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Vapor barrier or not?

wantacoe

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Joined
Apr 28, 2015
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653
Location
Sycamore, il
I am using the pictured insulation sheets on the ceiling of my pole building. I will be using metal roofing for the ceiling. Do I need a vapor barrier with this type of insulation? Also on the walls I will be using the same insulation with OSB. Will that need a vapor barrier? Thanks
 

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jack stand

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Feb 29, 2012
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3,336
Location
Lakes Region Maine
Not necessarily true with foam for insulation. It's important to have enough foam (depth) so that the dew point is within the foam. BUT his foam job needs to be fully sealed at all joints and edges.
2" should be enough.
I don't know how I involved Morton in this in my other response. Either I need my eyes checked or a "checkup from the neckup"😆
 
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wantacoe

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 28, 2015
Messages
653
Location
Sycamore, il
The insulation is 2 1/2" thick and I have it doubled up so it is 5". That is for the ceiling and walls. LOL, you did lose me with the Morton comment.
 

jack stand

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Feb 29, 2012
Messages
3,336
Location
Lakes Region Maine
I did this in my shop and house. Buy a foam gun ((about $40) and the screw on foam cans and some cleaner. You can stop and start days and weeks apart unlike the one use cans and the stupid straw. Foam in each layer and from what I've gathered that effectively is your moisture barrier.
I used 1 1/2" (used) foam, but 1 layer in between the wall girts. I built on a foundation for frost reasons and framed with conventional 16" oc and put my 2nd layer in between the studs. There's enough room for r13 fg left.
Of course I moved in before it was finished....
It's still that way 😆
I did tyvek under the metal but that's NOT a vapor barrier, going on 12 years and I just opened a wall up to install a window a/c through the wall. No signs of any problems.
 

67CarGuy

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Joined
Feb 6, 2008
Messages
763
Location
Outside Boston, MA
Don't install a Class 1 vapor retarder on the interior side of air permeable insulation. If that's closed cell foam (can't tell from the photos, but looks like it might be closed cell) then you likely don't need the vapor barrier anyways.

You're in IL, how's the humidity in the summer? Humidity, like heat (energy) goes from more to less. So if you have A/C in there and drop the relative humidity in your garage below what it is outside, it'll try to draw the humidity from outside in so that it can equalize. The opposite in the winter - your space will be more humid than outside, so you'll have moisture drive towards the outside. All that to say, @jack stand is right about the dew point. You want your wall to be able to dry in one direction or the other (to the interior or exterior), and any bulk water that might get into the wall to have an easy way to get out.
 
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