I have a toy Hauler and want to epoxy the floor. For the epoxy i have a can of the epoxy you buy from Home depot(i know its **** but i have it). I was just going to throw some flakes while painting, then put down a good clear coat. Now the question i have, the rear ramp door will be going down often and im worried about the sun yellowing the clear. it there an UV resistant additive? Or do i need to just try not to get sun into it?? Thanks
UV Resistant clearcoat???
- Thread starter Jomax
- Start date
http://www.lowes.com/pd_248501-2174...?Ntt=floor+clear+caot&facetInfo=#BVRRWidgetID
Think this would work???
Think this would work???
From the SEAL-KRETE website - look at the limitations - not for 2 part epoxy.
You might want to contact Legacyindustrial on this board or website and get advice. If you walk on the ramp and its coated with epoxy you may want to consider some anti-skid with the clear coat.
Clear-Seal
Premium Sealers
SEAL-KRETE® CLEAR-SEAL is a ready-to-use premium gloss sealer that comes in 3 different formulas. Clear-Seal products penetrate deeply to seal and protect painted, stained or bare concrete. It goes on milky white and dries to a gloss finish of your choice, enhancing the natural character of your surface. It has excellent chemical resistance and repels stains, making it ideal for pool decks, patios, porches, driveways, garages or anywhere you want to protect and beautify painted, stained or bare concrete.
BEST FOR bare, painted, stained concrete - brick, slate, stone, exposed aggregate, saltillo, clay pavers, stamped concrete
LIMITATIONS above grade use only - Do not use on glazed tile, or 2-part epoxy piants - read label before use
COVERAGE 150-500 sq. ft. per gallon, depending on surface porosity.
DRY TIME 1 hour touch - 24 hours foot traffic - 72 hours vehicular
RECOAT 2 hours
COLOR milky white, dries clear
APPLICATION spray, roll, brush
You might want to contact Legacyindustrial on this board or website and get advice. If you walk on the ramp and its coated with epoxy you may want to consider some anti-skid with the clear coat.
Clear-Seal
Premium Sealers
SEAL-KRETE® CLEAR-SEAL is a ready-to-use premium gloss sealer that comes in 3 different formulas. Clear-Seal products penetrate deeply to seal and protect painted, stained or bare concrete. It goes on milky white and dries to a gloss finish of your choice, enhancing the natural character of your surface. It has excellent chemical resistance and repels stains, making it ideal for pool decks, patios, porches, driveways, garages or anywhere you want to protect and beautify painted, stained or bare concrete.
BEST FOR bare, painted, stained concrete - brick, slate, stone, exposed aggregate, saltillo, clay pavers, stamped concrete
LIMITATIONS above grade use only - Do not use on glazed tile, or 2-part epoxy piants - read label before use
COVERAGE 150-500 sq. ft. per gallon, depending on surface porosity.
DRY TIME 1 hour touch - 24 hours foot traffic - 72 hours vehicular
RECOAT 2 hours
COLOR milky white, dries clear
APPLICATION spray, roll, brush
I have a one part epoxy, for the ramp if its too slippery i was thinking of someof those glue on black grip pads(look like sand paper).
http://homedepot.digby.com/homedepot/product/detail.do?itemId=100113293&categoryId=&path=
http://homedepot.digby.com/homedepot/product/detail.do?itemId=100113293&categoryId=&path=
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Your best bet would be to broadcast some aluminum oxide into the fresh urethane and back-roll it. This would give you a good medium encapsulated in the coating.
Be careful of the THD single component materials. Most urethanes have a solvent vehicle and there could be a reactivity issue.
There would be no issue with a (2) part epoxy.
Be careful of the THD single component materials. Most urethanes have a solvent vehicle and there could be a reactivity issue.
There would be no issue with a (2) part epoxy.
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Jomax:
I try not to comment on another manufacturers products.
I try not to comment on another manufacturers products.
JD in DFW
Well-known member
Scotty I commend you for not wanting to trash another manufactures materials....so I will! 
That seal Krete stuff is pure **** Jomax, your better off putting nothing on as a clear then that stuff. I would call one of the manufactures like Scotty here and get a quality product that will last and wont fade or yellow over time. Also one that will hold up to any heavy traffic you may have on your hauler.
it all comes down to that old adage.....you get what you pay for.
best of luck,
JD
That seal Krete stuff is pure **** Jomax, your better off putting nothing on as a clear then that stuff. I would call one of the manufactures like Scotty here and get a quality product that will last and wont fade or yellow over time. Also one that will hold up to any heavy traffic you may have on your hauler. it all comes down to that old adage.....you get what you pay for.
best of luck,
JD
AlphaGarage
Well-known member
There are UV resistant clear coats, but keep in mind that the clear coat is, well - clear, so if the underlying coating is UV reactive it may still yellow.
I used the "Alpha Garage" epoxy and polyurethane on my Armstrong VCT tiles. I must admitt, Im not happy with the overall results. My tile is yellowing, the top coat has a "pitted" look, and the top coat is scratched from my car tires. At quick glance the epoxy/polyurethane combo looks good. However, upon closer inspection, there are many imperfections. I think I paid $410 for a 2 car garage (epoxy & polyurethane). I have been in construction for many years and was assisted by a retired contracter who knows everything about everything. We followed every instruction and were certain to cross every T and dot every I! Infact, I even called AG before starting to ensure I had the proper rollers, mixers, etc..
If you do the epoxy, defiantly dont fork over the extra money for the polyurethane. Mine is scratched where the wheels of my car track into the garage. I presume from pebbels in the tread of my tires. The polyurethane was supposed to prevent scratching, however that is not the case for me.
Anyways, here is the link to my build. I gave an honest opinion on all the products that I used. Good luck on your rig
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=131677&showall=1
If you do the epoxy, defiantly dont fork over the extra money for the polyurethane. Mine is scratched where the wheels of my car track into the garage. I presume from pebbels in the tread of my tires. The polyurethane was supposed to prevent scratching, however that is not the case for me.
Anyways, here is the link to my build. I gave an honest opinion on all the products that I used. Good luck on your rig
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=131677&showall=1
GarageEnvy
Well-known member
I used the polyurea clear from Epoxy-coat on my garage. The garage is west facing and we frequently have all three doors open (44' of opening). I have not noticed any yellowing after about 18 months. How well it works over another product I wouldn't know. Alpaa and Legacy and other experts are the ones to address this.
thegarageguy
Well-known member
I really knowledgeable guy in the seamless flooring biz once told me, "the only thing on earth that doesn't fade or change color is gold."
With that being said, from my experience, polyurethanes slow down the yellowing process. Depending on quality and conditions, some do a better job than others. And some Polyaspartic eliminate the process. You notice I said some, because there are so many reformulated "polyureas" and polyaspartics" that not all are the same.
We all must remember too....for a lack of a better word, epoxies, polyurethanes and polyaspartics are all plastics. They can scratch, ding and get damaged.
For a working garage we never spec an epoxy paint job or even an epoxy/poly chip floor. At the bare minimum we suggest a 3/16 inch shop floor or quartz floor.
With that being said, from my experience, polyurethanes slow down the yellowing process. Depending on quality and conditions, some do a better job than others. And some Polyaspartic eliminate the process. You notice I said some, because there are so many reformulated "polyureas" and polyaspartics" that not all are the same.
We all must remember too....for a lack of a better word, epoxies, polyurethanes and polyaspartics are all plastics. They can scratch, ding and get damaged.
For a working garage we never spec an epoxy paint job or even an epoxy/poly chip floor. At the bare minimum we suggest a 3/16 inch shop floor or quartz floor.
ScaldedDog
Well-known member
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Mark:
We have a UV resistant clear that can be used on tiles:
http://legacyindustrial.net/cart/vct-epoxy-clear-coating-15-gal-p-233.html
We have a UV resistant clear that can be used on tiles:
http://legacyindustrial.net/cart/vct-epoxy-clear-coating-15-gal-p-233.html
RTcat
Well-known member
What exactly is a "3/16 inch shop floor"? What type or brand of product are you using to build a "3/16 inch shop floor"?
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I'll help.
It is typically a double broadcast.
Epoxy primer, silica sand broadcast to rejection, epoxy base coat, s.s. broadcast to rejection, epoxy base coat, urethane top-coat optional.
When you are done you have approx. 3/16" thick floor, very durable.
It is typically a double broadcast.
Epoxy primer, silica sand broadcast to rejection, epoxy base coat, s.s. broadcast to rejection, epoxy base coat, urethane top-coat optional.
When you are done you have approx. 3/16" thick floor, very durable.
RTcat
Well-known member
Thanks Scotty...appreciated.