Vehicle Lift

[Cr0ck1]

Is there a thread here on point A to point B on choosing a lift, to the brand to final install?

Debating on saving up for one.

I know it needs a concrete slab ect..

Thx ahead
-carl


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[kaymccampbell]

Dozens. Search function works great.

 

[vettex2]

What do you want?
There are numerous options

 

[lakeroadster]

The Top 10 Things You Need To Know Before Buying A Lift (10 to 6)

Link To Article

"It’s no fun spending a small bundle of moolah on what should be one of the best purchases of your life, only to be let down by the reality of an underpowered auto lift or a disreputable automotive equipment company. Here at BendPak, we hate it when we hear about fellow auto-enthusiasts getting burned by a bad deal. That’s why we devised the following checklist to help you avoid an unfavorable fate and get the car lift of your dreams.

But please, keep in mind that this is just a place to start. The first and final step will always be research. Be an informed consumer, not a victim.

10. Availability of information

Because research is such a large part of your decision-making process, you should be wary of car lift companies that don’t offer you much in the way of product and company information. Reputable car lift companies are proud of their products, features and corporate achievements, so they publicly stand behind them. Generally, they’ll want to get the word out about their products to as many people as possible. If you are attempting to research an automotive lift company and you find yourself on page six of Google with no real useful information, chances are they are hiding something. Some companies will also attempt to force you to call in for more information. More often or not, this is an attempt to sell you based on salesmanship over features. Don’t be caught in the trap. When it’s easy to find the information you are looking for, you can be confident you are on the right track.

9. Who REALLY made this lift

This one comes straight off the previous tip. There should always be a lift manufacturing company proudly placing their name on a prospective car lift. Unfortunately, many lift “brands” are just labels fabricated by small time warehouse dealers, deceptively supplying these products as their own. The car lifts are actually manufactured offshore in factory sweatshops with little or no regard to worldwide standards. If you find an auto lift that interests you, be sure to search for an informative and detailed manufacturing company website or at least a brochure. Also check to see if there are multiple dealers selling the brand in your country. Some of these shady dealers will bill themselves as “exclusive suppliers,” but the truth of the matter is that if they were pedaling a truly superior product, the manufacturer would attempt to expand their business to incorporate as many dealers as possible. If you can’t find solid, verifiable information relating to the actual manufacturer of any given automotive lift or if only a very limited number of dealers even sell the lift, you are probably best off searching for alternative options.

8. Know thy garage

Sometimes sheer enthusiasm will overshadow what’s physically feasible. It’s important not to get carried away. Measure, re-measure, and re-re-measure your garage. Car lift alterations are sometimes possible, but they are rare and always costly. Double-check with local installers to find out the minimum space required to work on your new auto lift. Triple-check the physical dimensions of your favored car lift either online or over the phone. If you can, find out if anyone nearby, such as a dealership or a neighbor, already has the automotive lift you’ve got your eye on. Most lift owners are extremely proud of their car lifts and will probably be happy to give you a quick tour. Also, make sure you know where your electricity is, if you need a compressor to operate the locks and if your concrete can handle the bolts, should you be required to secure your auto lift to the floor. Basically, it comes down to really getting acquainted with your garage. One great way to keep track of everything is with a quick-reference notebook containing some of the more important dimensions of your garage, so that you are prepared with your install-site information at all times.

7. Company reputation

When you dig deeper than the marketing hype, you’ll quickly discover what others are saying about the company that makes your prospective auto lift. Online garage-themed message boards are often a fantastic resource for unfiltered opinions about your potential car lift purchase. However, it is important to realize that the condemnation or praise will often be more extreme than reality. By all means, use opinions as an additional source of information in your quest for the best car lift, but always be aware that the truth is usually somewhere in the middle. And also be on the lookout for potential shills—salesmen posing as concerned community members to make their products look better than the competition. Request proof in the form of pictures should you have any doubt about bold statements. Also, be sure to consider how long the company has been in business, as that is usually directly tied to their reputation. The longer they’ve been around, the more likely it is that they’ve taken the time to develop positive customer relationships. Established automotive lift companies also have a better chance of being around in the future to honor warranties, replace parts and generally provide solid customer service should the need arise.

6. The right price

It might seem obvious, but it bears repeating. Make sure that the value that you are getting out of your car lift matches how much you are going to pay. It doesn’t hurt to shop around for the best deal, as long as you stick to a pre-determined list of essentials that you are unwilling to compromise on. Remember: the best car lift for you will rarely, if ever, be the most expensive car lift or the cheapest car lift. Instead, it will be right where the cost meets the benefit—exactly where it should be. You get what you pay for and maybe a little more if you catch a retailer during a sale."

 

[lakeroadster]

The Top 10 Things You Need To Know Before Buying A Lift (5 through 1)

Link To Article

"5. The warranty

Even the best automotive lift in the world is still just a machine, so it’s susceptible to human-error and unexpected failures (though potential devastating Best Warranty Car Lifts - BendPakeffects can be greatly minimized with the correct systems in place—more on that below). Honest car lift companies realize this and offer warranties on the frame, the moving parts and the labor at varying levels depending on their pricing structures. Warranties usually come standard with purchase, but can often be extended to cover years or even the entire life of the auto lift in some cases. Take this as a good sign that the car lift manufacturer not only stands behind their product, but is willing to put their money where their collective mouth is. Just don’t forget to research how long an auto lift business has been around to determine if it’s the real deal or all just empty promises.

4. The ALI seal of approval

The Automotive Lift Institute’s certification is the only nationally recognized standard for car lifts of all designs. They are a non-partial coalition of engineers, designers, industry experts and professionals who rely on third-party laboratory testing methods to recommend and test industry-class safety measures far above those set by any government or municipal agency. What happens when you purchase a non-approved car lift? We urge you to investigate thoroughly as many business owners quickly find themselves on the short end of a long battle once their local inspectors levy penalties for non-compliance or worse yet, shut down their business entirely. Yes, it can and does happen.

Nonetheless, ALI / ETL certification is a hot-button issue in the automotive lifting industry. It’s no easy feat to join the Automotive Lift Institute, let alone build a car lift that passes certification. Aside from the expenses involved, ALI sets extremely strict UL, ETL and ANSI manufacturing safety standards that must be met in order to qualify for certification. While you’re on the hunt for the perfect automotive lift, it’s very likely that you’ll find a plethora of non-certified lifts out on the market.

ALI standard exists for one reason: to make car lifts as safe as possible for people who aren’t able to eyeball good or bad mechanical workmanship from a mile away. If you happen to be an expert on engineering, tensile strengths and redundant safety systems under load, then you might feel comfortable purchasing an automotive lift that hasn’t been certified. But if you want a safe piece of garage equipment along with peace of mind, your best bet is to go with an ALI / ETL approved car lift. Remember, the largest and most respected auto lift brands in the world are members of the Automotive Lift Institute and submit to ALI testing and retesting for just about every product they develop, so clearly it’s a priority to them. It’s up to you to decide how big of a priority ALI / ETL certification is to you, personally. That’s what will help you ultimately make your decision while you’re trying to decide on which auto lift to purchase.

Naturally, we recommend that you give a strong preference to ALI / ETL certified car lifts, or at the very least, to a name you’ve got a good reason to trust.

For more information on BendPak’s stand, read here.

3. Customer support

This goes hand in hand with reputation. Sure, lots of car lift companies will be sweet as sugar when they are taking your cash, but where are they when something doesn’t exactly go according to plan? Once again, it all goes back to research. By now, you’ve probably narrowed down your selection to a couple of options. Go ahead and read up on what each prospective company offers in the way of customer support, but don’t forget to call into their support number, too. Once you get a hold of someone on the other end, you should be able to gauge fairly quickly their general attitude, if they have a multi-location service network geographically located across all parts of the country, if they are located in the US and their overall knowledgeability about products and services. Quiz them a little bit about their return policy, their warranties, how quickly they can get a repair part to you or have someone come out and look at your equipment should you have a problem. Let’s be honest, in the event that you need to talk to someone, you’re patience is going to be under much more strain then when you do your test call. If you find yourself frustrated during this little exercise, chances are you’re looking at the wrong company.

2. The features you want

If the car lift you buy doesn’t have the features you wanted, what the heck did you get it for in the first place!

This requires a little bit of foresight on your part. Not only do you have to determine the heaviest thing you’re likely going to need to lift, but also how closely the vehicle runs to the ground, the physical dimensions of the largest and the smallest vehicle you’re going to lift and whether or not you’re going to want to easily move your car lift around on casters. Your best bet for future-proofing your car lift is to go with a manufacturer who not only has the features you want, but also offers a lot of optional equipment in the event your needs change. Find out if your chosen automotive lift company offers extra tall, extra wide, short, narrow, asymmetrical and clearfloor model versions to better fit your personal automotive lifting needs. Ask if they offer truck and van adapters, telescoping arms, bridge jacks, specialized contact pads, casters and frame extensions. Your lift’s ability to adapt to the new and unexpected will be the key to your satisfaction for years to come.

1. Real engineering

Finally, do not settle for a piece of rebranded generic junk. Make sure your prospective car lift came from the minds and hands of a dedicated team of engineers who were dead-set on making their auto lift the best it could be. If someone took pride in designing your automotive lift, chances are you’ll take lots of pride in owning it. Also, lifting operation tends to be much smoother when human minds thought more about how you were going to use the lift and less about shoving a product out the door.

Follow these ten guidelines and you’re practically guaranteed to end up with the car lift that’s just right for you. And for some information on how BendPak stacks against the rest, check out A Study In Lift Design."

 

[lakeroadster]

How to Install an Automotive Lift

Link To Article

"DEGREE OF DIFFICULTY: 9/10

1) How to Install an Automotive Lift

Auto lifts make every project easier—no more jacks and jackstands, bending over, or squeezing under a car for service. So why doesn't everyone have one? What used to be expensive, impossible to fit in most garages, hard to install, and dangerous to work with is now within reach of the advanced do-it-yourselfer. Global competition has driven down the cost of a very serious, good-quality, entry-level lift to under $1500—totally affordable. Innovative manufacturers have also developed a variety of lifts to match every garage and skill level. We're going to show you how to stop crawling around under the car and start working on your feet.

There are several types of lifts to choose from. For the new POPULAR MECHANICS garage in Ferndale, Mich., we installed a 9000-pound two-post 12-inch symmetrical lift with a 220-volt hydraulic pump (we never know what vehicles are going to roll in). A two-poster is one of the most versatile kinds of lifts and the one most people choose.

The first order of business is receiving and unboxing. Lifts aren't exactly feather-light, and they are shipped in big wooden crates—so make sure the shipper sends a truck-mounted crane or forklift to do the unloading. Also, have four furniture dollies (trust me, it'll be worth it) to drop it onto and roll the crate into the garage. Then tear open the box and sit down to read the instructions. No, really, actually read them.

The individual installation steps aren't hard (well, most of them), but pay careful attention to detail. We are talking about a potentially dangerous machine, so take your time.

Nick Ferrari

2) Stage 1: Assemble the Metal Frame

Keep individual components square and in alignment with each other. Tighten all bolts by hand and check for alignment and basic range of motion, then finish by torquing all bolts to spec.

Brian Kelly

3) Stage 2: Install the Functional Hardware

Balancing cables, safety locks, and hydraulic systems can all be hooked up while the lift is still on the ground. The cables serve to keep each lifting carriage at equal levels so the car doesn't rise unevenly. These are mounted with a bolt end, nut, and lock nut and should be run through the pulley system as directed. Tension the cables lightly to keep them in place.

Mechanical locking mechanisms increase safety and the life of cylinders, hoses, and fittings by transferring weight off the hydraulic system and onto pins that move a car's weight to the posts. A lever, pins, springs, and a thin cable running through the top plate connect both sides.

Auto-lift hydraulics have only one high-pressure line (no return line as on tractors). Pressure to the hydraulic cylinders lifts the car, and its weight provides the force to compress the cylinders and lower the car. Attach the hydraulic lines at the cylinder bases, then mount the pump and fluid reservoir. Connect the pump outlet to the hose and tighten all joints.

Brian Kelly


4) Stage 3: Raise the Lift

With the lift mostly assembled and ready to go up, mark the floor for placement. Use a plumb bob, a measuring tape, a chalk line, and a permanent marker to draw out the end positions of the columns. Remember to account for the car approaching the lift, so keep turns or corners in mind when orienting the layout.

Raising the lift is serious business. Invite at least six strong friends over to help. Overwhelming manpower and coordination are key. Work together to raise the lift into position, and be careful not to let its inertia tip it over onto the other side. Once it's upright it'll stay up all by itself. Use a mallet to tap the columns into exact position.

Rent or borrow an SDS Max rotary hammer (standard ¾-inch chuck size) to do the hole-making, along with a masonry bit. Drill through the mounting-plate holes to prevent alignment issues and stay as vertical as possible. Drill all the way through the concrete and wear safety gear, keeping the powdered concrete clear of the hole. Three-quarter-inch wedge anchors are almost universally recommended for auto lifts—concrete will fail before these pull out. Put a nut on the anchor just flush with the end and pound the bolt down to the mounting plate. If the anchor is damaged, you can drive it down into the dirt and set an undamaged one on top of it. Torque all the nuts to spec. Check the columns for plumb—they should be at 90 degrees vertical in all directions; if they aren't, level with the included shims. Unbolt the anchors, add a few shims, torque the anchors, and measure again.

Brian Kelly

5) Stage 4: Wrap It Up and Get To Work

Finishing includes hiring a qualified electrician to install power to the pump and a plug at the column so that 220-volt power is nearby for a welder. Have a friend help by positioning the base of the lift arm with the holes in the lifting carriage while you drop the huge pins through the holes; jiggle the arm until the pin seats. Install the retaining clips and the mounting pads. Your lift is now physically complete.

Fill the hydraulic reservoir and cycle the cylinders while the system is unladen. This clears air in the hoses, which can cause choppy, uneven lifting. Check that the safety mechanisms work properly—go over every nut and bolt and inspect for hydraulic leaks. Park the lift arms on the ground and tension the control cables as directed by the installation manual. Test the lift with your least-loved car. Bring it off the ground until the first lock engages and release hydraulic pressure. The car should settle evenly; if it doesn't, you need to adjust the control cables. Shake the car back and forth and watch the columns to make sure they're stable. If it checks out, take the vehicle up to the top and begin working on its nagging problems.

Brian Kelly

6) Uplifting Options

Researching and selecting the right lift is the challenging first step of the process. Balancing multiple priorities and technical restrictions while keeping an eye on the budget is tricky. What will you be doing with a lift? Do you need full access to the underside of the car or just enough to do brake jobs and tire rotations? Doing restorations or just regular maintenance? Would an extra parking spot in your garage be nice? How big are the cars you'll work on?

What about the shop? What's the width, depth, and height? What is the electrical service? How thick is the concrete slab; is it cracked, overly coarse, out of level? Think all this through, then match the lift to your shop and needs.

TWO-POST LIFT

Two-posts use two hydraulic cylinders to power four arms to lift the car in a compact space. These lifts have a wide range of capacities, install easily, and leave all the car's mechanical systems accessible. There are several types. Base-plates run safety cables and hydraulic lines at floor level, and their shorter posts fit in lower garages. Overheads run those features in a brace tying the posts together at the top for more stability but require more clearance. Symmetrical lifts have equal-length arms and carry heavier loads, but car doors hit the posts. Asymmetrical lifts use unequal-length arms so car doors miss the posts. Floors must be well-cured, crack-free concrete, 4 inches minimum (6 is better) for anchors.

FOUR-POST LIFT

Surprise—this type of lift uses four posts, one in each corner, to support service and storage. Force comes from a single hydraulic cylinder driving a maze of high-strength steel cable guided by pulleys. These lifts are excellent for powertrain and exhaust work but difficult for suspension maintenance. Vehicles are driven onto the lift and serviced without the suspension being decompressed. A four-post lift is expensive but can be used on floors with surface-quality and thickness problems, since the load is distributed more evenly and doesn't have to be anchored down. Optional accessories include casters that allow the lift to be moved and jacks to raise the car off its suspension for complete service.

MIDRISE/SCISSOR LIFT

The least expensive of the group (entry models start at under $1200) and the least versatile, the scissor lift, or midrise lift, packs the machinery in its center, so there's no reliable way to work on the underside of the car. It is the easiest to install though, normally requiring only 120-volt power, 3 inches of solid concrete, and minimal overhead clearance. This lift works by using hydraulics to open a scissor mechanism, and the car rests atop two platforms that fit inside its wheelbase. If all you want is an easy time of lifting a vehicle off all four wheels or of getting it up to a comfortable working height for brake, tire, suspension, or body work, the scissor-type lift is a good choice.

Vic Kulihin"

 

[Cr0ck1]

Well i have a toyota tundra but am going to eventually get a Ford f250 superduty. So need to lift that.


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