Any idea how to tighten up?
Screw is bottomed out
Screw is bottomed out
Last edited:
Utility knife blade carriage too loose
- Thread starter 1190R
- Start date
finn
Well-known member
Hit the end of the screw with a grinder to shorten it up.
30 second repair.
30 second repair.
Spareparts
Well-known member
Their Cheap, toss it and get a new one, lot cheaper than a trip to ER for stiches
Good idea Finn!
rlitman
Well-known member
Aren't you missing a spring?
No spring
Finn is spot on with the idea to shorten the screw. I'm at work so no access to grinder but wedging some paper between the two halves of the handle allowed me to get some friction on the carriage
Works like new now
cmandp
Well-known member
Do the two halves touch each other with the screw tightened?
The end of the blade holder with the button should have a t-shape to that locks in the notches on the body halves.
The end of the blade holder with the button should have a t-shape to that locks in the notches on the body halves.
CraigStu
Well-known member
Throw it out and get a folding knife style. They are so much better you will wish you did it 5 years ago.
Many of them carry 4-5 spare blades in the handle. This tiny gerber is my pocket knife. A really nicely made knife for cheap.
Many of them carry 4-5 spare blades in the handle. This tiny gerber is my pocket knife. A really nicely made knife for cheap.
whateg01
Well-known member
I have folding knives for some stuff but working one handed, a retractable blade is much easier to use.
As asked above, is the case closed up when the screw is tight? Or does the screw bottom out before? Can't tell for sure from the video but it looks like the case has no gap. If that's the case, I don't know what you think would be gained by tightening the screw more. Take a pic of the knife with the blade in place but one side removed.
Each brand has some differences, but the little t shaped section at the back of the carrier should engage the notches in the case. That usually means the little thumb thing is sticking up so you have to press it down to clear the notches. It looks like the thumb thing is bent downward on op knife. Here's an example of how it normally sits proud of the knife body.
As asked above, is the case closed up when the screw is tight? Or does the screw bottom out before? Can't tell for sure from the video but it looks like the case has no gap. If that's the case, I don't know what you think would be gained by tightening the screw more. Take a pic of the knife with the blade in place but one side removed.
Each brand has some differences, but the little t shaped section at the back of the carrier should engage the notches in the case. That usually means the little thumb thing is sticking up so you have to press it down to clear the notches. It looks like the thumb thing is bent downward on op knife. Here's an example of how it normally sits proud of the knife body.
Last edited:
CraigStu
Well-known member
The folders I have all operate w/ a single thumb button and gravity to open and close. And the blade never slides back by itself because it can't.
Codyboy
Well-known member
There has to be a spring , maybe not a coil type but could be a flat spring. Has to be something in there that pushes up on the lock to engage the detents in the body.
I've never seen one that relied on friction.
I've never seen one that relied on friction.
finn
Well-known member
I have both styles, but doesn’t everyone?
I usually reach for the retractable blade type, except if I’m going to be carrying it in my pocket, in which case the slimmer folding blade is better.
I like the barrel grip of the retractable blade knife, plus, I don’t seem to misplace them as much as the smaller folders.
I usually reach for the retractable blade type, except if I’m going to be carrying it in my pocket, in which case the slimmer folding blade is better.
I like the barrel grip of the retractable blade knife, plus, I don’t seem to misplace them as much as the smaller folders.
whateg01
Well-known member
Hit it hard enough with the hammer and they'll have to get a new one
Looks like a Stanley self retracting knife model 10-189 I think. The spot where the blade carriage attaches to the spring breaks after a few years of daily use. These should be covered under warranty but my local big box stores no longer carry this model.
Last edited:
whateg01
Well-known member
I've never seen a retractable knife that relied on friction to keep the blade extended. How are you going to be able to overcome the friction to retract the blade but using the knife to cut through a thick box won't do the same? Smh
the thumb tab will have a flexible "spring" so it pushes into build in detents, thus locking the blade in place.
I'd like to see pictures of it opened up. the screw mysteriously getting too long isn't making sense to me. I've worked with those kind of knifes a good part of my life and worn out more than I care to try to count .
edit. I just watched your video, the screw too long is not your issue. the mechanism is fubared and not locking
Last edited:
Beerhippie
Well-known member
Bend up at the arrow:
so the T end engages the slots:
or just buy a new one.
so the T end engages the slots:
or just buy a new one.
The thumb button is the wrong shape for a locking blade. Likely self retracting.
Beerhippie
Well-known member
You mean like every time you push on the blade it retracts? I've had a few like that, but only for long enough to find a responsible place to throw them away.
I have a half-dozen styles of various brands of ute knives around the brewery. All have a locking mechanism of some very simple type--like the Stanley 99E in my pictures above.
It would make things easier if the PO had shown more of the knife than just the Stanley logo.
NoahG
Well-known member
I also have the third style: fixed blade
Attachments
whateg01
Well-known member
I don't think the fixed blade version is applicable to op dilemma
finn
Well-known member
I have a Stanley fixed blade with rather elaborate engraving, probably from my grandfather’s tool assortment from the 1920s or 30s. Remarkably, it still has the little spring steel blade protector that clips on the blade.
I’m reluctant to even use the knife because it’s a foregone conclusion that I’ll lose that little guard.
No, because folders ****. They're pretending they're a real knife, and not a pretty limited slicing tool. of course, some people disagree with me, but that's their problem.
Codyboy
Well-known member
Ha , took pics of mine and got busy, forgot about this thread.Bend up at the arrow:
so the T end engages the slots:
or just buy a new one.
First 3 pics are a Stanley which has a flat spring.
The other pic is a popular mechanics and has a coil spring.
Regardless, there is some type of spring in there, as has been mentioned.
Attachments
I've not seen a Stanley knife with a coil spring. actually don't recall ever seeing a utility knife with one. interesting
Beerhippie
Well-known member
New one for me, too.
Codyboy
Well-known member
Reading comprehension.
The Stanley has a flat spring steel.
The Popular mechanics one has the coil spring.
Reread what I posted.
I actually hate the PM knife as its a awkward 45° handle. It looked cool when I bought it 20 years ago or whenever but not really user friendly.
The Stanley has a flat spring steel.
The Popular mechanics one has the coil spring.
Reread what I posted.
I actually hate the PM knife as its a awkward 45° handle. It looked cool when I bought it 20 years ago or whenever but not really user friendly.
Beerhippie
Well-known member
Not questioning you--especially since you posted a fine photo--just that I've never seen one. I have several brands, but all seem to be either Stanley or Stanley knock-offs.
Ohio Andy
Well-known member
On many occasions I had found a retractable blade versions with the tip of the knife still poking out. I've never been cut that by it but I have found it many times... So I switched to using a flip open variety that allowed me to do it. One-handed.
This is my go-to
That one is made by SK. I might find it opens and closes good enough but it's not insanely expensive.
I tried four other brands and I don't remember them off hand. One was nicer but it cost a lot more.
I do know I have a civvy, but to change the blades requires in the Allen key. And that's just annoying. So even though it's really nice I just don't use it. I don't even remember how to close it. It's probably a liner lock which defeats the one hand open closed.
This is my go-to
That one is made by SK. I might find it opens and closes good enough but it's not insanely expensive.
I tried four other brands and I don't remember them off hand. One was nicer but it cost a lot more.
I do know I have a civvy, but to change the blades requires in the Allen key. And that's just annoying. So even though it's really nice I just don't use it. I don't even remember how to close it. It's probably a liner lock which defeats the one hand open closed.
rust in the eye
Well-known member
As stated in post #15, this is a self retracting blade knife. I had the same one, hated it and gave away.
This one is broken, clamping the case halves tighter wont cure it.
IMHO toss it and buy a 77 if you want retractable blade.
This one is broken, clamping the case halves tighter wont cure it.
IMHO toss it and buy a 77 if you want retractable blade.
Beerhippie
Well-known member
This is my favorite style of Stanley knife:
I bought it when I was doing a lot of asphalt roofing. You change a LOT of blades cutting asphalt shingles and this one has:
no screw to drop when you're clinging to a 12/12 roof!
I've worked with a couple of crews where everyone had this knife.
I bought it when I was doing a lot of asphalt roofing. You change a LOT of blades cutting asphalt shingles and this one has:
no screw to drop when you're clinging to a 12/12 roof!
I've worked with a couple of crews where everyone had this knife.