Utility trailer refurb

[vavet]

I have a 5x10 utility trailer. The wood decking and sideboards have seen better days. I know there is some rust through on some of the cross members underneath the decking that will need to be patched. I don’t have a welder.
I’m thinking it would be worthwhile to sandblast/media last the whole thing while the decking is off to eliminate the rest of the rust and identify the weak parts so it can be appropriately patched.
Then it will need to be repainted. Then it will need to be redecked. The tires need to be replaced.

At some point this becomes a bad idea financially and the scales tip in favor of buying a new one. I don’t mind DIYing it, but I don’t have a welder and don’t have anything to do the blasting. A HF sodablaster or media blaster isn’t terribly expensive and maybe makes sense for this one time job, although my 25 gallon compressor is probably inadequate for this job and would require a lot of breaks to allow the tank to refill.
I’ve used a sandblast cabinet, but never done it outside of a cabinet. Is it a learned skill or is it just a matter of aim and squeeze the trigger? Will a HF unit be adequate or just frustrating?
Soda blast or other?
I can find a local person to weld/patch it for me.

The worst case scenario would be getting the decking off, getting it blasted, and then deciding it’s not worth patching.
Then I’ve invested a lot of time and bought a blaster and the media just to walk away from it and still buy a new trailer. The best would be figuring out the underlying frame isn’t too bad and can be patched.

 

[Spareparts]

Tip it over and have a good look at it and make your decision

 

[Paco Pena]

Before I'd spend a dime I'd check out the metalwork. If its a major fix I wouldnt bother myself. You have to decide if you are trying to save money over the cost of another or new one or if you are looking for a project. I'd also ask myself how much use I get out of it. Your time, your dime.

Paco

 

[Bert_]

You are going to have way more time wrapped up in this thing than it's worth. I wouldn't even consider sand blasting.

It might make sense to patch what needs it and put on a new deck. If it's that big of a deal hit the visible parts with a wire wheel and brush on some implement paint. Paint on the underside gets chipped up within a year anyhow.

As far as tires what does it take? I wouldn't keep a little trailer unless it took common car tires. Something with a 14" rim would be perfect. The little tires don't hold up and cost more.

 

[Junkdrawer Dog]

If the framework is comprised, it's probably not worth fixing. Cut it up for scrap and move on.

 

[Krash Kadillak]

IMO (Remembering I'm not the one who's project it is....), this would be a FANTASTIC project to use to:
1. Acquire new equipment for your shop, and
2. Learn new skills to be used for OTHER projects down the road, and
3. Have pride in the fact you restored the entire trailer BY YOURSELF.

Yes, you most certainly will have more money invested in it when done than if you had just bought another trailer, but you gain the skills, knowledge, and equipment.

If your budget can take a hit, go for it.
...................................................................
EDIT: After reading the other posts, I would agree that you would have to take each step as it goes, media blasting first to see IF the frame is worth saving.......

 

[bobcatdan]

Considering a new 5x10 trailer isn't terribly expensive, I'd sell the old trailer and buy a new one. Be sane with the price and it will sell quick. Add the money you would spend on a new deck, sandblasted and paint, that is a pretty good dent towards a new one.

 

[garandman]

Rebuilt an old boat trailer that was unique to the boat. Including sand blasting the whole damned thing. A buddy had the setup, I supplied the labor. It was awful. Then you have to repaint it, redo bearings and seals etc.

When I rebuilt my HF trailer I wire brushed the rust, sprayed it with neutralizing primer and repainted. But it was pretty much cosmetic. Still a surprising amount of work for a $350 4x8 trailer.

Now I buy aluminum....

 

[KEH]

I rebuilt a 4 x 8 steel bed trailer I had first built years earlier from steel I had scrounged. I had the bottom sand blasted at a cost of






I rebuilt a 4 x 8 steel bed trailer that I had built years earlier from scrounged steel. I had the underside sandblasted, cost $100.

KEH

 

[ezover]

figure 150 tires, 75 lights, wiring, connectors, 125 wood, bolts, 40 paint. so 400 before any stripping and repairs.

since you own it, I would take the decking off do some clean up on it and see how much steel needs to be replace.

make sure you use a quality mask if you do the blasting yourself. I would just take some 40 grit on a 4 1/2 inch grinder and do it.

 

[iagsxr]

You can't even think about refurbing that small of a trailer for what you can buy a new one for.

If it's usable at all someone will buy the one you have now.

 

[darwyn]

I did one last year. Awful is spot on, would not do that again.

Rebuilt an old boat trailer that was unique to the boat. Including sand blasting the whole damned thing. A buddy had the setup, I supplied the labor. It was awful. Then you have to repaint it, redo bearings and seals etc.

 

[gm54210]

The advise I took from the GJ hive - "It's a utility trailer. It's going to get buggered up, so just touch it up as needed."

 

[vavet]

OP here...I did some investigation on my trailer. The serious rot is pretty well isolated on the one crossmember that is rectangular tube. The perimeter frame is rectangular tube as is the tongue, but the rest of the lateral crossmembers are angle. There is surface rust but it doesn’t seem to be bad.
So maybe it is worth refurbishment. Whether I farm out the blasting or buy the equipment is TBD but if I can find a local place to do it for a reasonable price then I’ll probably do that.

 

[vavet]

I forgot the pics.

 

[Bretny]

Square tube always rots out from the inside. Look for another trailer with either angle or C channel for your next one.

In the mean time take the ball pean end of a hammer and start banging the frame. If it makes a big dent its to thin.

 

[mike93lx]

If it is that rotted anywhere, other parts are not far behind.

I would replace the trailer.

 

[bradpac]

Looks like time for a new trailer, put that sucker up for sale on the old interwebs and see if someone else wants a project and buy you a new one.

 

[Honest Bob]

People seem to have luck selling similar trailers on craigslist for $10 less than what they cost new.

 

[SteveH-CO]

To me, you should do this project if you want to learn metal prep, welding, etc. These skills can later be used to restore that project vehicle of your dreams. If you don't care about such skills, ditch it and move on. The beauty of a project like this, is that you cannot hardly screw it up - and your first-timer shabby welding is hidden by boards!

 

[Jeff Ivers]

I forgot the pics.

Your second picture would cause me to walk away from refurbing this trailer. A few years ago, I refurbed a 5x8 tilt bed that I had. It cost about 1.5 times the cost of a new trailer to refurb. However, I had the frame sandblasted and powder coated and upgraded the wheels to polished aluminum. Ended up with a much nicer trailer than I could buy. My frame had no perforations, just some bubbling of the finish in a few places.

 

[Downwindtracker 2]

When weldors want a good laugh, they have a look at the new trailers at HD.

 

[chicken89]

To me, you should do this project if you want to learn metal prep, welding, etc. These skills can later be used to restore that project vehicle of your dreams. If you don't care about such skills, ditch it and move on. The beauty of a project like this, is that you cannot hardly screw it up - and your first-timer shabby welding is hidden by boards!

i recently acquired a wire welder so i could learn the basics of welding, and a spot sand blaster... i also have a cheap HF trailer i got for free that will need some work. i haven't seen any rust yet, but i can practice welding small pieces onto the frame- tie downs for example. this will be a great item to learn little things on that i care too much if i mess up

 

[vavet]

OP here, reviving an old thread.
I'm on rotating furlough weeks from my job right now, so I'm catching up one some homeowner tasks. I took the trailer to a local lawnmower repair shop that I went to last week because he also repairs Ridgid power tools. The guys seems like a legit dude just trying to eek out a living. I asked him if he knew anyone who would do some welding and patching on a utility trailer. He said he'd be willing to take a look at it, so I dragged it over to his shop yesterday. He pointed out there are a lot of thin spots around the whole frame and reccommended I strip the decking off to get a good look before making any decisions, but his initial estimate was that it would need 3-4 hours of work from him. At $85/hour, that doesn't brake the bank, but it's still a 27 year old trailer with a rusty axle, even if the frame is repaired...and even then, the rust is still there, just not as bad. On top of that, it would need ~$200 in new wood for the decking and that's if I put in the labor.
I contemplated buying a mig or flux core welder and teaching myself because I figured I could buy the stuff for the same amount I would pay the dude to patch it for me.
I figured while I contemplated the options, I could throw it up on Craigslist and see if I get any nibbles. I had several responses, many of them flaked or just wanted to know the "best price" before coming to look at it. I had one guy show at the appointed place, but 30 minutes late. He paid my full asking price $600. He said he's starting a lawn care business. He didn't know much about connecting a trailer. I sensed he was a little uncertain, so I asked if he wanted me to show him how to connect it to his vehicle. He was appreciative.

SweetK30: if you're reading this, I passed along your tip about routing the wiring harness through the coupler latch pin loop to help prevent forgetting to connect the wires or install the coupler pin.


So now I have to figure out what to do for a trailer. I really liked the 5x10 size of my old trailer. I could survive with a 5x8 or even a 4x8 as long as I had a provision to allow my riding mower deck to hang over the sides since it has a 50 inch deck. I figure my options in ascending order by price are:
Get one of the HF units? I could have a brand new HF, fully decked out unit for less than I sold the old trailer for.
Big box store trailer?
Northern Tool has an aluminum trailer frame kit. Even in kit form, it would be more than the big box store trailer for equivalent size and would certainly be more work since I'd be adding the decking, stake pockets, etc.
Local trailer dealer?

 

[mike93lx]

OP here, reviving an old thread.
I'm on rotating furlough weeks from my job right now, so I'm catching up one some homeowner tasks. I took the trailer to a local lawnmower repair shop that I went to last week because he also repairs Ridgid power tools. The guys seems like a legit dude just trying to eek out a living. I asked him if he knew anyone who would do some welding and patching on a utility trailer. He said he'd be willing to take a look at it, so I dragged it over to his shop yesterday. He pointed out there are a lot of thin spots around the whole frame and reccommended I strip the decking off to get a good look before making any decisions, but his initial estimate was that it would need 3-4 hours of work from him. At $85/hour, that doesn't brake the bank, but it's still a 27 year old trailer with a rusty axle, even if the frame is repaired...and even then, the rust is still there, just not as bad. On top of that, it would need ~$200 in new wood for the decking and that's if I put in the labor.
I contemplated buying a mig or flux core welder and teaching myself because I figured I could buy the stuff for the same amount I would pay the dude to patch it for me.
I figured while I contemplated the options, I could throw it up on Craigslist and see if I get any nibbles. I had several responses, many of them flaked or just wanted to know the "best price" before coming to look at it. I had one guy show at the appointed place, but 30 minutes late. He paid my full asking price $600. He said he's starting a lawn care business. He didn't know much about connecting a trailer. I sensed he was a little uncertain, so I asked if he wanted me to show him how to connect it to his vehicle. He was appreciative.

SweetK30: if you're reading this, I passed along your tip about routing the wiring harness through the coupler latch pin loop to help prevent forgetting to connect the wires or install the coupler pin.


So now I have to figure out what to do for a trailer. I really liked the 5x10 size of my old trailer. I could survive with a 5x8 or even a 4x8 as long as I had a provision to allow my riding mower deck to hang over the sides since it has a 50 inch deck. I figure my options in ascending order by price are:
Get one of the HF units? I could have a brand new HF, fully decked out unit for less than I sold the old trailer for.
Big box store trailer?
Northern Tool has an aluminum trailer frame kit. Even in kit form, it would be more than the big box store trailer for equivalent size and would certainly be more work since I'd be adding the decking, stake pockets, etc.
Local trailer dealer?

After having a 6.5x10 for many years, I've figure out that the 10' length is incredibly helpful, but 6.5' wide is larger than I need, although the visibility is great when backing up.

My next will either by 5x10 or 5x12.

 

[NUTTSGT]

See if you have a Griffin trailer dealer near you. I bought from a fairly local dealer and I was impressed with him so far in my dealings. He even asked me if I wanted a job or to buy a retirement job.

 

[zr52002]

I think a 5x10 is about the perfect spot if you don’t have room/tow vehicle to keep a 16-18 ft car hauler type trailer around. Doubly so if it’s a flat bed with stake pockets.

Unfortunately, I’m finding it really hard to find such a thing. Most of 5x10 trailers you see are built super cheap, and rely on a top rail for strength. I’d rather have a flat bed and stake pockets so I can have real sides or not - but just having a rail is annoying a lot of the time.

If you find something good, please share. Starting to feel like I may need to just **** it up and build my own.

 

[mikeinri]

My vote: Local trailer dealer.

I bought my Anderson trailer over 15 years ago. I've replaced the tires and lights once each (upgraded to LEDs and haven't looked back). Pulled the jack apart last year to clean and lube it. It could use paint, but has been extremely reliable.

It's a 6x10, with a gate/ramp, 15-inch automotive tires and a 2x10 PT deck. I also added the amber LED clearance lights to the front of the fenders, I recommend that highly; otherwise, the trailer is invisible behind you at night (to you and others).

At the time I bought this, a friend had just bought one at HD. I looked at those, hated the mesh decks.

Went to a local trailer dealer, and was floored by how much stronger this thing was, and the price was only about $100 more than the cheap HD version. I still wish I'd spent another $150 for the 12-foot version.

I originally bought this to take my lawn tractor to my parents' house each fall for leaf duty. Since then, this thing has hauled (actual) tons of firewood, tons of mulch, several other tractor purchases, and moved us, my sister's family, and my parents between houses several times. Not to mention assorted trips to Lowe's and HD for building supplies over the years.

Don't take my (or anyone else's) word for it. Go to HD, Lowe's and/or TSC, then head to a trailer dealer and see for yourself. Make the decision that makes you happiest.

Be sure to post pics of your new toy!

Mike

EDIT: Adding pics of mine...

 

[mike93lx]

This is on my shortlist.

https://www.bigtextrailers.com/30sv-single-axle-vanguard

I had some mesh sides on mine for a while and loved the comfort it gave me that nothing could come out on the road. I also have a roughly 3' high stake body, which has been great for clean outs and big dump runs, so I would likely add something similar to that one.

The biggest thing that it is missing from my current is a long tongue. I have a straight section on my current trailer that almost let's my completely jackknife it. Super useful when backing into a really tight spot, like where I park it on the side of my driveway

Here are a couple pics of mine from a few years ago. Since then, I replaced the deck, removed the mesh, and repainted it. One of the best things I did was to flip the axle for more ground clearance. It now doesn't scrap when leaving my steep driveway