Using tempered hardboard for workbench top...

[RinOak]

Hi, I’m topping my workbench with two sheets of 3/4" plywood, then some tempered hardboard on top. Two quick questions:

1. Does the thickness of the tempered hardboard matter? While it’s typically available in 1/8” and 3/16” thick, a local place also sells 1/4”...didn't know if thicker was better?

2. While this is just a workbench for my miter saw and wood sliding around on top (i.e., no welding or liquids), I still feel like it would be best to coat the tempered hardboard to help protect it a bit. I know you can use anything — BLO, tung oil, wipe on poly, shellac, Danish oil, paste wax, etc. — my question is, does anyone have a photo they can share of how a tempered hardboard top looks when using any of these products? While it’s a cheap top, I’m still curious how it will look after treating…I can’t find a single example pic online.

Thanks so much

 

[Steve from Socal]

I don't have any pics but, I had a table made much like your discription for over 25 years. The top was 1/4 if I remember, my dad mde the table and we used engine oil on it to 'treat it' The top is very durrable and has just enough cushion like wood, the oil resisted water and other fluids but did transfer on some things. The oil would be applied and then buffed off. That was a semi-anual or so event in most cases. The top was applied with contact cement and no screws or nails through the top.

 

[lolaetype]

my question is, does anyone have a photo they can share of how a tempered hardboard top looks when using any of these products?

No picture but I used 3-4 coats of polyurethane on 3/16" hardboard, especially the edges, and it held up very well. I used semigloss and it made the hardboard a bit shinier and a little darker.

 

[tarmy]

I use plywood. Sorta like a metal top for welding. I want to be able to “tack” things down as needed. Plywood is easy to patch, toss when too damaged and keeps things from sliding around. Hardboard has its place….just not for me.

 

[cretedog]

Made this one out of a used solid core door years ago. 1/4" hardboard glued to the door and wrapped with 1/2" oak. Has worked out great. Only been re oiled once in 20+ years.

 

[jimkinney]

I have 1/4" hardboard over 2x's for my workbench. It's been on there for 40+ years. I attached with screws in case I needed to replace it.

 

[CJM8515]

5 years so far and no issue. yea it stained an absorbed some stuff but no real issues. its 1/4" hardboard

 

[Aaron_W]

I've used hardboard on several workbenches. I've generally gone with 1/4", both because of easy availability and bigger is better (plus its not much more expensive). I painted one bench top thinking it would add some protection. I'm still using that one, but wish I hadn't painted it. Hardboard is pretty resistant to spills, and allows stuff to slide easily.
Paint just made the top less slippery, adds no real "bump" protection and the hard board being damaged by spills just has never been an issue for me.
If I ever decide to again put any kind of coating on hardboard it will just be a wood wax like Johnson's (or whatever popular wax has replaced it if I've run out of my current supply).

 

[Skiff Builder]

Built one for daughter- 3/16" over 2x10 on 2x4 frame. All wood was from the " cull cart" at Depot- 70% off.

Made a wipe on poly from materials on hand-1/3 each of spar varnish, linseed, turp with a small shot of Japan drier.

Similar to others I have made. Use 22ga pin nails and edging to fasten top. Easy replace if needed.

 

[finn]

Mine looks like ****. I spill liquids and use brake cleaner, so it softens the tempered hardboard which then absorbs the liquids. I also have a 6” vice on the bench, so there’s a lot of metal filings and drill noodles embedded in the top.

Won’t ever use tempered hardboard again. This is the second go around for that bench. You’d think I would have learned when it needed the first rebuild ten or fifteen years ago.

I have some left over birch flooring I’m thinking of using for the next rebuild. It’s tongue and grooved as well as end matched. Probably look into some sort of clear epoxy coating.

Having said that, the tempered hardboard is fine if you are a woodworker, I suppose. Mine worked until the first toxic spill.

 

[RinOak]

Thanks so much for everyone's help. I do like the color/sheen of the photos @Skiff Builder posted...I don't believe turpentine is available in California where I am, but I imagine there are a number of wipe-on poly recipes that might produce similar results.

Going to some local lumberyards today for other reasons, but going to also see what they have...so thank you again.

 

[Shiftless]

I imagine there are a number of wipe-on poly recipes that might produce similar results.

When I did my wipe on workbench finish, I just grabbed an old can of oil based polyurethane and thinned it down with some mineral spirits until it was pretty runny. I didn’t even measure it but IIRC it was about 1 part mineral spirits to 5 parts poly. I don’t think the ratio is at all critical for that purpose.

Here is a pic of the bench shortly after I finished with the wipe on poly. When I found a piece of slightly used IKEA butcher block countertop for $30, I put that over my old banged up workbench top.

It’s better to use 3-4 coats like I did. After a few years of use, the bench doesn’t look nearly this good anymore.

 

[Skiff Builder]

Thanks so much for everyone's help. I do like the color/sheen of the photos @Skiff Builder posted...I don't believe turpentine is available in California where I am, but I imagine there are a number of wipe-on poly recipes that might produce similar results.

Going to some local lumberyards today for other reasons, but going to also see what they have...so thank you again.

I make the wipe on with Mineral Spirit also or even Naptha. Good luck - enjoy!

 

[ozyborn]

I just toss the hardboard on my benchtop and glue it down. As is. When it gets to "worked over" I pull and replace. Takes about 4-5 years for that.

 

[Shiftless]

I make the wipe on with Mineral Spirit also or even NAPTHA

Diluting polyurethane with Coleman fuel requires excellent ventilation. The smoking light is definitely OUT !

 

[kngelv]

Johnsons Paste Wax on my 1/4" hardboard bench top.

 

[Shiftless]

Johnsons Paste Wax on my 1/4" hardboard bench top.

You can’t get that wax anymore. Have you seen what tins of it go for on eBay?

 

[kngelv]

You can’t get that wax anymore. Have you seen what tins of it go for on eBay?

I just looked. I had no idea it was no longer made. I have about 3/4 of a can left. I'll have to be conservative with it. This bums me out. I used so much of it in the Army that the smell takes me back in time. . We buffed the barracks floor with it. We made a coat hanger into a handle around the can. Then we would light the wax on fire, cover it with a lid to put the flame out and then pour the melted wax in multiple spots on the floor. Next a buffing pad and then a clean towel. Our final touch was three or four small capfulls of alcohol buffed with the towel. We always thought it hardened the finish a bit.

James

 

[steves_001]

Shellack’d mine and happy with it. I don’t beat on the surface much but for a general work surface it’s held up well.

 

[finn]

Johnsons Paste Wax on my 1/4" hardboard bench top.

Not directly related to, but FYI, SC Johnson discontinued production of past wax at the end of 2021.

 

[Jgaz]

Made a wipe on poly from materials on hand-1/3 each of spar varnish, linseed, turp

I use this formula on my bench tops but substitute mineral spirts for turpentine.
My main woodworking bench


The left side of my miter saw bench and extra work surface

The hardboard top has been done maybe twice in 5 years and the main bench gets done as needed, maybe once every year or so.

 

[MoonRise]

I made a wooden workbench years ago, mostly for woodworking purposes. Still have it and use it.

Construction lumber frame, plywood top and 1/4" tempered hardboard on top of that.

The hardboard was given several coats of oil based polyurethane varnish IIRC, mostly to make glue drip clean up easier. The hardboard is not fastened to the bench but it is retained by gravity and some wooden banding stripes fastened to the plywood.

Not a hard use bench, but it has held up just fine. If/when the hardboard starts to look too beat up,I'll just flip it over and use the other face.

 

[rharman]

Can't get turpentine or mineral spirits in California anymore. Well, there is a California version of mineral spirits - haven't tried it yet.

I'd probably just get a polyurethane and see how that works.

 

[Aaron_W]

Mine looks like ****. I spill liquids and use brake cleaner, so it softens the tempered hardboard which then absorbs the liquids. I also have a 6” vice on the bench, so there’s a lot of metal filings and drill noodles embedded in the top.

Won’t ever use tempered hardboard again. This is the second go around for that bench. You’d think I would have learned when it needed the first rebuild ten or fifteen years ago.

I have some left over birch flooring I’m thinking of using for the next rebuild. It’s tongue and grooved as well as end matched. Probably look into some sort of clear epoxy coating.

Having said that, the tempered hardboard is fine if you are a woodworker, I suppose. Mine worked until the first toxic spill.

I can see that being an issue. Mine were mostly dealing with products of woodworking. I placed a sheet of 18 gauge steel over the hardboard on the bench I use for metal working.

 

[Stuart in MN]

Mine looks like ****. I spill liquids and use brake cleaner, so it softens the tempered hardboard which then absorbs the liquids. I also have a 6” vice on the bench, so there’s a lot of metal filings and drill noodles embedded in the top.

Won’t ever use tempered hardboard again. This is the second go around for that bench. You’d think I would have learned when it needed the first rebuild ten or fifteen years ago.

I have some left over birch flooring I’m thinking of using for the next rebuild. It’s tongue and grooved as well as end matched. Probably look into some sort of clear epoxy coating.

Having said that, the tempered hardboard is fine if you are a woodworker, I suppose. Mine worked until the first toxic spill.

I've gotten a lot of grease and oil on the tempered hardboard on my bench, without any particular issues. There are stains from the oil and grease but it hasn't come apart. I put a layer of tempered hardboard on top of my roller cabinet and put a coat of varnish on that (if I remember correctly I used Varathane), and it's held up pretty well with no staining.

 

[Shitbox]

Not for a bench but 1/4” tempered hardboard with oil based Varathane for floors:

Holds up pretty damn well. It will darken things a bit but negligible for my use.

 

[RinOak]

Thanks again for everyone's help. I "think" I may just go with Danish oil (in part because I don't want to wait 30 days for a poly to fully cure…and I also don’t want a hard finish that will likely chip), and was just curious: Those of you who've applied a penetrating oil to tempered hardboard...did you need to sand it first??

Google's AI would suggest that you do, but to me, this seemed like an unnecessary step that could also produce an uneven finish if it's not sanded very uniformly. I'd certainly prefer not to have to do this...was just curious if penetrating oils seep into to TH okay without sanding?? Thanks again.

 

[MoonRise]

Danish oil (or any oil finish) do not really have the same protection as film-forming varnishes like polyurethane varnish.

And the old rule of thumb for oil finishes was once a day for a week, then once a week for a month, then once a month for a year. And you are worrying about waiting for a polyurethane varnish to dry/cure?

No, I would NOT sand tempered hardboard before applying finish. Except to slightly break the edge corner on any cut edges.

 

[roc_on_the_rocks]

I use this formula on my bench tops but substitute mineral spirts for turpentine.
My main woodworking bench


The left side of my miter saw bench and extra work surface

The hardboard top has been done maybe twice in 5 years and the main bench gets done as needed, maybe once every year or so.

Really nice setup, I really dig the miter saw's dust collection!

 

[Jgaz]

Really nice setup, I really dig the miter saw's dust collection!

Thanks. There has been several new, improved(?) versions since that one.

 

[RinOak]

Well, all done. Just wanted to share a couple pics since everyone was kind enough to help.

Per Watco's rec, I lightly sanded the finish off the tempered hardboard and applied two coats of Danish oil. Also including a pic of the plywood glue-up since it was such a miserable task I had three separate sections of 3/4” plywood over 16'...I think I counted around 250 screws to clamp things together and 3/4 of a gallon of Titebond III.

On a side note, I haven’t used tempered hardboard much in the past and I understand it's not a high-end product, but I feel like what they’re selling nowadays seems far less durable (which...as the world goes, wouldn't be a big surprise). I got mine from a trusted lumberyard, but noticed it was the same “Eucaboard” brand they’re selling at HD. Oh well, we’ll see...hopefully things will fare well.

Thanks again to all and happy holidays.

 

[Skiff Builder]

Nice Work-great looking top!! Your second picture reminds me of a lot of boat shop layups- never enough clamps or drywall screws.

 

[jmarkwolf]

Hi, I’m topping my workbench with two sheets of 3/4" plywood, then some tempered hardboard on top. Two quick questions:

1. Does the thickness of the tempered hardboard matter? While it’s typically available in 1/8” and 3/16” thick, a local place also sells 1/4”...didn't know if thicker was better?

2. While this is just a workbench for my miter saw and wood sliding around on top (i.e., no welding or liquids), I still feel like it would be best to coat the tempered hardboard to help protect it a bit. I know you can use anything — BLO, tung oil, wipe on poly, shellac, Danish oil, paste wax, etc. — my question is, does anyone have a photo they can share of how a tempered hardboard top looks when using any of these products? While it’s a cheap top, I’m still curious how it will look after treating…I can’t find a single example pic online.

Thanks so much

My bench is made from two sheets of 3/4in ply glued and screwed together with a sheet of 1/8in masonite lying on top. I have 1in wide molding running the perimeter of the top to keep the masonite in place, If the masonite gets too ugly simply slide it out and replace it. But in 12 years that hasn't happened yet.

 

[Jim_No_Garage]

I picked up a metal framed lab bench at the curb 10+ years ago. The work surface was peeling laminate so I used a piece of 3/16" double sided tempered hardboard (smooth on both sides). I put some Ash strips around the perimeter and doble faced taped the top into place. I sealed the hardboard with 10 coats of Minwax wiping finish - it can be top coated in 30 minutes so the finishing took a day or so. It has some cuts/scratches after 10 years but it's in otherwise great condition.



I had to move some stuff off it to get this picture. The hardboard suffers from FSD (Flat Surface Disease). I don't know any finish that is resistant.

Cheers

Jim

 

[bmwrd0]

I use 3/16" hardboard over 2x4 base on a 2x4 frame. This version has held up for 8 years with no sign of needing replacement. I don't do engine rebuilds on it, and there is nothing flammable in the (basement) shop.