Utica Tools display cabinet

[LesserSon]

Seems like he should be holding a Bendix brake tool.

 

[Private Lugnutz]

Snerk. Good one.

 

[d42jeep]

For some lucky folks...

You've got some similar water pump pliers waiting for you in the BB bag along with a Keen Kutter file.
-Don

 

[LesserSon]

Made a little progress today, filling nail holes. Tomorrow, a sanding and another coat of shellac.
But today, I discovered the 8” adjustable I’d bought, even though it stuck a little, is BROKEN! Arrgg! Well, that won’t matter unless I forget and try to use it.
I had decided to get 90-series wrenches, even though the display shows 91-series, because I didn’t want chrome. The pliers will be all oxide finish, too.

 

[Jaydb07]

Made a little progress today, filling nail holes. Tomorrow, a sanding and another coat of shellac.
But today, I discovered the 8” adjustable I’d bought, even though it stuck a little, is BROKEN! Arrgg! Well, that won’t matter unless I forget and try to use it.
I had decided to get 90-series wrenches, even though the display shows 91-series, because I didn’t want chrome. The pliers will be all oxide finish, too.

Here is interesting Utica pliers I found a few days ago; from 1945:

 

[LesserSon]

Very nice - love “patent applied for” on any tool!

 

[LesserSon]

Adhesive-backed dark red velour cloth came today. A bit darker than I thought; if I had it to do over, I’d get regular red instead. Even my own picture makes it look brighter red than in real life; it’s almost burgundy. Ah well, I could reorder and wait another month...but I won’t.
I’ll let it relax a bit (it was folded for shipping, though I thought it would be rolled). Then cut some plywood for the replacement backing.

 

[LesserSon]

Well, I finally convinced myself the color just isn’t right, and ordered a second sheet, this time in “red”. Should be here in a month.

Meantime, I refinished and reassembled the original parts. The lower hinge had a nail in it for a pin and was missing the ball cap and a screw when I bought it. I had a doner hinge stamped “Stanley”, which was too wide (and holes in wrong configuration) to simply replace the original. So I pulled the round ball plug and the pin from the Stanley and transferred them to the original hinge. Also a screw with the right head, though the threads continue right up to the head.

The back panel is still up in the air; I’ve got material to make a close copy of the original, except for the thumb screws. Whether winged or knurled, shouldered thumbscrews only seem available in sizes too short for the application. I may have to make my own, along with the retaining brackets. For those, I’m thinking of toggle buttons, sawn lengthwise, and drilled for the thumbscrew.
Alternately, abandon the original display pattern, and just make the back from heavier plywood, with the way simpler L-hooks you see in almost every other brand toolboard.

And I’ve resorted to a lot of eBay to source the tools. Expensive as hell, but finding them locally is far less productive than I had thought it would be. Twenty-four tools acquired, twelve tools to go (ten after tomorrow, hopefully).
Actually, I am going to need to make another display for extra eighteen Utica pliers I’ve bought just because they’re so beautiful!

 

[d42jeep]

Which tools are you still looking for? I’m pretty sure I have a few Utica tools left over from my WW2 stuff.
-Don

 

[LesserSon]

I am lacking the following ten tools.

21-6” round nose
22-5” short chain nose
22-6” short chain nose
39-7” heavy duty diagonal
86-6” duck bill

517-5” slip joint ignition
622-5” short chain nose side cutter
654-6” long chain nose side cutter
888-6” curved needle nose

90-6” adjustable wrench*I have substituted the 90-series adjustables (3-diamonds logo) for the 91-series adjustables shown in catalog, because I felt the black oxide finish was more pleasing than chipped chrome, and more harmonious with the black oxide finish that was standard on ALL the other tools.

In most cases (except for the 888-6” curved needle nose), I’ve seen them on eBay, but preferred to buy less-common models appearing at the same time. I have also preferred to acquire the diamond-texture grip handled versions (even though they are generally not the correct era for the display case), but this has been particularly difficult with the diagonals and chain nose pliers, so I have settled on smooth handled versions.

 

[LesserSon]

Which tools are you still looking for? I’m pretty sure I have a few Utica tools left over from my WW2 stuff.
-Don

Too bad about the 517-10”. I JUST paid more than I wanted for an identical pair, which unfortunately have a torch mark and some PO’s ID numbers engraved near the Utica number.
I like those 1033-6” especially the one on the right, with the flat-topped 3s. Mine are later (Utica USA). Same with the 41-5”.
Update: the two pliers that missed the previous photo-op did arrive. 50-6” and 1300-8”, both featuring square-cutoff depressed diamonds textured grips typical of the late 1920s to the 1940s.

 

[LesserSon]

I’ve been fighting respiratory viruses since December 23, but since the true “red” fabric arrived on Friday, figured I had better get something done on the replacement back. Photo shows glue-up with spring clamps hokding it together. Trying to keep it flat, despite some of the plys wanting to curl.
I think the original was suslended by three screws through the middle horizontal reinforcement. I’m copying the entire original, but adding a bevelled bracket at the top (and bottom, in case I ever want to hang it so the door swings the opposite way). Next I’ll drill holes for thirty-two #8-32 T-nuts, and seal the back panel with shellac. Next will be to adhere the fabric and install the back onto the case. Finally recreate the two sizes of toggles. Sure wish my case came with at least one. Ah well, gotta be creative.

 

[notlob]

Here are most of my Utica pliers - I think I have at least one on your missing list. Let me know if you are interested in any of them.

 

[LesserSon]

Wow, thanks! I’ll look through them.
I noticed this came up on eBay, if anyone is interested. Looks like it’s had a life. Needs finish, missing the toggle/clips, knob is a replacement. I haven’t gone through the whole thing, but one item looks like battery pliers, which is not original contents.
I still think it’s cool. Kind of wish it was closer and cheaper.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/173744882248

 

[LesserSon]

Arrgg! Setback: the original back panel had a layer of mat-board behind it, which I felt contributed to moisture and odor retention. I thought I could skip it. But the nominal-1/4” ply I used allows the T-nuts to protrude on the interior/finish side. I see a couple options.
I can glue (or not) a piece of mat-board to the back of the panel, padding it out. Downside is, the T-nuts would more easily pop off the back (my original had not a single one remaining). The upside is, this is the most like the original configuration.
I can laminate the velour to a piece of mat-board in front of the back panel. This has an advantage of allowing the back panel to be replaced entirely (should it need it), without having to purchase more velour.
I can just adhere the velour as I originally planned, and let the T-nuts protrude. This option gets the project done ealier, cheaper, and with less fuss lining up holes through multiple layers.

I think I’m favoring option two, as it affords the most opportunity for further refinement. I don’t really understand why the original maker didn’t do it that way.

 

[LesserSon]

Delays, delays, delays!
Been waiting for my closest Home Depot to replenish their #8-32 T-nuts. I had envisioned just walking in, buying eight 4-packs, and wrapping this project up. No dice. App says they have four packs in stock, but it’s wrong.
Last night, with snow in the forecast and expecting a little downtime, my daughter and I headed to Lowes, which only had 1/4” T-nuts, and then a different Home Depot (pic). I’m reminded of local contractors picketting HD when it opened, and shortly afterward local hardware stores closing, leaving few alternatives.
I may check out an Ace, True Value, or Tractor Supply, but none are as convenient. eBay prices are only competitive with HD in bulk, because of relatively flat shipping costs, and I simply won’t need more after this project.
The local shortage of the SPECIFIC size I chose to use (because it’s the same thread size as typical cabinet knobs, and their ubiquitous truss-head screws) has me puzzled, though.

 

[LesserSon]

So...Ace had seven 3-prong T-nuts in stock. Priced $.10 more expensive each than the 4-prong Ts at HD. So, I found an eBay sale of 25 3-prong Ts and ordered them. No doubt the HD will replenish before mine arrive, but I just hate being this close to done yet stuck in retail limbo. The 4-prong are like the original and I suspect they might hold better, but I just want to move on.

 

[LesserSon]

eBay T-nuts arrived tiday. On the plus side, they are heavier gauge steel, with wider base (and thus wider-set prongs). On the down side, the internally threaded tubes are also longer, so they will penetrate the backboard even more than the 4-prong Home Depot ones.
Well, two options suggest themselves: grind the longer tubes to the same length as the shorter ones (does not address prong length), or pad the back even more, and just accept that the smaller T-nuts are more recessed.
These are what I measure for overall height among those I’ve bought:
Ace 1/4”
Home Depot 5/16”
Parts Plus More 3/8”
Update: I finally DID find the right ones at Lowes. Sold in packs of two, they were by far the most expensive per unit, almost twice the HD’s price. On the other hand, they are VERY similar to the ones I got on eBay, though not quite as tall. I used them to bring the total up to 32. Then I went to HD and saw they had finally restocked theirs. If they had done that weeks ago I would have bought all of them, as they seemed to best match the shadows of the originals. Oh well, what’s done is done, and I have confidence the ones I used will do the job.

 

[d42jeep]

I found these three Utica tools in my extras and it looks like the one on the left is a 39-7. Do you still need it? Did you ever receive the water pump pliers I sent?
-Don

 

[LesserSon]

Yes, I’d love to have the 39-7!
NO, I did NOT receive waterpump pliers...I’ll check my PM to make sure, but I’m pretty sure I gave the correct address.
Update: yes that was the correct address. Drat! They were nice.

 

[d42jeep]

I'll send the dykes out tomorrow.
-Don

 

[LesserSon]

Thanks, Don. They arrived, looking good.
I finally got the back assembled to my satisfaction and hung the cabinet. Sorry, there’s not much scale without the pliers in it. I’m going to make some trial brackets out of poplar tomorrow. If they behave, I’ll make 32 in two sizes. I have some oak I thought I would use, but, while it would match the cabinet, it would probably distract from the pliers. So maybe all of them from poplar, or, if I don’t have enough of that, cherry. I know that sounds ridiculous, but I think I really do have more cherry than poplar right now.

 

[LesserSon]

I spent some time analyzing where the brackets have to go to grip the various pliers. There appear to be only two sizes originally: 24 shorties that grip near the pivot and 8 longies that grip mid-handle. The long ones seem reserved for pliers where the overlapped halves construction would tend to make gripping near the pivot unstable. The brackets seem otherwise interchangeable. But the thickness, widths, and especially the angles of the handles vary quite a bit. Starting to think springy sheet metal may be the only material that would be strong and flexible enough to accomodate all the styles. I cleaned off my table saw while I thought about it. Hmm...
Still, I am getting there on amassing the pliers!

 

[LesserSon]

So here’s a fabrication experiment in pine. Final fitting with rasp. Learned center hole should be drilled before cutting out the reliefs to avoid chipping out the central triangle.
It ain’t purty, but it works.
Update: tried a design variation using the same material and tooling. Still thinking wood may not be the right material.

 

[LesserSon]

In a way, I acquired the last pliers I need to fill my box yesterday. The 888-6 bent-nose pliers were painlessly priced, but I still hesitated, because some PO decided to try making snap-ring pliers out of them. Only one jaw stood up to this modification, leaving me three options: leave them as found, grind both to equal stumps, or grind them to a new taper, albeit shorter than original. Caution tells me to go with choice 2, which still leaves 3 as a future option, but satisfies my desire to “do something” about them.
The other three acquisitions are a bit better: a 1950-8 with “US” WWI/Interwar stamp, and legible forged-in “patent applied for” (Was it ever granted?) inside the handles, a 7-1/2” slipjoints with flush rivet and a nice 3diamonds stamped on the jaw and forged inside the handles (these are my second pair, and neither has a model number, nor can I find them in the three catalog pdfs I have access to - they're similar to the 513, but with shear cutters instead of the usual side cutters), and a 1000-8 Button’s pattern with H.F. Kelleman’s inside-the-jaws dual wire cutter patent date and the early 3ovals in slab font letters forged inside the handles.
I also picked up a second 90-12 adjustable. Still searching for a 90-6 in good condition at the right price.

 

[LesserSon]

Still thinking wood may not be the right material.

THANKS to MrsLesserSon (ever alert for ways to make me more useful), I was able to borrow a small 3D printer. My new material is PLA. I am aware this may prove too brittle in the long run, but it’s working for now.
My first CAD attempt is going to fit about half the plier patterns. I’ll have to make modified versions for the rest.

 

[Private Lugnutz]

Wow. That is going to look sooooo danged good, and I admire the degree and sophistication of your dedication to this project, LS.

 

[LesserSon]

Hmm. The first generation of cleats is too broad. Keep interfering with each other, and distract from the pliers themselves. Redesigning a more modest version (top arc).

 

[Farmer J.]

It looks much better with the smaller cleats. Great thread this one, been following along but not much to add as Utica pliers somewhat unusual here.

 

[chstrumpetdude]

Like a **** chorus girl line, right there!

 

[LesserSon]

Woo-hoo! it’s done, It’s Done, IT’S DONE!
...
Now to start working on something for the 32 Utica pliers that didn’t fit...

 

[JoCoSawdust]

That's incredible work LS. I'm speechless.

 

[Farmer J.]

Wow, that turned out great. What a wonderful result you have from all your effort, it's great to look at and will be surely be a source of interest to all who see it. Well done, and thanks for sharing the process with us.

 

[3baygarage]

Beautiful. That’s something to display proudly.

 

[r_olson_06]

Woo-hoo! it’s done, It’s Done, IT’S DONE!
...
Now to start working on something for the 32 Utica pliers that didn’t fit...

Well done sir. Well done.

Sent from my XT1710-02 using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[thehorse13]

This looks like the right crowd to show this cabinet to. There is a high end antique mall pretty close to my house and every so often I torture myself by browsing the place.

Today I was dispatched there to examine a slag glass lamp for Mrs. Horsey and while I normally eat lunch before running errands, thankfully I didn't this time. I would have lost my lunch when seeing the 500 dollar price tag on this thing.

It is a store display and it does open. It's made of metal and has beautiful graphics. There are no tools inside and I didn't feel like having the guy take all of his trinkets off the top because I wasn't a buyer.

 

[Private Lugnutz]

Wow!

 

[LesserSon]

Geez, that’s cool!

 

[Oldtuleguy]

Very nice. That is why I stay out of antique malls.

 

[d42jeep]

Here is a pair I found on Friday that I hadn’t seen before in Utica. LS, do you have these?
-Don