Vapor barrier after work already done? Pitched roof

[MAD MARK]

Redid my garage shingles 4 years ago. New shingles, some new sheathing, new ridge cap, and new soffit (vented) and fascia. Did nothing inside for a year. Then I added rafter vents with the built in "end caps" (pic below) and continued with the other style the whole length up to the ridge cap.

I then added R-13 faced insulation. I probably overdid the staples. I have started to kraft tape up some seams that had rips and tears. I intend to add an air gap because the insulation didnt fit properly into the given space (2x4s) with the rafter vents there too.

I am just wondering if I should install a vapor barrier (6mil plastic) first. If I could redo it again I would probably go closed cell 2-3". Pay for it and be done. But, I am where I am.

Few details..
I heat with a wood stove in the winter.
Garage sees summer sun 80% of the day.
Garage is 32x25.5 feet, 10 foot tall ceilings on ends, probably 15 in the middle. Has truss system but decided not to install dropped ceiling. Wanted an open feeling.
Live in Pittsburgh Pa "Climate Zone 5"

Any guidance?

 

[lakeroadster]

The kraft paper is a vapor barrier. You don't need another one.

Two vapor barriers = condensation issues.

But you need to put something up.. that's a fire hazard leaving the kraft paper exposed.

 

[MAD MARK]

Everywhere Ive read said Kraft paper is vapor "retarder". Even the company states that now. Wanted to see if I needed a "barrier"

And eventually I am going to put up some kind of sheathing. I know that if I hang drywall and paint it, that is considered a "barrier" in itself, but I am leaning heavily away from that idea.

 

[lakeroadster]

Everywhere Ive read said Kraft paper is vapor "retarder". Even the company states that now. Wanted to see if I needed a "barrier"

And eventually I am going to put up some kind of sheathing. I know that if I hang drywall and paint it, that is considered a "barrier" in itself, but I am leaning heavily away from that idea.

If you do install a Vapor Barrier against the kraft paper, then take a box cutter and cut slices in the kraft paper to allow the moisture to escape.

As for sheathing... some white steel panels would look good up there. And you'd be amazed at how much brighter the space will be.

 

[MAD MARK]

Ive been tossing around the idea with "white weather worn" flooring. Almost cheaper than sheathing and easy to put up myself.



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[MAD MARK]

I am mainly asking this question because when I have the woodstove burning and I open to the door to refire, I can hear the styrofoam rafter vents creaking and cracking from cold air coming in. Trying to stop air infiltration during winter.

 

[Denwood]

There are many, many air leaks right now which will lead to condensation issues in winter. You should definitely apply a vapour barrier, and sheath over that..my guess drywall for fire barrier as per code.

I was in the same predicament and ended up just going with closed cell foam and drywall.

 

[MAD MARK]

Did you leave the rafter vents in? Or did you never have them?