’t want the extra cost, loss of room, to do that, if I can avoid it.

My garage is detached from the house, so I was not so concerned about code or fire hazards as others here. I did exactly what you are talking about and never regretted it myself. In fact, I did not use sheet rock anywhere in my garage. I had a big stack of old paneling I had removed from the house so I just covered the walls, and the insulation with that. It never turned into any sort of issue for me, plus it saved me a ton of money.

 

[bjochman]

On my garage, i had a sheet of 1/2" drywall on the bottom (4'). I then purchased some 1/4" "fan fold" insulation and then 1/4" pegboard. These two added up to the thickness of the drywall so everything is the same width. The fan fold insulation also keeps the pegs from falling out of the pegboard. This all covered the insulation between the studs.

 

[Chris Adams]

You might want to look at foil-faced rigid insulation board. Polyisocyanurate rigid foam insulation is available at many home improvement stores. It may not have a full fireproof rating, but your shop is a good distance from your house. The foil facing can help keep the material from igniting from sparks generated from welding or grinding, so it may be more fire resistant than paper. The foil facing can help reflect the radiant heat from the sun. That is the reason you are wanting to insulate.

I use it in my largest shed.

At a buck a square foot it is sort of pricy, and it says right on it to not use it unless you cover it.
Same warning as on paper insulation.
Covered it in pegboard in the shed, and didn't worry, but then, I don't have electricity, sparks, in there as it is just storage.

 

[Chris Adams]

Code varies from one area to another, but most insulation requires some type of vapor barrier over it along with a fire barrier. I know that some cellulose or mineral wool products won't burn but your local building inspector may still require it to be covered so that might not help. Fiberglass itself won't really burn, but the paper coating on it is the problem, so you could always get unfaced batts.

You could check with your local building inspector to see what they allow, or if you don't care about being code compliant you can pretty much do whatever you want. I wouldn't recommend it, but it is your place so it is up to you.

They don't really allow you to insulate a garage here, unless it was done when the house was built. They 'strongly discourage' it.
I suppose they have good reason. They know most people are moving a family or two into any building that is insulated, so you have to do it very discretely.

Un-faced bats may make sense here.
Though I don’t' like to think about being close to the insulation without paper keeping that itchy stuff away.
A non-flammable non-fiberglass bat would make sense, but I’ve never seen that.
Is there such a thing?

 

[Chris Adams]

My garage is detached from the house, so I was not so concerned about code or fire hazards as others here. I did exactly what you are talking about and never regretted it myself. In fact, I did not use sheet rock anywhere in my garage. I had a big stack of old paneling I had removed from the house so I just covered the walls, and the insulation with that. It never turned into any sort of issue for me, plus it saved me a ton of money.

Paneling would be pretty good, but costs way too much to be practial.
Lucky thing for you having that left over.

The best kind of recycling. Just find a good use for the leftovers.