I found a gov't surplus auction that was unloading a decent amount of unused containers of solvent based acrylic road paint (super cheap). Thinking of getting some and doing my garage floor with it. Wondering if anyone had any experience and or thoughts about it.
using traffic marking paint for garage floor/driveway coating?
- Thread starter uc4me
- Start date
scooby074
Well-known member
Yellow floor? At least the dog could piss on it and no one will know
J/k I imagine it would hold up good considering the abuse it sees on the highway... but remember it gets recoated each year.
What colour paint? Must be wither white or yellow?
J/k I imagine it would hold up good considering the abuse it sees on the highway... but remember it gets recoated each year.
What colour paint? Must be wither white or yellow?
hdossett
Well-known member
Does it come in patterns other that stripes and chevrons?
scooby074
Well-known member
maybe mix in some black paint and see if you can make a gray? Id do a trial mix first to make sure there wasnt some wonky reactions
??? "solvent-based acrylic paint" ????
Solvent-based paints -usually- mean a solvent other than water. And all of the acrylic paints that I know of now use water as the 'solvent'.
(actually acrylic paints nowadays run the paint as an emulsion of water and then the acrylic binder and all the pigments and 'other' items in the paint. The water is there to pretty much keep the binder from 'binding' to itself and setting up into a solid.)
YMMV.
re: the color of the paint. If it is white, you can just get some tint/pigment (pretty much plain pigment with just a little bit of 'goop' to make it easier to handle and dispense). Either buy some tint/pigment yourself or get the paint store to dispense some for you. The "pigment" is pretty universal, it is mostly the 'goop' part that has to be compatible with the liquid part of the original paint. Or you can -probably- get some "artist grade" paint in whatever 'color' you desire and add that to your road paint to get the 'color' you want. Caveat of again using compatible chemistry between what you are adding and the original paint. The decent "artist grade" paints are a LOT of pigment and minimal 'goop'.
Again, YMMV.
re: buying 'surplus' auction paint. Could be an OK deal, or you could be buying containers of partially-solidified paint. Or paint that has been improperly stored (acrylic paint that has been left in freezing conditions for multiple freeze-thaw cycles) and is thus garbage. Or old paint that has other storage or shelf-life issues. Etc, etc. Again, YMMV.
Oh, and traffic-marking paint may or may not be all that durable believe it or not. It also may or may not be slick and slippery, especially when wet from rain and such. As I have experienced on foot and on bike and in cars on wet/damp raod paint. Especially when the paint crew has applied the paint ReallyReallyReally thick and not just 'dusted' some paint onto the area.
Solvent-based paints -usually- mean a solvent other than water. And all of the acrylic paints that I know of now use water as the 'solvent'.
(actually acrylic paints nowadays run the paint as an emulsion of water and then the acrylic binder and all the pigments and 'other' items in the paint. The water is there to pretty much keep the binder from 'binding' to itself and setting up into a solid.)
YMMV.
re: the color of the paint. If it is white, you can just get some tint/pigment (pretty much plain pigment with just a little bit of 'goop' to make it easier to handle and dispense). Either buy some tint/pigment yourself or get the paint store to dispense some for you. The "pigment" is pretty universal, it is mostly the 'goop' part that has to be compatible with the liquid part of the original paint. Or you can -probably- get some "artist grade" paint in whatever 'color' you desire and add that to your road paint to get the 'color' you want. Caveat of again using compatible chemistry between what you are adding and the original paint. The decent "artist grade" paints are a LOT of pigment and minimal 'goop'.
Again, YMMV.
re: buying 'surplus' auction paint. Could be an OK deal, or you could be buying containers of partially-solidified paint. Or paint that has been improperly stored (acrylic paint that has been left in freezing conditions for multiple freeze-thaw cycles) and is thus garbage. Or old paint that has other storage or shelf-life issues. Etc, etc. Again, YMMV.
Oh, and traffic-marking paint may or may not be all that durable believe it or not. It also may or may not be slick and slippery, especially when wet from rain and such. As I have experienced on foot and on bike and in cars on wet/damp raod paint. Especially when the paint crew has applied the paint ReallyReallyReally thick and not just 'dusted' some paint onto the area.
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tncatadjuster
Well-known member
The paint is designed to be sacrificial. It's designed to wear off and offer a new pigment for visibility. Not a good floor paint. If you clear over it, might work. But why would you try?
AlphaGarage
Well-known member
If it's anywhere near a saturated yellow - and it probably is - there is no way that you can modify yellow material to get to white - it's physically impossible. If you add enough tint you might get pale yellow, but the amount of tint that would require would probably have a negative effect on the chemistry of the coating.