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using SS urethane on a toobox, need suggestions

boosteddsm92

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what paint to use on toolbox/cabinet?

I recently picked up a 59" high Lyon (think Vidmar, Lista) cab that needs to be refinished. I'm not looking to get crazy w/the whole thing, here's what I'm thinking:

-wire wheel rust off
-sand the whole thing w/a pneumatic DA using a low grit (not to bare metal, just to scuff the surface)
-wipe down w/xylene
-brush on a single stage urethane

Let me say that I'm a total noob at painting metal. I don't have a paint booth so I don't want to spray it and would rather not rattle can it either. I was reading that a single stage urethane from a marine store will flow/level well and hide brush strokes.

Any suggestions? Is the method above a viable one?
 
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Spudland_Dave

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I think your on the right track...where I would suggest changing would be the wipe down and application...
-Use a wipe down compatible with your end product. For example, I like the PPG Shopline stuff, so I use the JX101 W&G Remover....truth be told I use it even when rattle canning Krylon...handy stuff to have around.
-I'd spend a few bucks on a HF Spray gun and spray the Urethane on...you dont need to get fancy with 500.00 air dryers and such..its a toolbox, not a show car headed to Pebble Beach. Even if you "Mess up" and get a drip or run, it will probably still look 50x better then brushing on. IMO this is a perfect learning opportunity.
-Primer...after wiping it down, I'd prime it....
 

E.rodz

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spraying it would still be faster and look better to put some poly up and make a temp booth.however there are other options you can add a hardner to rustolem to give it better durabilty,shine and fade resistance.they also make a stainless look paint that looks pretty good to.if you decide to brush it use a quality brush with thin hair bristles do not use a foam brush if you use a hardner paint it will eat the foam brush.xylene might be to aggressive for the paint that is on the cabinet already minaral spirits works well for a degreaser. red 3m scotch brite pad works well for scuffing the paint to take the gloss off .
 
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boosteddsm92

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I do have a gun like this but I've never used it

spraygun.jpg


Would that work? How much mess is it going to make? Can I get by by just covering the floor?

For prep, I was thinking this.

For primer, I was thinking this.

For paint, I was thinking this. Is this something I can walk into a paint store w/and have color mixed in?

Am I over thinking this? Should I just setup a makeshift booth and spray Rustoleom primer and top coat?
 

Kevin54

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Do a search for brushing rustoleum. If you find the refridgerator thread on here about painting them up, you'll find the link to the other. Some paint with rustoleum with a foam roller and some will sand and buff afterwards. Some have painted cars with rustoleum and a foam roller that turned out halfway decent.

No doubt though that spraying with a gun and either base/clear or a single stage is really the way to go.
 

Kevin54

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BTW..,.Hey E.Rodz, while you're here, I may as well tell you.....get that video done and put up.:lol_hitti
 
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boosteddsm92

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I've never sprayed before and I probably don't want to get into that at this point. I think I'll just do what I've seen a lot of people do and roll on some Rustoleum primer and then a Rustoleum topcoat using a foam roller. I don't need it to look great, I just need it to look ok so this sounds like the easiest way to go. What I don't know is what kind of thinner do I use and how much? Same goes for the hardener.
 

Spudland_Dave

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I've never rollered paint with hardener...the whole point of hardener is to speed drying and well...harden the paint. I dont know if you'd have enough time to roll the whole thing....PLUS you gotta think about what it would do to the roller...pretty agressive stuff.
PERSONALLY, what I use all the time for my projects is PPG/Shopline Single Stage Urethane....and thats what I'd use. IF your dead set on Rolling it, I'd probably look at using a Acrylic Enamel instead...no hardeners needed.
No matter what, I wouldnt ever use anything but quality paint such as PPG/DuPont/Martin Senour etc.. a quart of DuPont/Nason Fast Dry Acrylic Enamel isnt that much more expensive then RustOleum, yet is 50x better.
My dad has a gun like that and has used it for years...I've got a 19.99 Gravity Feed HF gun that I like. See...I KNOW there are better guns out there, but for me, its an excellent gun.

Thinner & Hardner...all depends on exactly what paint you use.
 
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boosteddsm92

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Thanks for all the help. After reading the replies and cleaning all the tape the previous owner put on the cabinet and seeing all the rust on this thing, I'm now leaning towards putting KBS on it. I've used POR15 in the past w/great success. I guess I'll have to use a chemical stripper to get off all the paint, use the cleaner, use the etcher, and then put on the RustSeal. Has anyone here put KBS or POR15 on a toolbox/cabinet? Or used KBS at all?
 

Cougar67

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If you use POR15 just remember only to put it on spots that have active rust. If you put it on top of painted/healthy areas it will peel.
 

ears

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Google roll and tip. Mom's neighbor paints boats this way and it comes out fantastic. i rolled and tipped easypoxy on my center console it came out well for a first attempt from someone who didn't particularly care. The paint itself is very tough.
 
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