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UV lights for AC dye.

2ndGearRubber

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Dye has been working better than usual lately. I'm looking for a superior light solution for seeing it easily, IDEALLY without yellow glasses but I know they do help contrast.


I have a cheapo amazon unit that just eats batteries, AA, which isn't a size I normally have in bulk. I also have a small Matco "pocket COB" style light, but it covers a very small area and washes out easily in the shop lights. I'm guessing it's an EZRED product.


I want to look at one of those, see how big of a spot it can check. Obviously a larger lit viewing area means less time to check things. What is everybody using?
 
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RedneckWelder

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I use a Streamlight Stylus Pro UV light but the cheap Amazon light my coworker got for $20 fluoresces better depending on dye type (AC vs engine oil) with its two different wavelengths. Downside being it’s a cheap unit probably similar to what you are trying to get away from. Depending on the circumstances he doesn’t need glasses, I need glasses with mine.

Finding a bright UV light seems to be a real struggle.
 

rockettauto

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A lot of the stuff marketed for blood tracking will be much brighter and cover more area. The downside is they , like most tend to be like 415nm range ( still much better than the usual 460nm sold for auto use) . UV pigments light up intensely under 370nm there's a lot of good stuff that does 365nm.

A 365nm 20w light will make a massive difference.

I don't really get picky on brand since we're talking $20-40 for most of these, with being rechargeable.
For the most part though it's kind of a choice between the two, you can get some powerful blood tracker lights, or less powerful but in the proper band light, usually not both at the same time.
 

toolenthusiast

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I can heartily endorse anything that Olight makes. I keep eyeing the Olight Arkfeld UV, but I honestly don’t do enough dye testing to justify it. It has a 1000 lumen white LED next to the UV LED, so you could use it as your main pocket carry flashlight when you need to peer down into engine bays et cetera. It has a Z-shaped clip so you can attach it to your pocket but also easily click it onto the brim of your hat. (I’m getting old enough that I like to have some extra light for soldering or crimping even when I’m at the workbench.)
 

InjectorService

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So I know NOTHING about what UV light to buy, but it sounds like there is some interesting information on what wavelength light to buy. Anyone have the coles notes on that?
 

rockettauto

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So I know NOTHING about what UV light to buy, but it sounds like there is some interesting information on what wavelength light to buy. Anyone have the coles notes on that?
"Dye absorption — there are three primary types of light used in UV fluorescent leak detection. However, each has a different wavelength and is absorbed differently by UV fluorescent dye.

UV (365 nM) is responsive to all dyes.

Violet (400 nM) is compatible with all A/C and coolant dye, and some fluid dyes.

Blue (450 nM) is compatible with all dyes with the exception of extended life coolant dyes."


But what youll see in flashlight types are pretty dependant on available LEDs.

So you get 365,395,415,460 as the most common. IME the higher the wavelength, the weaker the fluorescence but it's also cheaper and easier to produce more light.

Eg. The UVbeast v3 goes up from $60 to $80 for selecting a 365 vs a 395.

The closer a UV pigment is to flourescing red....the lower the chance is it will work well with the higher numbers. (Invisible red barely works at all over 370) so the orangeish universal stuff for oil, gas ,etc is night and day with a 395 vs a 460.

It also creates a unique problem for the flashlight builders as most plastic lense material is made with UV inhibitor that filters below about 420nm optimally.

I had to paint a mural sene that appeared differently in blacklight. The room was set up with fluorescent tubes and half the bulbs in the fixtures were blacklight. When the switch was flipped to blacklight the whole scene changed...... Took a while to figure out the lenses had to be swapped to egg crate style because every available plastic lense was filtering out the wavelength that many colors responded to.
 
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2ndGearRubber

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Why not use an electronic refrigerant leak detector?

I have one, a good one, and an ultrasonic leak detector. They are but one tool in the box.

Detectors do not like breezy environments with air moving. Guess what there's a lot of in a shop? I test easily accessible areas with the detector, plus the valves, dye charge and let them go. Trying to check a condensor through the slots of the grill is a PITA.
 

CGarage

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I have one, a good one, and an ultrasonic leak detector. They are but one tool in the box.

Detectors do not like breezy environments with air moving. Guess what there's a lot of in a shop? I test easily accessible areas with the detector, plus the valves, dye charge and let them go. Trying to check a condensor through the slots of the grill is a PITA.


I have a friend of mine who built a successful business around only working on automotive HVAC systems.

He swears by the electronic leak detectors and reaches for this tool first when doing diagnostics.

I brought my truck to him which was not cooling properly.

5 minutes later, he identified a bad condenser. And yes, he used the electronic leak detector through the front grill without issue.
 

setfocus

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I've got an ultrafire UV flashlight, cheap china flashlights that use those generic LED drop in modules and an 18650 batt. Bought on amazon. Seems to work well, so long as you're not out in the sunlight or brightly lit shop. Don't need yellow glasses or anything. It's a straight up black light, will make white clothing glow or see the uv strip on money.

I hate those lights the tool trucks sell, more of a blue light and need the glasses for the dye to pop
 

RedneckWelder

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So I know NOTHING about what UV light to buy, but it sounds like there is some interesting information on what wavelength light to buy. Anyone have the coles notes on that?

"Dye absorption — there are three primary types of light used in UV fluorescent leak detection. However, each has a different wavelength and is absorbed differently by UV fluorescent dye.

UV (365 nM) is responsive to all dyes.

Violet (400 nM) is compatible with all A/C and coolant dye, and some fluid dyes.

Blue (450 nM) is compatible with all dyes with the exception of extended life coolant dyes."


But what youll see in flashlight types are pretty dependant on available LEDs.

So you get 365,395,415,460 as the most common. IME the higher the wavelength, the weaker the fluorescence but it's also cheaper and easier to produce more light.

Eg. The UVbeast v3 goes up from $60 to $80 for selecting a 365 vs a 395.

The closer a UV pigment is to flourescing red....the lower the chance is it will work well with the higher numbers. (Invisible red barely works at all over 370) so the orangeish universal stuff for oil, gas ,etc is night and day with a 395 vs a 460.

It also creates a unique problem for the flashlight builders as most plastic lense material is made with UV inhibitor that filters below about 420nm optimally.

I had to paint a mural sene that appeared differently in blacklight. The room was set up with fluorescent tubes and half the bulbs in the fixtures were blacklight. When the switch was flipped to blacklight the whole scene changed...... Took a while to figure out the lenses had to be swapped to egg crate style because every available plastic lense was filtering out the wavelength that many colors responded to.

Coworker was troubleshooting a diesel fuel dilution into engine oil issue recently. We didn’t know whether it was the high pressure pump or injectors, customer had allegedly replaced the injectors but we didn’t know whether they had done the job correctly, the injectors were quality, no seals left out or cut, etc.

So he decided to dye the fuel and see. The UV lights we had on hand including my Streamlight would not fluoresce it satisfactorily. He brought the cheap UV flashlight off of Amazon and with its different ranges it was a night and day difference and he was easily able to determine it was the high pressure pump.
 

rockettauto

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Coworker was troubleshooting a diesel fuel dilution into engine oil issue recently. We didn’t know whether it was the high pressure pump or injectors, customer had allegedly replaced the injectors but we didn’t know whether they had done the job correctly, the injectors were quality, no seals left out or cut, etc.

So he decided to dye the fuel and see. The UV lights we had on hand including my Streamlight would not fluoresce it satisfactorily. He brought the cheap UV flashlight off of Amazon and with its different ranges it was a night and day difference and he was easily able to determine it was the high pressure pump.
From what you said about his earlier I'd guess he has one of those dual 365/395 types.
 
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2ndGearRubber

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I have a friend of mine who built a successful business around only working on automotive HVAC systems.

He swears by the electronic leak detectors and reaches for this tool first when doing diagnostics.

I brought my truck to him which was not cooling properly.

5 minutes later, he identified a bad condenser. And yes, he used the electronic leak detector through the front grill without issue.

On a pickup truck that's fine. I'm not an idiot.

How about an infinity g35? Massive PITA. How about a mesh grille? How about a car with grille shutters? Not everything is a chevy truck. I can identify most large leaks on condensors by eye just looking oil staining.

Get a 5mph wind through a shop and you're not finding tiny leaks with anything but dye.
 

oldschoolcraft

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If you want to spend $160 on a UV light, check this out from Malkoff Devices. 365nm. Uses 2 CR123 batteries. The body is compatible with 6v “surefire” style heads so you could swap the head with a regular white light for an EDC light.

They also produce their own 6v white light heads you can buy from them which are better than surefire brand heads.

 
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rockettauto

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On a pickup truck that's fine. I'm not an idiot.

How about an infinity g35? Massive PITA. How about a mesh grille? How about a car with grille shutters? Not everything is a chevy truck. I can identify most large leaks on condensors by eye just looking oil staining.

Get a 5mph wind through a shop and you're not finding tiny leaks with anything but dye.
Agreed, it's not a one or the other thing. I have a sniffer.....it doesn't preclude dye detection. Each is used when they best suit the scenario.
 

rockettauto

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If you want to spend $160 on a UV light, check this out from Malkoff Devices. 365nm. Used 2 CR123 batteries. The body is compatible with 6v “surefire” style heads so you could swap the head with a regular white light for an EDC light.

This subject has me now wanting to purchase the UVbeast v3. Last time I looked you couldn't get this kind of power in the lower wavelengths for reasonable money.

But it's probably freakin overkill.....hmm...overkill is good...hmm


 
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CGarage

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On a pickup truck that's fine. I'm not an idiot.

How about an infinity g35? Massive PITA. How about a mesh grille? How about a car with grille shutters? Not everything is a chevy truck. I can identify most large leaks on condensors by eye just looking oil staining.

Get a 5mph wind through a shop and you're not finding tiny leaks with anything but dye.


It was on my G-Class which has grill mesh in between the slats.

And yes, the oil staining was evident as soon as the condenser was removed.
 

RedneckWelder

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From what you said about his earlier I'd guess he has one of those dual 365/395 types.

It is. I would never have suspected such differences from off the shelf UV lights. I thought the ones sold for leak detection were all roughly the same until that experience.


On the subject of electronic leak detectors we haven’t had much luck with them either. To the point where no one uses them and I’m the only one in the shop with one working.
 

Buckaroo5

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I have this kit and it works well. The light is 12v and hooks up to the battery. If you can do this in the garage, close the door and get it relatively dark, the dye jumps out pretty good.

 

kudakev615

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I want to look at one of those, see how big of a spot it can check. Obviously a larger lit viewing area means less time to check things. What is everybody using?

i bought this light when it first came out 7 or so yrs ago and it has been hands down the best uv light ive ever used. i tried cheap amazon lights, master cool lights, lights that didnt require the glasses with limited success. the light output from the SO 14.4 is the crazy and makes going back to using those double AA battery powered pen lights laughable. ive let others in the shop use it over the yrs and 2 others have bought their own
 
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2ndGearRubber

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I've had good luck with those UV flashlights meant for curing the resin used in windshield chip repair kits.


I've used that style, the shop may have one stashed somewhere. The cord makes me hate it though. Trying to stay cordless.
 

chris142

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Not in my experience.
I've done automotive ac for over 20 years now. Pretty much gave up on electronic leak finders. Too many fake positives or outright missed leaks.

What brand do you recommend? I had a Mac one I paid a lot for. I could hold it in a stream of R134a and it wouldn't beep. Sent it in under warranty to be fixed. Came back.... Same thing.

Mac guy was useless so into the trash it went.
 

CGarage

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I've done automotive ac for over 20 years now. Pretty much gave up on electronic leak finders. Too many fake positives or outright missed leaks.

What brand do you recommend? I had a Mac one I paid a lot for. I could hold it in a stream of R134a and it wouldn't beep. Sent it in under warranty to be fixed. Came back.... Same thing.

Mac guy was useless so into the trash it went.

I will ask him on Monday. 👍
 

kudakev615

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I've done automotive ac for over 20 years now. Pretty much gave up on electronic leak finders. Too many fake positives or outright missed leaks.


i agree with this statement. i have had a million times better luck with recharging a system with dye and finding a leak than with a electronic leak detector but they do have their place. i mostly use them for verifying an evaporator leak. i charge the system up, let it run for a while, remove the blower motor/resistor/cabin filter or whatever i have the most direct shot at the evap core, let it sit over night and test first thing in the AM.
 

Aileron

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Get a 5mph wind through a shop and you're not finding tiny leaks with anything but dye.
Weird how it wont work in a shop enviroment but they work fine outdoors on top a 20 ft building checking ac units for leaks.

I can take a electronic H10 and run it down 40ft of frozin ice cream cases IN the discharge air and pin point the case with the leak. Open up the case and keep dialing the rate in until your right on top the spot.
 
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2ndGearRubber

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Weird how it wont work in a shop enviroment but they work fine outdoors on top a 20 ft building checking ac units for leaks.

I can take a electronic H10 and run it down 40ft of frozin ice cream cases IN the discharge air and pin point the case with the leak. Open up the case and keep dialing the rate in until your right on top the spot.

How large are your leaks? I'm looking for grams/year in a system holding 0.8lb when full. Such a system will have major performance issues at 0.5lb fill level. So I'm looking for leakage of 136/grams over the course of months or years.

Infinicon D-tek Select is what I use. It's infrared. List price was about $600 when I bought it. It's a very good detector, it finds a lot of leaks. It does not find all leaks. Which is why all systems get dye charged.




Soapy water doesn't work either like people tell me to use, since you can typically hear a leak soapy water is capable of finding. Big Blu works okay for service fittings, I use it mostly for EVAP work.
 

msbytes

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I recently picked up this UV Beast light from Amazon. Used it last week to find a A/C leak on a Chrysler Pacifica. Super bright using it in the shop. Had a small Tracerline UV light before and always struggled seeing the dye in the bright shop.
 

Aileron

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My leaks have been all sizes anywhere form small ice machines to large low pressure centrifugal. I will admit there are some ****** detectors out there, I never cared for the h10 until i figured out how to actually use it. They quit making the corded version which was my go to. I could care less if they sound like pinball machines are not.
 

charbar

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I have no complaints with the UV Phazer one that came with my mini SpotGun....


I just checked the beam on it.....shining it on the floor from 2 ft. away gives me a 22-23" circle on the floor when the focus is all the way out. Turn the focus in all the way and it will turn that into a 4" circle at 2 ft.

Still rocking the original Duracell Procell batteries that came with it when I bought it 2 or three years ago. I've never taken the batteries out either so it must not draw them down when sitting either.
 
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