Vac Brake Bleeder - MityVac

[mobiledynamics]

Have Motive Brake Bleeder already. If the wife is willing to cooperate, I do prefer to do a old skool brake bleed via Pedal post initial fluid change.

Anyhow....been looking at the Mityvac vac bleeder kit. Yay or nay

 

[AA/FC]

They dont work very good. Never seem to get all the air bubbles removed. If you already have the Motive pressure bleeder, going to a vacuum bleeder will be a step backwards.

 

[Eric29]

I looked at this pretty carefully and bought the mightyvac. I’m actually just about ready to go out and change my brake pads and a couple of rotors. Will let you know how it works.

 

[928'er]

Nay.

Motive is a FAR superior method of bleeding (Mityvac just ***** air around the bleed screw).

 

[fasteddie]

Nay.

Motive is a FAR superior method of bleeding (Mityvac just ***** air around the bleed screw).

I don't have a Mityvac but I know with any kind of vac bleeding you have to pack grease around the bleeder threads to prevent sucking air through.

 

[AA/FC]

I looked at this pretty carefully and what the mighty vac. I’m actually just about ready to go out and change my brake pads and a couple of rotors. Will let you know how it works

You don't need to bleed brakes if you're only changing pads and rotors...

 

[Spulen81]

I've tried the Mityvac and a vac extractor for bleeding (came with a bleeding setup). Both both **** air around the fitting unless its a perfect fit which it rarely is. Plus those rubber adapters that come with the kit rot after awhile and leak even more.
The Motive bleeder is great, I love mine.

 

[racerex]

If I had to do it again, I’d go with the Motive I have the Mityvac 6830.....I use heavy grease around the bleeder fitting and it does a pretty good job at stopping the air leaks. It has served me well, so I’m sticking with it.

 

[mobiledynamics]

Go figure. Thx all. Here I was thinking I was missing out without have a vac bleeder !

 

[akalian]

I've used a MityVac for years to bleed my brakes and it works very well after you make a few modifications.

First, as mentioned above there is no easy way to seal the leak around the bleeder screw with grease. But there is an easy way to seal it off, nontheless.

I called a pigtail and it consists of a bleeder screw with 1/4" trimmed off the pointy end. A small length of 1/4" tubing secured with some wire to the end of the 1/4" tubing and a rubber washer on the threaded part of the bleeder screw. Screw this into the brake cylinder and you will have a perfect seal. All the parts are readily available at Lowes or Home Depot. With the exception of the bleeder screw. You can get them at any auto supply store.

The other thing that needs to be made is a way to keep from sucking air back in the lines. That's easy as well, with some of that spare tubing, and a old mayonaise jar.

I went full Adam Savage on this over at ToyotaNation. You can read through the entire thread if you want to track the progress of the build. I think it works as good as any of the commercial ones, and it didn't cost a lot to build, and I got a kick out of making it.

As they say, if it's worth doing, it's worth overdoing.

https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/...der-bleed-your-brakes-easy-way-many-pics.html

I cobbled this all together back in 2010, and it still works just fine even today. Matter of fact, I just used it a month ago to bleed a friends brakes.

I guess you could buy one, but what's the fun in that?

.

 

[frank001]

I have had a MityVac for many years. Still works great and has never failed me on numerous vehicles, including ABS. I can't understand why people have problems using one. By far the easiest method I have found to bleed brakes by yourself. No need for grease either or any 'pigtail' or any other addons. I think many of the people who comment either have never used one, or can't figure out how to use it.

 

[fasteddie]

I made one of the waterpipe type bleeder jars from a pickle jar last year when I replaced all my brake lines. I had the intention of using my AC vacuum pump with it. Then I remembered I had a few large plastic syringes laying around. It worked great. 3 or 4 draws bled the fluid air free on the rear lines, maybe 2 pulls on the front lines.

https://dumielauxepices.net/sites/default/files/syringe-clipart-material-788461-168368.png

 

[driftpin]

I don't have any ABS bikes, I use a 60 ml syringe and do a 'reverse-bleed' from the caliper or the slave cyl if it's a hydraulic clutch, on my bikes. Quick, easy, and by evacuating the master cyl first, I can flush the entire system quickly.

I have 3 different MityVac's and have used one since about 1980, but most of the time I now do a reverse-bleed. The MityVac I usually wrapped the bleeder valve in teflon tape.

 

[Eric29]

True but I thought I’d have enough time to actually change the brake fluid and **** it through the lines. Unfortunately I didn’t get to that tonight.

You don't need to bleed brakes if you're only changing pads and rotors...

 

[Tonyuk]

Its not a vacuum bleeder but pressure bleeder you need. One that supplies fluid under pressure from the master cylinder resivour, that way you just crack the bleeders and drain a measured amount of fluid. VAG have this as their required method for bleeding the system, as do many other manufacturers.

 

[dogdog]

I used the combination of the mighty hand vac and the HF brake bleeder bottle modified.

why... there is a reservoir for the fresh break fluids, and the old brake fluid bottle is a lot bigger... once modded, I can use the hand held or the AC vac electric one...



I don't like the default air mechanism.. I just pull off the handle and install a barbed to 1/4 NPT fitting, plugged the other end with a 1/4 to 1/8 and install a vacuum gauge to it... works very well...


this HF one...
https://www.harborfreight.com/catal...Featured+Weight,f,Sale+Rank,f&q=brake+bleeder


OTOH they do sell the fluid extractors that holds gallons...or liters...

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I use a mason jar like akalian but I run a long hose to engine vacuum. I don't care if there is air getting around the bleeder threads, the engine vacuum makes up for it. Be careful not to **** the master dry.

View media item 86358

 

[stickshift]

Nay.

Motive is a FAR superior method of bleeding (Mityvac just ***** air around the bleed screw).

The air being sucked in via the screw threads isn't a real problem, but it is annoying and means working harder to maintain vacuum. Also makes it less obvious when all the old fluid has been sucked out of the line.

Also annoying to move the vacuum bleeding setup to each of the 4 wheels. And then dealing with the rubber seals and poor vacuum that can result if the catch canister isn't properly sealed. And those lightweight catch canisters are prone to tipping over.

The whole manual vacuum setup is full of annoyances. Yeah, it worked when I did it, but next time, I'm getting a pressure bleeder.

OP, don't even think about ditching your Motive for a vacuum. But if you insist, I'll trade you!

 

[joe_padavano]

Don't waste your time with a hand-pump vacuum bleeder. Air gets back in between pumps. I've had a Vacula system that uses shop air through a venturi to create vacuum. It's the best tool I've ever bought. You don't even need to bench bleed a new master cylinder - it will **** the air completely out of the brake system. I've never had to bleed my brakes more than once with this unit.

 

[larry4406]

I have a Mityvac and air leakage at the threads of the bleed screw was causing problems. I wrapped the bleed screw with teflon tape making sure it could not get into the caliper and worked like a charm.

 

[Showkey]

Don't waste your time with a hand-pump vacuum bleeder. Air gets back in between pumps. I've had a Vacula system that uses shop air through a venturi to create vacuum. It's the best tool I've ever bought. You don't even need to bench bleed a new master cylinder - it will **** the air completely out of the brake system. I've never had to bleed my brakes more than once with this unit.

Vacuum is vacuum..........hand pump or vacula or any other device.
The vehicle does not care how the vacuum is developed..........it’s all about the user technique.
As many have stated the thread leak is non issue.

 

[Modern Garage]

I realize this is the General TOOL Discussion forum and it's heresy to suggest "not" buying another tool, but if I may I'd like to talk about technique.
I haven't used a pressure bleeder since school and my first job. When I opened my own shop I didn't want to invest in a whole flock of adapters and deal with the mess of having the things taking up space. I've tried vacuum bleeding and was unimpressed because it didn't save me any time. I do this for a living - time IS money.
As I seem to work alone a lot (the owner always has the longest hours) I've learned that there's almost nothing that can't be "gravity bled". Just fill the master, leave the cap loose and open the bleeder. There's enough drop from the master to the wheels or clutch slave that the fluid naturally wants to run downhill, pushing any air with it. Work your way around the car, topping up the master as needed, then prop the brake pedal with a tool (start the engine for power brakes) to get a little pressure and crack a bleeder to see if you get one last air bubble. Release and re-prop the pedal and go to the next bleeder. I usually don't see any air on the last go round, as the gravity method works quite well.
If I've replaced a long run of brake line I'll open the farthest bleeder(s) and slowly stroke the pedal with my foot or hand until I see or hear fluid on the floor. You can always push fluid out of the master fast enough to fill the lines and start gravity doing its job.
Needless to say this won't work on vintage cars with the master cylinder below the floor, and some clutch systems with a lot or gyrations to the line between master and slave don't respond easily but those are the few exceptions a year where I need to borrow a helper in the shop, or a neighbor for at-home work, to man the pedal while I open and close the bleeder. It works for me on a hundred cars a year, it will work in your garage.
Joe

 

[alexb2000]

I have a mighty vac, a vaculla, and a gear wrench branded pressure bleeder with an assortment of power probe master cylinder adapters. I will NEVER use anything other than the pressure setup. 10 minutes to change ALL the brake fluid, one person, no air, no problems, works first time, every time.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P72CSQ/?tag=atomicindus08-20

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003U459B8/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I got one of these on a warehouse deal, but it is still expensive I know. That said, with some ABS systems there is just no substitute. Get air in the system and you will have to have a scan tool capable of cycling the ABS system to get your pedal back (Chevy/GMC trucks come to mind).

 

[theoldwizard1]

The simplest "old school" method of bleeding brakes is a combination of "gravity" bleed and bottle. Get a plastic bottle with a well fitting screw cap. Over 1 pint for sure. Drill a hole in the cap that will allow the vinyl tubing you are using so fit snugly through the cap to the bottom of the bottle. You can use a zip/cable tie to secure the hose to the bleeder or the proper size spring clamp. Crack the bleeder and let it drain into the bottle. You need enough in the bottle to cover the bottom of the hose before moving on to step 2.

Place the bottle in a position that it can not fall over. Now, fill the master cylinder and give one long slow push on the pedal all the way to the floor. Repeat. Check the level of the fluid in the bottle, the color of the fluid in the line. If the line still has dark colored brake fluid or shows bubbles, check the level of fluid in the master and give the brakes another couple of pumps.

Once you have clear brake fluid in the hose with no bubbles, you are done. Close the bleeder and remove the hose.

 

[peejay75]

I've a question about MityVacs/vacuum pumps as I've recently used mine to bleed my clutch and am thinking of using it to bleed my brakes.

Does the vacuum pump "care" if the master cylinder port(s) are "open" (pedal depressed) or "closed" (pedal released)?

Is it's intended function to create a vacuum by pulling air/fluid PAST the seals, in a closed system, and therefore why caution should be exercised to not use too much vacuum and risk damaging the seals?

Or does it not matter, pedal up/down?

(Also, is using a vacuum pump on a speed/ez bleeder "ok" or is something gonna cancel out, just pump the pedal and ditch the vacuum pump?)

 

[rust in the eye]

Not a fan of this tool for brake bleeding but it has other uses. Air is always coming through the bleed screw threads so nigh on impossible to know when/if the air removed from the system.
Gravity or pressure bleeding works best for me.

 

[peejay75]

Not a fan of this tool for brake bleeding but it has other uses. Air is always coming through the bleed screw threads so nigh on impossible to know when/if the air removed from the system.
Gravity or pressure bleeding works best for me.

Replying for a "friend" so that "they" know (and since I see it come up alot in mityvac discussions) but how does one know that air is getting past the bleed screw threads? Do you hear it, see it in the form of bubbles? Also, do the tricks of grease or Teflon tape in the bleed screw threads work?

 

[LopezBart]

I use the MityVac on my motorcycle; it works reasonably well there. When my shop is up and running I may make a pressure bleeder for the bike. If one does much more than just crack the bleeder valves air bubbles will be seen in my experience.
The easiest system to bleed is our Airstream with the electrohydraulic disc brake controller I installed.... I added a push button to apply the brakes (hooked to the 7 pin connector) and I can bleed them by myself easily. I do need to add a hanging "IV" style feeder so I don't have to come up from underneath until all 4 wheels are done .

 

[rust in the eye]

Replying for a "friend" so that "they" know (and since I see it come up alot in mityvac discussions) but how does one know that air is getting past the bleed screw threads? Do you hear it, see it in the form of bubbles? Also, do the tricks of grease or Teflon tape in the bleed screw threads work?

I neglected to answer your question about pedal position. The pedal must be at rest for bleeding to occur. Depressing the pedal closes the reservoir from the system.

 

[slowtwitch73]

They ****

 

[Hohn]

I have the mityvac silverline which does both vacuum and pressure. Seems to work well enough.

 

[Hohn]

They dont work very good. Never seem to get all the air bubbles removed. If you already have the Motive pressure bleeder, going to a vacuum bleeder will be a step backwards.

I wonder if some of the bubbles aren't actually caused by the vacuum being pulled. The same way that dropping the pressure of a 2L soda bottle by opening it will cause the dissolved CO2 to come out and form bubbles.

Stands to reason that if there's trace moisture (brake fluid is hygroscopic) in the fluid, that pulling a vacuum hard enough could boil it off and cause bubbles.

 

[peejay75]

I neglected to answer your question about pedal position. The pedal must be at rest for bleeding to occur. Depressing the pedal closes the reservoir from the system.

(Thank you!)

 

[AA/FC]

I wonder if some of the bubbles aren't actually caused by the vacuum being pulled. The same way that dropping the pressure of a 2L soda bottle by opening it will cause the dissolved CO2 to come out and form bubbles.

Stands to reason that if there's trace moisture (brake fluid is hygroscopic) in the fluid, that pulling a vacuum hard enough could boil it off and cause bubbles.

I see your point but using a "vacuum" bleeder isn't really creating a "vacuum" in the sense that you're lowering the pressure on the brake fluid. You COULD lower the pressure on the brake fluid IF the system was sealed, and then you pulled a true vacuum..... like you would before charging the A/C system.... but with the cap being off the master cylinder, you're not really lowering the pressure to cause moisture to boil. You're simply moving fluid with a "suction".

My $0.02, anyway....

 

[AffableCurmudgeon]

I have a Motiv, as well as Harbor Freight’s pneumatic brake bleeder kit. I have not used the Motiv in about 15 years. For me, using the pneumatic bleeder works the best. It has a refill kit (basically a bottle with a stand that maintains the brake fluid level). it Is really quick to do all four ends without worrying about fluid level, or finding a helper, or worrying about Motiv pressure, etc.

 

[Wamsutta]

The success of the Motive bleeder depends on how well it's able to seal around the master cylinder. That sounds like a design issue with the bleeder, but it's not. It's an issue with the design of the GM master cylinder and its cap. The push turn and stop design they use don't work well with the Motive bleeder. I have a Motive bleeder and I gave up on trying to use it with fluid in the tank. I now use it with just pressurized air in the tank. It works that way, but I have to make sure I don't run out of fluid in the master cylinder. If your car has a threaded on master cylinder cap like Honda has, you've got it made in the shade.

 

[Hohn]

I see your point but using a "vacuum" bleeder isn't really creating a "vacuum" in the sense that you're lowering the pressure on the brake fluid. You COULD lower the pressure on the brake fluid IF the system was sealed, and then you pulled a true vacuum..... like you would before charging the A/C system.... but with the cap being off the master cylinder, you're not really lowering the pressure to cause moisture to boil. You're simply moving fluid with a "suction".

My $0.02, anyway....

I think you are exactly correct, the only "vacuum" you can pull is the restriction of the fluid in the lines, and that's not much.

 

[bctexas]

The answer to all this, IMHO, is Speed Bleeders. They replace the factory bleeder fittings. They look like a standard bleeder fitting, but have a spring loaded one-way check valve that will, when the fitting is open, let fluid out, but will not let air in. They also have sealant on the threads to stop air passing the threads. You simply attach a hose with a catch bottle on the end to the fitting, open it and pump the pedal. I do a front and a rear at the same time. Easy, one person job. I have them on all my cars. Flushing the brake fluid every year or so can extend the life of the hydraulic components in your brake system significantly. There are several brands, but here is what I *think* is the original:

http://www.speedbleeder.com/

Happy Motoring!

 

[Jeepster04]

Ive been using the mityvac for many years. Its true that it will **** air around the bleeder screws but Ive always been able to put a bit of grease around the threads.

I do wonder if the grease being sucked into and most likely mixed with the brake fluid may cause an issue...

 

[rust in the eye]

Ive been using the mityvac for many years. Its true that it will **** air around the bleeder screws but Ive always been able to put a bit of grease around the threads.

I do wonder if the grease being sucked into and most likely mixed with the brake fluid may cause an issue...

Nope. Th egrease will be sent "downstream".
T tape on the bleeder threads will work too and also prevents siezure but more than I care to do sometimes.