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Vent fan for garage

Sumboodie

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I brought a carb to rebuild in my garage last night and now have a bit of a gas smell in the house. Likely from going in and out of the garage.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T75SS7V/?tag=atomicindus08-20

How would a fan like in the link that mount on a 2x6 insulated wall?
Any expectations of the shutters being sealed reasonably well or will it pretty much be a 12" hole in the wall when it's -30*?

Thinking it'd work great for moving fumes plus humidity when a snowy car is parked to thaw.
 
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kbs2244

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Huge overkill
I would expect a vented, over the stove, style fan placed over the workbench would be enough.
 

nadogail

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I open the big door facing the alley and the man door on the opposite wall. The ocean breeze makes the stuff in the air go away.
 

brownbagg

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i bought a 24inch, made in america, pay a little more just for that, no, made in china and assemble in america about 20 miles from mexico. ok, so I got a bad taste over it, but its works ok, no issues except amazon
but the point, its twin brother is sold by tractor supply about $200 for a 24 inch
 
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Sumboodie

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I open the big door facing the alley and the man door on the opposite wall. The ocean breeze makes the stuff in the air go away.

Fine when it's nice out, but this is for the other 7-8 months a year that it's cold outside.
 
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Sumboodie

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I use a bathroom fan in my little 12x20 and it keep some good air circulating.

No where near enough air flow.

A bathroom is maybe 700-900 cubic feet.
The garage is 5600.

Something in the 1000-2000 cfm area probably would be reasonable for most purposes.
 

jmiller_2308

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That fan is similar to the one I have. I really like the controller on it as well as the multiple fan speeds. Mine is a single speed and is quite loud but does indeed cycle the air well. I don't know how big your space is but for my 900 sqft I have a 14" fan and it is adequate; I wish it were bigger and moved more air. With that controller you could certainly go big and then run slow if you didn't need full capacity.

The fan shutters do make it better than a hole in the wall but there will still be some pretty significant heat loss if for no reason other than you lose 6" of insulation. On my fan the shutters open by the fan blowing on them rather than with a mechanical arm. That means that outside wind can also move the shutters and that means that the shutters don't do that great of a job of keeping wind out. My fan was a green house fan and came with an additional mechanical shutter that was much better at keeping wind from blowing in and that might be an option for you.

My fan is currently installed in the ceiling and blowing into the attic. I would have preferred a wall installation but this way minimizes the energy loss of having wind blowing and opening the shutters.
 
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Sumboodie

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Looking at an 8" unit that would live in the attic and vent outside.

I think that may be a bit better heat wise. 800cfm, so a full air change in 7 mins.

I think if it's more fumes than that, can open the door for min or two.
 

glentre

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You haven't mentioned it, but with weather sometimes at -30* in your area and an attached garage, I imagine you likely have at least some heat in the work area. Pulling even warmish humid air (from car snowmelt) out of the garage through gravity louvers with -30* outside will likely condense and freeze on the louvers and probably make them stick in the open position. If you're working on carbs or using smelly cleaners every day, then some action to remove the smell might be wise but installing an exhaust fan for occasional carb work is an overkill. I would think you have a far more serious problem with condensation all over everything if you open your big doors when you have -30* very dry air outside and high humidity in the garage. If you want to extract 800 cfm from the space, that air has to come from outside, be it from an air intake opening or through infiltration around your doors and windows. Other guys from the cold northern states might want to chime in with their experience with the problem of trying to ventilate a shop during extremely cold outdoor weather.

Glen
 
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Sumboodie

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You haven't mentioned it, but with weather sometimes at -30* in your area and an attached garage, I imagine you likely have at least some heat in the work area. Pulling even warmish humid air (from car snowmelt) out of the garage through gravity louvers with -30* outside will likely condense and freeze on the louvers and probably make them stick in the open position. If you're working on carbs or using smelly cleaners every day, then some action to remove the smell might be wise but installing an exhaust fan for occasional carb work is an overkill. I would think you have a far more serious problem with condensation all over everything if you open your big doors when you have -30* very dry air outside and high humidity in the garage. If you want to extract 800 cfm from the space, that air has to come from outside, be it from an air intake opening or through infiltration around your doors and windows. Other guys from the cold northern states might want to chime in with their experience with the problem of trying to ventilate a shop during extremely cold outdoor weather.

Glen

Yes, heated floor in garage. 24x26 roughly. 9ft ceiling.

-30* would be rare, maybe 3-5 days a year we are around that. More usual is single digit negative temps and positive temps.

Gas/diesel, Painting, welding, grinding, sawdust, etc

When the temps are nice, no issue with having the doors open or even working outside.

Use a dehumidifier for snowmelt, but it's expensive to run. If it's not used, it gets very humid and the windows get iced over and the doors sweat too and freeze shut.

No floor drain which doesn't help. On septic and was told by builder it wasn't allowed.

Figure if it's running 10 hrs a day, that's about $45 a month in power. Don't think it'd cost that to heat the air with a vent fan.
HRV would take care of the heat loss, but they are expensive and aren't designed to flow air to clear fumes.

In my house I just have attic to heated space makeup baffles and 2 bath fans with humidstats.

Will put a makeup air baffle inlet if infiltration isn't enough.
 
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harley jim

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I have one similar to the one in your attachment, mine is a manual pull chain 3 speed. It will move a lot of air which is what I needed, I weld a lot. Mine makes more noise than the average wife would tolerate in an attached garage if you catch my drift. I like clearing the fumes quickly but there will be a trade off. Just my two cents.

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dmcintosh

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Smyrna, DE
I used one that style in my last garage, and loved it - moved lots of air and in my case was too good of a deal to pass up (free when it was replaced at work due to some rust on the cage around the fan blades). Had that set up for a few years. Toyed with the idea of building a box out of rigid foam to cover the fan opening from the inside in the winter, but it never seemed to be that much of an issue with cold so never got around to it. I prefer the move the air when I need it quickly so would rather a large fan.
 

LS6 Tommy

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There's no weather seals on the dampers. That's not the end of the world, but its does make a difference.

Tommy
 

finn

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I have a Dayton fan, probably 18-20” mounted on the gable end wall in my shop.

Really flows the air. The Louvues open when the fan runs.

A couple of years ago I happened to look up one chilly, and windy, but sunny winter day (about -15 degrees) and noticed that the Venturi effect of the wind was sucking the louvres open. I swear I could see dollar bills flying out through the fan. I ended up sealing the opening with a piece of foam board. It will stay sealed until I figure out a way to box it in and make an easy opening door around it.
 
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Sumboodie

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I'm probably going to go with a ceiling mounted vent, 8" fan in the attic, and it vent out the gable of the attic.

Will be a bit better as far as cold air infiltration. Not as good for air movement (800cfm), but I can always open a door for a few mins to clear out the worst of it if it's too much for the fan.

I need to find an 8" flapper like a bath fan would have so it'd block the airflow near the vent if the fan isn't on.
 

kaymccampbell

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I like old furnace fans. I put a sealed fan louver on the outside wall. It keeps the worst out. I find it misbehaves when a northeast wind hits about 45. Otherwise it's pretty good.
 

FredWanaker

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open door so the gas doesn't get ignited by a fan, then use a fan to blow the fumes out. I keep the side door open when working with a carb. Also drain the carb outside before you bring it in to work on it. 3 tablespoons of gasoline is like 1 stick of dynamite.
 
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Sumboodie

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open door so the gas doesn't get ignited by a fan, then use a fan to blow the fumes out. I keep the side door open when working with a carb. Also drain the carb outside before you bring it in to work on it. 3 tablespoons of gasoline is like 1 stick of dynamite.

Sure, and even less diesel.

Carburetor was just an example from a few days ago. Today was a transmission and welding.
 

lml999

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Cape Cod, MA
Looking at an 8" unit that would live in the attic and vent outside.

Are you talking about a garage ceiling penetration, pulling air into the attic?

That might violate building code...

If you had a fire in the garage while you're working on your carburetor, that fan will pull the fire into your attic and then the whole structure is gonzo.

Might want to rethink that...
 

Buckgnarly

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I put a 12" fan on a side wall with exterior hood and interior insulated box.
 

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Kaizen

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Gas/diesel, Painting, welding, grinding, sawdust, etc

.


Same stuff in my shop. I’m going to keep the exhaust below ceiling as I’m nervous about a fire. Sawdust and an errant grinding spark is what I lose sleep over.
Waiting till I have ceiling up and going to run a duct along one wall with one exit hole.



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Sumboodie

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Are you talking about a garage ceiling penetration, pulling air into the attic?

That might violate building code...

If you had a fire in the garage while you're working on your carburetor, that fan will pull the fire into your attic and then the whole structure is gonzo.

Might want to rethink that...

Wouldn't be any different that a bathroom fan though?
 

shepner

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FWIW, I have a pair of variable speed ValuTek direct drive fans with shutters (very similar to this). The intent is to use them for cooling (I have a pair of variable speed thermostats) as well as a quick way to deal with smoke and such.

My fans are built into a wall near the peak. While the shutters do not have weather strip on them but the rest of the garage is fairly tight. The thermometer I stuck next to them this winter was reading the same temp as everywhere else in the structure. That said, I still want to build some foam boxes to go around them when not in use.

The reason I went with this particular fan is because I got the the smaller version for my greenhouse 12yr+ ago. Thats a rougher service than what the garage will see and the motor is still going strong. All the other fans Ive used with cheaper motors failed long ago

stephen
 

LS6 Tommy

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Are you talking about a garage ceiling penetration, pulling air into the attic?

That might violate building code...

Tjernlund makes a unit that does that exact thing and meets code, but IIRC its designed for garages that have unattached attics and it has fire dampers.

Tommy
 

PoorUB

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Fargo, ND
A large bath fan, running constantly should keep the garage in a negative pressure, roughly 100 CFM. That would keep the stink out of the house. A second larger fan would be nice for when you really need to exhaust air, but you can just open the door at that point.

The problem is some of the odors from cleaners linger for days and you don't want to exhaust a bunch of air constantly, just enough to keep the air moving from the house to the garage.
 
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