Cris B
Well-known member
Re: The Little Vintage Garage.
Beautiful work on the Wilton restoration.
Beautiful work on the Wilton restoration.
Veeps' Garage
- Thread starter bagged89s10
- Start date
OP
bagged89s10
Well-known member
Re: The Little Vintage Garage.
Thanks guys. I'm really happy how it turned out.
Thanks guys. I'm really happy how it turned out.
Grumblebum
Well-known member
Re: The Little Vintage Garage.
Very nice! Do you clear coat too or is it just the gloss look from the Hammerite ?
Cheers GB.
Very nice! Do you clear coat too or is it just the gloss look from the Hammerite ?
Cheers GB.
OP
bagged89s10
Well-known member
Re: The Little Vintage Garage.
Thanks grumblebum. The gloss is just from the hammerite. I have not cleared over hammerite. Last time I tried to clear over hammerite, it wrinkled the paint. It probably wasn't cured enough.
Thanks grumblebum. The gloss is just from the hammerite. I have not cleared over hammerite. Last time I tried to clear over hammerite, it wrinkled the paint. It probably wasn't cured enough.
taumac
Well-known member
Re: The Little Vintage Garage.
Wow, awesome job on the Wilton.
Wow, awesome job on the Wilton.
OP
bagged89s10
Well-known member
Re: The Little Vintage Garage.
Thanks taumac. I spent more than I originally wanted to on this one but it was worth it.
Thanks taumac. I spent more than I originally wanted to on this one but it was worth it.
OP
bagged89s10
Well-known member
The Little Vintage Garage.
Thanks man. I usually sell a fully restored vise for $300 to $400. This particular one was a second purchase for my customer and I charged $300.
The new jaws and handle were an added bonus I threw in. It just made it easier for me to cut the old handle off than trying to make the original look good. I thought I was going to be able to work with the old jaws inserts, but they were too beat up and the corners were chipped off. So I just bought new ones. I probably could have gotten $100 more, but I made a prior agreement for $300 and it was worth it for a repeat customer.
Thanks man. I usually sell a fully restored vise for $300 to $400. This particular one was a second purchase for my customer and I charged $300.
The new jaws and handle were an added bonus I threw in. It just made it easier for me to cut the old handle off than trying to make the original look good. I thought I was going to be able to work with the old jaws inserts, but they were too beat up and the corners were chipped off. So I just bought new ones. I probably could have gotten $100 more, but I made a prior agreement for $300 and it was worth it for a repeat customer.
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OP
bagged89s10
Well-known member
The Little Vintage Garage.
So I cleaned up the bench and dug some of the vises out from the cabinet. I still have 10 more vises not shown. It's good to get 3 vises sold this week.
Of course I had to buy one more. This is a Parker 804. 4" jaws and weighs 68 lbs
Next vise being restored is this Columbian 203-1/2.
So I cleaned up the bench and dug some of the vises out from the cabinet. I still have 10 more vises not shown. It's good to get 3 vises sold this week.
Of course I had to buy one more. This is a Parker 804. 4" jaws and weighs 68 lbs
Next vise being restored is this Columbian 203-1/2.
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OP
bagged89s10
Well-known member
The Little Vintage Garage.
Santa(aka myself) brought me a 6 pack. A 6 pack of 4 foot shop lights. I'm going to rewire these to remove the ballasts and buy ballast bypass led tubes. That should be bright enough.
Im going to get these ballast bypass led tubes
https://www.earthled.com/products/l...64eo_u03rgjHX4TxoCWpLw_wcB&variant=2174807620
Santa(aka myself) brought me a 6 pack. A 6 pack of 4 foot shop lights. I'm going to rewire these to remove the ballasts and buy ballast bypass led tubes. That should be bright enough.
Im going to get these ballast bypass led tubes
https://www.earthled.com/products/l...64eo_u03rgjHX4TxoCWpLw_wcB&variant=2174807620
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BuickFarmer
Well-known member
Re: The Little Vintage Garage.
Just stumbled in! Great shop and some beautiful tool and equipment restorations. Subscribing now!
Just stumbled in! Great shop and some beautiful tool and equipment restorations. Subscribing now!
OP
bagged89s10
Well-known member
firestartergli
Active member
Re: The Little Vintage Garage.
I like the Nogaro blue on your S10. Good hustle on making the little garage so useable!!
I like the Nogaro blue on your S10. Good hustle on making the little garage so useable!!
OP
bagged89s10
Well-known member
Re: The Little Vintage Garage.
Thanks man. I'm hoping to get some time to work on the s10 in 2016. My biggest problem was the mess in the garage preventing me from wanting to go out there to work on it. I like going out to my garage now because it's organized and I can find what I need. I get really flustered in a messy shop.
Thanks man. I'm hoping to get some time to work on the s10 in 2016. My biggest problem was the mess in the garage preventing me from wanting to go out there to work on it. I like going out to my garage now because it's organized and I can find what I need. I get really flustered in a messy shop.
madoc1
Well-known member
Re: The Little Vintage Garage.
been following along for while now. nice work. are the led bulbs brighter than regular t8s ?
jim
been following along for while now. nice work. are the led bulbs brighter than regular t8s ?
jim
OP
bagged89s10
Well-known member
Re: The Little Vintage Garage.
I hear the led tubes will be brighter, and there isn't wasted light facing up so that also helps. I'll find out.
I hear the led tubes will be brighter, and there isn't wasted light facing up so that also helps. I'll find out.
OP
bagged89s10
Well-known member
Re: The Little Vintage Garage.
So I just picked up this Craftsman drill press with vari-slo speed control. I've been wanting a drill press with slow speed since I mostly cut metal. This popped up for sale locally so I jumped on it. The seller told me I can have it for $80 if i came to get it within a couple days. So I did. Of course he was selling a bunch of other cool stuff which i grabbed too. So i paid $160 total.
There are no model badges on this one but I think it's the 100. It has the 10x10 tilt table.
It came with a craftsman stand.
And this plate that bolts to the table with an overkill light mount.
Here it is running.
So I guess it works on the belts slipping and tightening to change speeds. I think this setup of the belt slipping a little is great for drilling steel and not worrying about breaking bits if they get caught in a burr. I do need to clean it up and put new belts on. I don't know why but the previous owner took the label off the motor too. It's a craftsman motor. Anyone know what size motor was probably sold by craftsman for this drill press? How can I find out the power? I need craftsman badges for this machine if anyone is selling any.
So I just picked up this Craftsman drill press with vari-slo speed control. I've been wanting a drill press with slow speed since I mostly cut metal. This popped up for sale locally so I jumped on it. The seller told me I can have it for $80 if i came to get it within a couple days. So I did. Of course he was selling a bunch of other cool stuff which i grabbed too. So i paid $160 total.
There are no model badges on this one but I think it's the 100. It has the 10x10 tilt table.
It came with a craftsman stand.
And this plate that bolts to the table with an overkill light mount.
Here it is running.
So I guess it works on the belts slipping and tightening to change speeds. I think this setup of the belt slipping a little is great for drilling steel and not worrying about breaking bits if they get caught in a burr. I do need to clean it up and put new belts on. I don't know why but the previous owner took the label off the motor too. It's a craftsman motor. Anyone know what size motor was probably sold by craftsman for this drill press? How can I find out the power? I need craftsman badges for this machine if anyone is selling any.
OP
bagged89s10
Well-known member
Re: The Little Vintage Garage.
Here is all the other stuff I grabbed. I'll sell the vises but keep everything else
3 drill press vises
A bunch of other stuff including a die set
Lots of drill bits including a numbered 1-60 set.
Full set of letter and number punches and a mitutoyo caliper
Counter bore set
And a bunch of punches
Here is all the other stuff I grabbed. I'll sell the vises but keep everything else
3 drill press vises
A bunch of other stuff including a die set
Lots of drill bits including a numbered 1-60 set.
Full set of letter and number punches and a mitutoyo caliper
Counter bore set
And a bunch of punches
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rmalkow2
Well-known member
Re: The Little Vintage Garage.
Cool DP and at a great price for old American quality. A bit strange that the PO would take the badges off but I bet you can find some replacements. Interesting concept to change speeds and something I had never seen before. Runs smooth in your video.
Cool DP and at a great price for old American quality. A bit strange that the PO would take the badges off but I bet you can find some replacements. Interesting concept to change speeds and something I had never seen before. Runs smooth in your video.
OP
bagged89s10
Well-known member
Re: The Little Vintage Garage.
Thanks rmalkow. Now I Need to get my duro dp together so i can sell it. I also need to rearrange and move where I keep where I have my drill press. This one is too tall with the vari-slow pulley setup. I was thinking about shortening the column by 5" but I would lose too much clearance.
Thanks rmalkow. Now I Need to get my duro dp together so i can sell it. I also need to rearrange and move where I keep where I have my drill press. This one is too tall with the vari-slow pulley setup. I was thinking about shortening the column by 5" but I would lose too much clearance.
Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Re: The Little Vintage Garage.
Here's your post-Christmas You ****!
Here's your post-Christmas You ****!
Grumblebum
Well-known member
Re: The Little Vintage Garage.
Wow man nice score for $160, some of those bits are things that take years to build up in ones collection too.
Have a good new year...
Cheers Grumblebum.
Wow man nice score for $160, some of those bits are things that take years to build up in ones collection too.
Have a good new year...
Cheers Grumblebum.
BuickFarmer
Well-known member
Re: The Little Vintage Garage.
Great score bagged, thanks for the video, cool!
Great score bagged, thanks for the video, cool!
taumac
Well-known member
Re: The Little Vintage Garage.
YOU ****! That's one NICE drill press.
YOU ****! That's one NICE drill press.
OP
bagged89s10
Well-known member
Re: The Little Vintage Garage.
Thanks fellas. Now I need to move a few things around to make this drill press fit. It's too tall to fit where I had my duro drill press.
I'm thinking I will put in on this bench and move the vacuum.
In the past month I acquired all the drill bits, taps, and dies that I was about to buy new. Good thing I didn't buy them and found these. I got a lot more for a fraction of the cost.
Happy new year to all and be safe!
Thanks fellas. Now I need to move a few things around to make this drill press fit. It's too tall to fit where I had my duro drill press.
I'm thinking I will put in on this bench and move the vacuum.
In the past month I acquired all the drill bits, taps, and dies that I was about to buy new. Good thing I didn't buy them and found these. I got a lot more for a fraction of the cost.
Happy new year to all and be safe!
OP
bagged89s10
Well-known member
The Little Vintage Garage.
Happy new year all!
I decided to put the drill press in a different place. Here it is in its new location in the corner of my garage. I think it should work well there. I really like the vacuum and hose on the wall and don't have another place for it. Also the workbench height might be a little high for the drill press. I need to get the right size belts and rewire the motor. The front and middle belts are too long. Then I will do a full restore at some point.
I might replace the stand and use one of my tool chests for a stand instead. Then I can use the drawers to store all my drill bits and taps and dies. I also like to keep all my tools mobile when possible.
Happy new year all!
I decided to put the drill press in a different place. Here it is in its new location in the corner of my garage. I think it should work well there. I really like the vacuum and hose on the wall and don't have another place for it. Also the workbench height might be a little high for the drill press. I need to get the right size belts and rewire the motor. The front and middle belts are too long. Then I will do a full restore at some point.
I might replace the stand and use one of my tool chests for a stand instead. Then I can use the drawers to store all my drill bits and taps and dies. I also like to keep all my tools mobile when possible.
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jbmatth
Well-known member
Re: The Little Vintage Garage.
Bagged, from what I remember the Craftsman 100 drill press I have has a 3/4 hp motor. That is a great score on all of those tools and I'm sure you are thrilled to have been able to get it all.
JB
Bagged, from what I remember the Craftsman 100 drill press I have has a 3/4 hp motor. That is a great score on all of those tools and I'm sure you are thrilled to have been able to get it all.
JB
OP
bagged89s10
Well-known member
Re: The Little Vintage Garage.
Thanks. I think I have all the main shop tools I need for now. Slowly I will restore each one.
Thanks. I think I have all the main shop tools I need for now. Slowly I will restore each one.
OP
bagged89s10
Well-known member
The Little Vintage Garage.
I'm going to be wiring outlets in the garage in the next few weeks.
My options.
1. Emt and surface mount boxes.
2. Romex and drops from the attic into the stud bays.
3. Romex and cut out drywall and drill holes in studs to run Romex thru.
I think easiest, fastest, cheapest is probably cutting and patching drywall. I already have rolls of 12/2 Romex so I don't have to buy any.
Going into the attic is a big pain since attic access is in the far end of the house. Also a lot of my garage time is late nights after the family is sleeping so going into the attic during that time is not my best option, especially since it's winter.
What do you guys think.?
I'm going to be wiring outlets in the garage in the next few weeks.
My options.
1. Emt and surface mount boxes.
2. Romex and drops from the attic into the stud bays.
3. Romex and cut out drywall and drill holes in studs to run Romex thru.
I think easiest, fastest, cheapest is probably cutting and patching drywall. I already have rolls of 12/2 Romex so I don't have to buy any.
Going into the attic is a big pain since attic access is in the far end of the house. Also a lot of my garage time is late nights after the family is sleeping so going into the attic during that time is not my best option, especially since it's winter.
What do you guys think.?
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Shiftless
Well-known member
Re: The Little Vintage Garage.
Bagged:
As far as attic access goes, I had the same problem. I just cut a new hole in the ceiling in the hallway where it was much more convenient. I framed it in, cut a piece of plywood as a loose drop in door, and put in molding to match the rest of the house. Painted it to match the ceiling and nobody knows it wasn't there since day one!
As far as wiring goes...Unless you are WAY better than me, cutting, adding blocking, replacing sections, retaping and skim coating everything doesn't sound real easy to me.
In my little work space I don't even have Sheetrock so I run power in EMT. Easy to modify. I have a sub panel right there in the garage so that makes it easy.
Bagged:
As far as attic access goes, I had the same problem. I just cut a new hole in the ceiling in the hallway where it was much more convenient. I framed it in, cut a piece of plywood as a loose drop in door, and put in molding to match the rest of the house. Painted it to match the ceiling and nobody knows it wasn't there since day one!
As far as wiring goes...Unless you are WAY better than me, cutting, adding blocking, replacing sections, retaping and skim coating everything doesn't sound real easy to me.
In my little work space I don't even have Sheetrock so I run power in EMT. Easy to modify. I have a sub panel right there in the garage so that makes it easy.
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Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Re: The Little Vintage Garage.
First thing I would do is add some easier access to the attic space above the garage. In the picture of the back of your house (below) it looks like you have only a crawl space above the house with even less above the garage. At least a rectangular hole with a removable panel but even better would be a pull-down ladder. A few pieces of plywood in the attic would give you storage space for a lot of bulky but lightweight stuff (the interior of my project car is up in my garage attic space)....
I don't find sheet rock work that hard, especially with an oscillating multi-tool with a real thin blade. Minimizes dust and the cut-out pieces can go right back where they came out with minimal tape and mud. A damp sanding sponge can level and smooth the dried mud with zero dust as well.
I would do 2 or 3. As soon as I put EMT and surface boxes on the walls I have to notch cabinets and benches so they fit flush on the wall. First notch isn't bad but I always seem to be re-arranging cabinets and adding more notches. But that's just me.
First thing I would do is add some easier access to the attic space above the garage. In the picture of the back of your house (below) it looks like you have only a crawl space above the house with even less above the garage. At least a rectangular hole with a removable panel but even better would be a pull-down ladder. A few pieces of plywood in the attic would give you storage space for a lot of bulky but lightweight stuff (the interior of my project car is up in my garage attic space)....
I don't find sheet rock work that hard, especially with an oscillating multi-tool with a real thin blade. Minimizes dust and the cut-out pieces can go right back where they came out with minimal tape and mud. A damp sanding sponge can level and smooth the dried mud with zero dust as well.
OP
bagged89s10
Well-known member
Re: The Little Vintage Garage.
Both good points. I'll have to sit in my garage and figure out the outlets layout then decide. I also need to figure out where to mount this little heater that just arrived.
Both good points. I'll have to sit in my garage and figure out the outlets layout then decide. I also need to figure out where to mount this little heater that just arrived.
OP
bagged89s10
Well-known member
Re: The Little Vintage Garage.
I went up in the attic to assess the situation and the crawl space above the attic is very difficult to get to. I think I'm going to cut in an attic access panel. What direction in relation to joists do I cut my opening?
I would do 2 or 3. As soon as I put EMT and surface boxes on the walls I have to notch cabinets and benches so they fit flush on the wall. First notch isn't bad but I always seem to be re-arranging cabinets and adding more notches. But that's just me.
First thing I would do is add some easier access to the attic space above the garage. In the picture of the back of your house (below) it looks like you have only a crawl space above the house with even less above the garage. At least a rectangular hole with a removable panel but even better would be a pull-down ladder. A few pieces of plywood in the attic would give you storage space for a lot of bulky but lightweight stuff (the interior of my project car is up in my garage attic space)....
I don't find sheet rock work that hard, especially with an oscillating multi-tool with a real thin blade. Minimizes dust and the cut-out pieces can go right back where they came out with minimal tape and mud. A damp sanding sponge can level and smooth the dried mud with zero dust as well.
I went up in the attic to assess the situation and the crawl space above the attic is very difficult to get to. I think I'm going to cut in an attic access panel. What direction in relation to joists do I cut my opening?
Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Re: The Little Vintage Garage.
I can't tell what kind of construction you have but I assume you have trusses holding up your garage roof and if so they are likely 24" on center, which means the space between them is a little less. Even if you aren't planning a pull-down ladder right away, I would frame the opening as if you were installing one.
In the picture of my attic ladder, the trusses are running left to right, which is why the ladder is installed that way. it clears the opener track on the left and the roller track on the right but just barely.
Attic ladders come in different lengths and widths. One model fits in a 18" x 24" opening but the most common ones fit in a 54" long opening (22-1/2“ x 54”, 25” x 54”, 25-1/2” x 64” and 30” x 54”). The first (narrowest) one is meant for 24" on center truss or rafter spacing. The opening for this attic ladder should be 22.5-in wide X 54-in long so you want to cut 54" along the truss to have a joist on either side of the long opening dimension. You'll also need a couple of 2x4s (or 2x6, 2x88 or 2x10 if your joist/rafter is that big) to frame the ends of the opening.
These instructions from Home Depot should help:
http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdfImages/1a/1ad974f3-92c3-4d48-88b4-4c2f5bf2893e.pdf
There are also quite a few videos showing the process:
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/video/0,,20047183,00.html
All of the instructions and videos recommend two people be involved in the install. If you are stubborn or stupid like me, you can ignore that advice and do it by yourself but at some point in the process you will probably regret going that route. If you choose a wooden ladder (20-pounds heavier than the aluminum) it might involve more consequences than just regret.
Bagged:
I can't tell what kind of construction you have but I assume you have trusses holding up your garage roof and if so they are likely 24" on center, which means the space between them is a little less. Even if you aren't planning a pull-down ladder right away, I would frame the opening as if you were installing one.
In the picture of my attic ladder, the trusses are running left to right, which is why the ladder is installed that way. it clears the opener track on the left and the roller track on the right but just barely.
Attic ladders come in different lengths and widths. One model fits in a 18" x 24" opening but the most common ones fit in a 54" long opening (22-1/2“ x 54”, 25” x 54”, 25-1/2” x 64” and 30” x 54”). The first (narrowest) one is meant for 24" on center truss or rafter spacing. The opening for this attic ladder should be 22.5-in wide X 54-in long so you want to cut 54" along the truss to have a joist on either side of the long opening dimension. You'll also need a couple of 2x4s (or 2x6, 2x88 or 2x10 if your joist/rafter is that big) to frame the ends of the opening.
These instructions from Home Depot should help:
http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdfImages/1a/1ad974f3-92c3-4d48-88b4-4c2f5bf2893e.pdf
There are also quite a few videos showing the process:
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/video/0,,20047183,00.html
All of the instructions and videos recommend two people be involved in the install. If you are stubborn or stupid like me, you can ignore that advice and do it by yourself but at some point in the process you will probably regret going that route. If you choose a wooden ladder (20-pounds heavier than the aluminum) it might involve more consequences than just regret.
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jbmatth
Well-known member
Re: The Little Vintage Garage.
Along the same lines of the attic ladder I would go for the aluminum one, it is more expensive, but will hold more weight, is lighter, and from my experience it is more sturdy. Just my two cents,
JB
Along the same lines of the attic ladder I would go for the aluminum one, it is more expensive, but will hold more weight, is lighter, and from my experience it is more sturdy. Just my two cents,
JB
OP
bagged89s10
Well-known member
The Little Vintage Garage.
So I my trusses are 16" on center. I really don't want to cut a truss for attic access, and I don't want deal with all my wiring in exposed conduit. So I went up to the attic and did further inspection. Here are the pictures. I should be able to fish wiring thru the walls. The hardest part will be the back wall of the garage. I think it will be easier and cleaner to crawl around up there and drop the wiring between the stud bays versus cutting and patching a bunch of drywall.
So I my trusses are 16" on center. I really don't want to cut a truss for attic access, and I don't want deal with all my wiring in exposed conduit. So I went up to the attic and did further inspection. Here are the pictures. I should be able to fish wiring thru the walls. The hardest part will be the back wall of the garage. I think it will be easier and cleaner to crawl around up there and drop the wiring between the stud bays versus cutting and patching a bunch of drywall.
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Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Re: The Little Vintage Garage.
The good news is that you have a sturdy structure. You might still want to add an opening in the garage ceiling. When you are preparing to work up there, it would be easy to put all the tools up there before you make the long crawl from the house dragging a tool belt or bag. You could also use the opening to deliver some insulation bats. Insulating the garage ceiling makes it a much more comfortable place to work -- warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer. My insulated 3-car maintains a 20-degree difference to the outside temperature in the winter with no heat and a small window A/C unit does the same in the summer.
The good news is that you have a sturdy structure. You might still want to add an opening in the garage ceiling. When you are preparing to work up there, it would be easy to put all the tools up there before you make the long crawl from the house dragging a tool belt or bag. You could also use the opening to deliver some insulation bats. Insulating the garage ceiling makes it a much more comfortable place to work -- warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer. My insulated 3-car maintains a 20-degree difference to the outside temperature in the winter with no heat and a small window A/C unit does the same in the summer.
OP
bagged89s10
Well-known member
Re: The Little Vintage Garage.
Yes, no doubt my house and garage were built very well. The builder did not cut any corners on the structure from what I've seen. In fact, the main support beam in the basement is a steel ibeam.
I plan to insulate the ceiling sometime this year. I will add insulation to the main homes ceiling when I do so. I think I will forgo cutting a hole in the garage ceiling. I researched and found out many building codes don't allow attic access in the garage if the garage attic connects to the attic of the main home. And mine does.
Yes, no doubt my house and garage were built very well. The builder did not cut any corners on the structure from what I've seen. In fact, the main support beam in the basement is a steel ibeam.
I plan to insulate the ceiling sometime this year. I will add insulation to the main homes ceiling when I do so. I think I will forgo cutting a hole in the garage ceiling. I researched and found out many building codes don't allow attic access in the garage if the garage attic connects to the attic of the main home. And mine does.
rodbuilderjim
Member
Re: The Little Vintage Garage.
Bagged,
Just finished the thread and I love the work you are doing! I have been building Street Rods professional for almost 18 years now and the attention to detail you put into your vises is what sets them apart. I just started my own shop about 1 1/2 years ago and had almost no equipment and no money so I started scrounging whenever I could. I have been able to collect the things that I need for the most part and am starting to do like you and sell off some of the beginning equipment as I find new and better stuff.
Keep up the good work!!
Bagged,
Just finished the thread and I love the work you are doing! I have been building Street Rods professional for almost 18 years now and the attention to detail you put into your vises is what sets them apart. I just started my own shop about 1 1/2 years ago and had almost no equipment and no money so I started scrounging whenever I could. I have been able to collect the things that I need for the most part and am starting to do like you and sell off some of the beginning equipment as I find new and better stuff.
Keep up the good work!!
OP
bagged89s10
Well-known member
Re: The Little Vintage Garage.
So I have the heater mounted where I think is the best place for it. Next I will run power to this corner of the garage. My plan is to run a 220/240volt 30 amp circuit to an outlet for welder/plasma. Then wire up to the heater with a cut off switch.
So I have the heater mounted where I think is the best place for it. Next I will run power to this corner of the garage. My plan is to run a 220/240volt 30 amp circuit to an outlet for welder/plasma. Then wire up to the heater with a cut off switch.
