Using Portable Generator and Enclosed Trailer Safely

[racer8432955]

I'm looking to run 110/120v Ac into my race trailer from my portable generator. Generator is on a rubber tired cart. I am only looking to run low amp items such as one 4 ft. fluorescent light, and charge an occasional cordless tool battery, etc.

I do not want to wire in a panel and pull stranded wire thru conduit. Not a cost issue, but I am looking to upgrade to a larger fancy trailer in the next couple years. So I do not want to spend the time. But if its the only safe way, I will do so.

So, is it safe to run an extension cord from the generator to one of those say 4-outlet plug in job site type boxes (with the built in circuit breaker), or computer style power strip, and then run a couple low amp items off that? My biggest concern is the light fixture will be screwed to the metal frame of the trailer. If the incoming power (from the generator) is not grounded to the frame and the fixture faults wouldn't the trailer then become live, and first lucky person to touch anything metal become dead?

Thanks for any help, I'm obviously not a master electrician.

 

[matt_i]

A fuse is just as good as a breaker, just costs more eventually to replace.

You have to think that to be shocked by 120vac you have to be the connector/jumper from hot to neutral.

If the trailer frame goes hot you would also have to touch the neutral too. Most shoes would provide some insulation value.

 

[American Locomotive]

The generator is effectively an isolated power source, especially if no metal part of the generator chassis is in direct physical contact with the ground. If the fixture faults, the whole trailer could potentially become live, but it will only be live in reference to generator ground, not earth ground.

At most, someone would probably feel a tingling sensation and not much more.

 

[theoldwizard1]

EDIT :

For this type of use, the generator should be bonded ̶a̶n̶d̶ ̶h̶a̶v̶e̶ ̶a̶ ̶g̶r̶o̶u̶n̶d̶i̶n̶g̶ ̶s̶t̶a̶k̶e̶ ̶p̶o̶u̶n̶d̶e̶d̶ ̶i̶n̶t̶o̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶g̶r̶o̶u̶n̶d̶,̶ ̶p̶r̶o̶b̶a̶b̶l̶y̶ ̶2̶-̶3̶'̶.̶ ̶ ̶T̶h̶e̶ ̶c̶h̶a̶s̶s̶i̶s̶ ̶o̶f̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶t̶r̶a̶i̶l̶e̶r̶ ̶s̶h̶o̶u̶l̶d̶ ̶N̶O̶T̶ ̶b̶e̶ ̶c̶o̶n̶n̶e̶c̶t̶e̶d̶ ̶t̶o̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶c̶h̶a̶s̶s̶i̶s̶ ̶o̶f̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶g̶e̶n̶e̶r̶a̶t̶o̶r̶.̶

 

[American Locomotive]

OSHA states that if equipment is plugged into the generator using cord and plug, without a transfer switch, then a ground rod is not required.

 

[sberry]

Right, no rod needed. Don't over think this. Run a cord and a couple power strips if you need them, add a gfci if you want. Plug in a light or 2. If you have metal fixtures screwed to the trailer they will/should be grounded thru the cord.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

For this type of use, the generator should be bonded and have a grounding stake pounded into the ground, probably 2-3'. The chassis of the trailer should NOT be connected to the chassis of the generator.

None of that makes sense.

U most definitely want the trailer chassis bonded to the generator ground. This is so there is a low impedance fault current pathway. This is to prevent the chassis of the trailer from becoming energized. Which is the whole point of grounding...

And a rod will not provide any additional protection for fault current. Remember electrodes are for grounding lightning, limiting voltage to ground potential and grounding primary voltage if primary lines should contact secondary lines...

Why would the rod be only 2-3'?

Where did u get any of that info from?

Right, no rod needed. Don't over think this. Run a cord and a couple power strips if you need them, add a gfci if you want. Plug in a light or 2. If you have metal fixtures screwed to the trailer they will/should be grounded thru the cord.

An inline GFCI is perfect for this setup and would provide protection for personnel...

 

[rlitman]

...


An inline GFCI is perfect for this setup and would protection for personnel...

+2 That's the correct answer. GFCI between the generator and the trailer, and you're all safe.

As for the tingling comments about the trailer frame going hot, and only getting a shock if you touch neutral, that may be true IF you are standing on the trailer, but NOT if you're standing on the ground.

But anyway, stop overthinking this. Use a GFCI for it's intended purpose and you'll be as safe as it can get.

 

[mikegt4]

I was looking at a new trailer last month that had a low cost 120V electrical option. They had a small breaker panel mounted on the wall with a cord/plug that could be used to plug into an outlet or gen at the track. There was a removable cover over a hole in the floor for the cable to drop through. You could do the same utilizing a 4 square box with a couple of receptacles or a breaker box with some conduit and a couple of outlets spaced as needed.

 

[sberry]

You need a breaker if it is supplied from 30A service. From 20 not needed, it's wired like a pop up camper with a single circuit usually thru a 15A plug.
If one wires anything with multiple outlets it needs 12 cord and wire.

 

[Falcon67]

For this type of use, the generator should be bonded and have a grounding stake pounded into the ground, probably 2-3'. The chassis of the trailer should NOT be connected to the chassis of the generator.

This also makes no sense because you'll get asked to leave if the track sees you trying to pound a stake through an asphalt or concrete pit surface. Might work at a dirt track I suppose. At any rate, our current 3500 uses a shorting plug. I'm not using anything in the 6500, just a twist lock to RV adapter for the existing trailer. Plus extension cords as we wait for the new trailer with 50A service.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

This also makes no sense because you'll get asked to leave if the track sees you trying to pound a stake through an asphalt or concrete pit surface. Might work at a dirt track I suppose. At any rate, our current 3500 uses a shorting plug. I'm not using anything in the 6500, just a twist lock to RV adapter for the existing trailer. Plus extension cords as we wait for the new trailer with 50A service.

:

U mean bonding plug?

A shorting anything would and should trip the breaker...

And thats different than an electrode.

Bonding neutral to ground and grounding electrodes are 2 different topics often misconstrued as being the same...

 

[racer8432955]

Lots of good information here. Thanks guys

 

[Falcon67]

:

U mean bonding plug?

A shorting anything would and should trip the breaker...

And thats different than an electrode.

Bonding neutral to ground and grounding electrodes are 2 different topics often misconstrued as being the same...

Yes, bonding plug - messed that one up. The 6500 has a bonded neutral, per the manual.

 

[rburke65]

So where exactly are some of you people getting this info.?

 

[sberry]

Which info are you referring to? Most of it is basic fault protection, short circuit interuption.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

So where exactly are some of you people getting this info.?

and which info would that be?

 

[sberry]

I don't think he talking to us?

 

[Bill_b]

Why not just a battery (or connection to tow vehicle) and an inverter for that little bit of use? Or just some 12 v led strip lights?

 

[1redTA]

Why not just a battery (or connection to tow vehicle) and an inverter for that little bit of use? Or just some 12 v led strip lights?

I was wondering the same? If you have a 7 way plug you can run a wire to keep your battery ( in trailer ) charged when the tow vehicle is running

 

[Falcon67]

As above - we use a house battery and I put in a couple of real nice - large - LED RV lights I found on Amazon. Plenty of light without the genny hooked up. I can work on the car in the trailer with those lights. I mounted a cigarette lighter port on the side of battery box for charging phone with a car adapter. We run the genny because we have A/C, microwave, coffee pot, 200A battery/start charger, air compressor, etc. during a race day. Really for what you want, a deep cycle AGM, some LED lights and a small inverter would be plenty.

 

[sberry]

You could hook up a cord to a power strip no matter if it is inverter or genset, would let it use line power when available.

 

[Busflyer]

I'm trying to install the exact same setup as the OP, and I have searched far and wide but found no write ups or decent pictures for this style of install.

I have a 6x12 enclosed and would like to get some wiring done before I start finishing out the interior... I only have about 2 inches between the lite ply and the outside skin so enough room to run wires, but not enough to flush mount an outlet. I dont really want to run wire mold all over the place and make it look like do doo either. Ideas?

Lastly, what's the easiest, cleanest way to protect the circuit? Do they make small resettable circuit breakers that aren't designed to go into a breaker box? Thanks guys!

 

[Blk88GT]

I did my 24ft trailer in conduit. Lots of lights, room for expansion and inexpensive.

 

[sberry]

I'm trying to install the exact same setup as the OP, and I have searched far and wide but found no write ups or decent pictures for this style of install.

I have a 6x12 enclosed and would like to get some wiring done before I start finishing out the interior... I only have about 2 inches between the lite ply and the outside skin so enough room to run wires, but not enough to flush mount an outlet. I dont really want to run wire mold all over the place and make it look like do doo either. Ideas?

Lastly, what's the easiest, cleanest way to protect the circuit? Do they make small resettable circuit breakers that aren't designed to go into a breaker box? Thanks guys!

They make shallow boxes for an outlet and as for circuit breakers,,, not really. A common power strip has a breaker in it to protect the wire from use of the multiple outlets. If you are using number 12 wire, 12 cord and a common end plugs in to a 15 or 20 outlet you do not need additional breakers. The onlist time you need breaker is if you are adding 30A RV type service. A common pop up trailer is wired no breaker, got a single circuit in it. Its really a simple extended circuit with the protection from the source.

 

[sberry]

When I first started wiring and building I did all this stuff, today I have a lot more simplistic view, would get a cord, make some hangers out of the way, get a 3 way and hook up a couple power strips which I like, maybe one for constant and another with the lights plugged in to it so I had them switched.
You cant buy parts for the cost of it all and not committed to some deal that is built in, so easy to change and some of it can eventually be hidden a bit if it ends up mattering.