Utility trailer bi-fold ramjp gate.

[koditten]

I have been promising myself to do this build thread for some time. This bi-fold ramp gate goes with my other trailer builds I have posted in this section.

Here is a couple of pics The first is where I start and the last is what it looks like finnished.

Hopefully I don't bore anyone.

Thanks

KO

 

[koditten]

Since these gates are a bit heavy, I like to build them on the trailer where they will end up. I use the trailer top rail as a work bench. The top rail is actually wider than the gate. I just tack weld some scrap 2 x 4 tube to give me a sutable "work bench".

The width tof the gate is the same as the inside demensions of the sides. In my case 3" less. I use 1.5 x 1.5 tube, 14 gauge. My sides on this trailer are 20". I made the gate frame ends 19" because the hinges will raise the gate up 1". The gate will be close to the same as the sides.

The fist half is tacked together at this point. Because I'm lazy and in a hurry, i use the trailer itself to square the gate frame. Once the first half of the frame is welded solid, I use the already built half to make a mirror image second half. You will see that in the next pics.

I included a better pic of my "bench", the pics in the first post don't show it as well as this one.

KO

 

[koditten]

At this point, I have 2, exactly the same gate frames. Even if the gates are a bit trapazoidal shaped, it won't matter. The frames are exactly the same.

I take the top frame and fold it forward. This will allow me to get ready to weld in my hinges.

KO

 

[koditten]

Here I have welded the hinges in place. The hinges come with a pretty good primer on them. I try to grind off the paint where I have to weld the hinges. Sometimes I don't get it all off and it shows in the welds.

The hinges are just heavy duty door hinges. I get mine at Lowes. About 4 buck each.

I have trimmed off the extra hinge material at times, but I don't think it is a big deal to leave it overhanging.

You all are welcome to critisize my welds.

KO

 

[koditten]

At this point the gate is starting to become functional. The gate folds smoothly, with no binding.

I just "eyeball" the hinges when I weld them on. If the hinge is not quite parrallel to the gates, you can have some binding. This one works like its sapposed to.

KO

 

[koditten]

At this point I can weld in my expanded steel supports. I just used some 1" angle iron for these supports. You can use whatever you like as long as it is not thicker than the 1.5 x 1.5" tube steel. You just need a place to tack weld the mesh to.

It is up to you on how many supports you want to put in. This trailer is going to haul lawnmowers, so I made the supports the same width at the tires. Don't ask me what the width is, I already forgot.

KO

 

[koditten]

Here is the expanded steel being checked for fit. I can now weld the mesh to the frame. I only show one pic, but you weld both mesh pieces to the gate frames.

I buy my mesh precut. Because it is cut with a big *** shear, the edges are EXTREAMLY sharp. I spend a lot of time hammering down the "hooks" that can lace you open. I then take the surface grinder to the edges. Take your time and find all those sharp edges. There will be a lot of them. Remember, the gate will be completely exposed, so anyone walking by the rear of the trailer could cut themselves pretty easily.

KO

 

[koditten]

Here is a pic of my hinges. If you looked at my other threads, you have seen these before. Nothing more than some 1.5" x1/8" band iron with 1/2 holes drilled in them. You can see the Locktite residue on one of the hinges.

I weld them at no particular intervals. What looks uniform is where they are welded.

The last pic shows the hinges welded in place. The gate is actually backwards. I need to rotate it 180* before I can weld it to the trailer frame. This point is the most difficult part. the gate is pretty heavy. If you have a second person to help you position it, it might be a good thing. The gate is kinda floppy and is hard to control. It can be done by yourself, but think ahead. there are some pretty good pinch points that can get you.

KO

 

[koditten]

Here I'm getting ready to weld the gate to the frame. I just eyeball the gate to the back of the trailer. If both sides are even and the gap along the gate and the back of the trailer frame is parrallel, you are good to go.

I use jack stands to support the gate before I weld the gate to the frame.

KO

 

[koditten]

You can see in the first pic that the completed gate has a pretty good sag. Not very appealing in my opinoin.

I just use some 1/2" nuts tack welded across the top of the gate. These nuts act as a spacer and keep the gate from over flexing. Cheap and easy. Plus, if you want additional tiedowns, you can screw in some eye bolts. I have a couple of customers that like to haul their canoes with this setup.

KO

 

[koditten]

Here is my down and dirty tail gate locks. Nothing fancy here. 3 pieces of 1 1.5" band iron with a hole drilled thru all 3 pieces. the most expensive part is the pins.

Thats how I build the bi-fold ramp gate. This is the most user friendly setup for utility trailers. The long gates are nice, but they grab the wind at hiway speed something fierce. These gates are the best of both worlds.

Thanks for looking and all questions are welcome.

KO

 

[Case IH]

Looks great! What are the specs on the hinges? They look kinda light weight to me?

 

[koditten]

I knew someone was gonna ask about those hinges. All I can tell you from memory is that they are the same hinges that are used on solid core doors. I did have a pic, but for some reason I cant find it.

I've used these same hinges for loading up X-mark type mowers and battery golf cars. They seem to hold up just fine. Of course, i can't take into account what every customer is going to load. I just tell the customers that if they wonder if the gate is strong enough, just put a couple of jack stands under the hinges.

KO

 

[Spareparts]

I use a simular hinge on doors and where the tabs are bent around the hinge pin I put a good spot weld there, really makes them stronger

 

[V-10 Killer]

You can see in the first pic that the completed gate has a pretty good sag. Not very appealing in my opinoin.

I just use some 1/2" nuts tack welded across the top of the gate. These nuts act as a spacer and keep the gate from over flexing. Cheap and easy. Plus, if you want additional tiedowns, you can screw in some eye bolts. I have a couple of customers that like to haul their canoes with this setup.

KO

Pretty nice setup
The eye bolts thing is a nice idea too. It's always handy when you have something a little longer than the trailer you have to haul.

 

[W_A_Watson_II]

Nice setup, kind of the same approach I took on my side by side trailer. I haul a RZR 800, 170 or a Golf Cart with mine (other than the misc. loads).

Will
My "Transmission Job" & Stroker Build (JeepForum)
My "Transmission Job" & Stroker Build (My WEB Site)

 

[koditten]

bump, again

 

[Joe69]

Those spacer nuts between the ramp halves will dimple in under a heavy load and will no longer be effective. Just my .02.

Joe

 

[koditten]

Bum, bump.

Kirk

 

[koditten]

Bumping for others that have asked.

 

[ghiradelli777]

What type of pins/latches do you use to hold the ramp onto the trailer?

 

[koditten]

I don't always use the same pins. The ones in the pic are just 3/8" drawbar pins or linch pins as some people call them. I get them from Tractor Supply.

 

[ghiradelli777]

You build the hinges yourself or buy?

 

[koditten]

The hinges are just heavy duty door hinges. $5 each. I get the primered ones, grind of the paint and weld them on. I only eyeball the location of the hinges. Make sure you leave a gap between the 2 gate sections, this allows the gate to fold completly flat.

 

[koditten]

Hey Chocolate man(ghiradelli?), how about a little info about yourself? we don't need SS#'s just something general, general location, quick info about hobbies, skill levels, you know whatever. You never know, you could be talking with a guy or gal who is in the next cubicle.

Take a look at my profile, I got a lot of random stuff in there to look at. Just click on my profile name and it takes you to the profile page.

Believe me, I'm betting this site will be one of your favorites to spend time on.

Later

KO

 

[ghiradelli777]

Do you use the same hinges on the base of the gate? Not the folding part.

 

[koditten]

Those are just pieces of 1/8" x 1 1/2" band iron with 1/2" holes for a bolt to go thru. I think if you go thru one of the other build threads it show it.

 

[ghiradelli777]

Alrighty. I saw the pictures just wanted to make sure I was seeing it right.

 

[koditten]

So which trailer are you gonna build? Going to post pics as you do it?

KO

 

[ghiradelli777]

I retro fitted an old boat trailer with a rail and wood decking. Just wanted to figure out the gate/ramp setup.

 

[koditten]

Cool, I love taking and giveing something a new purpose.

 

[ghiradelli777]

just got the frame painted up - will post pics whens its dry

getting the PT lumber dried out before putting it on the deck

 

[koditten]

Way cool. Im actually finishing up a 5 x 10 ute tráiler, taking a beer brake before I install
My own bi fold gate too.

Cheers

KO

 

[ghiradelli777]

do you get your mesh from the a steelhouse or lowes type store?

 

[koditten]

Steel supply houses are the place to go.

 

[koditten]

I 've been getting ?'s asked about my trailers, thought I would bump my build thread.

 

[Bsj04]

I found this thread the other day and built a ramp very similar to this today. I found some hinges at tractor supply that worked great. They are flat hinges so you can **** the 2 ramps together before welding and not have to add those nuts you used to keep the ramp from over extending. Also had different several different sizes, I used 5-3"x3" hinges so they don't over hang my 1.5" sq tube.

If the link doesn't work they are; National Hardware, plain steel, surface hinges.

http://m.tractorsupply.com/webapp/w...&storeId=10151&searchTerm=Surface+hinge+plain

 

[koditten]

Good find. I'll have to check them out, they are half the price I pay for the heavy duties I usually use.

I put those nuts in place for the obvious reason to keep the ramp from over extending. Over time, a gate without those will develope a sag, just something cheap to keep the customer happy as long as possible. I can't build a gate as strong as the rest of the trailer, you would never be able to lift it. One of the sacrafices I'm forced to do.

Later

KO

 

[Bsj04]

The 3" 3.5" and 4" all used the same thickness material, looks like 1/8". I didn't really look at the ones smaller then that. I went with the 3" so I didn't have any overhang and just added an extra hinge to make up for the less width of each. I also used another tip from this thread and tacked all the hinges where they wrapped around the pin to hopefully keep them strong. I've looked at a lot of your trailer build, thank you for taking the time to post pics and info.

 

[shortykorte]

Thanks for posting. I had a 4'x4' ramp on a small trailer. At hwy speed you could feel the drag so I always wanted to attempt the bifold. Now that I'm repurposing a boat trailer this is timely.
Since there is a only 1.5 perimeter frame, do you think lighter, smaller or angle could be used at the bifold? How much weight are the two pieces of tube at the bifold?