Vent pipe thru metal siding

[jd4020]

Planning to pickup a Beacon Morris 75k heater this weekend. This will be going in my pole building with metal ribbed sidewalls. How is the best way to penetrate the metal sidewall? I will be using 4" CATIII vent pipe. Should I cut the metal to exact fit around the pipe, and then caulk? I will not have any insulation or combustibles near the pipe exit. I know that they make a wall thimble, but I don't think that helps me with this. My concern would be heat from the vent pipe discoloring my metal on the outside.

I plan to run horizontal, thru the wall, and then 90 upright outside of the building, then rain cap it. Any issues with this, or should I just do a horizontal only?

 

[rburke65]

No help here butim sure some one will chime in. Welcome from Ohio! Is nothing offered for vent solutions from the mfg?

 

[finn]

I used a hole saw.

Read the instructions with the BM closely: the 75K unit may require a transition to 5"... not sure about that, though.

 

[Rookie2]

mine is horz. and touching about 270 deg. , no paint discoloration after 10 + years. make sure you go vertical ,the moisture will enter the soffit vents if you don't get above the gutter. Also screen the cap.

 

[AlbertaSS]

I did the same thing you are doing, with ribbed metal exterior on my shop. I used a thimble. Marked it out on the outside, drilled a few holes in the metal and used a good pair of snips to cut the hole out. I "peened" the outer piece of the thimble to fit around the ribs to push everything tight to the exterior metal and used a few stainless 9/16" screws to hold it all in place. It turned out really nice. Caulked around the pipe with high temp rtv and clear silicone where the thimble piece meets the wall.
I ran the end of the pipe horizontally 16" past the eave and have no problems with exhaust entering the soffit. I also cut the exterior metal so the thimble piece is right up against it where it goes through the wall, no problems. That's the nice thing about using a thimble, the clearance is built into it.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Two of my posts in THIS THREAD may help you get some ideas.

POST #36

and POST #38.

You might consider these caulkings..........

https://www.rutland.com/p/3/500-degree-f-rtv-high-heat-silicone-sealant

https://rutland.com/p/4/600-degree-f-rtv-high-heat-silicone-sealant

 

[nehog]

I used a hole saw.

Read the instructions with the BM closely: the 75K unit may require a transition to 5"... not sure about that, though.

My setup was about six inches, and I used a Dremel with a cutoff disk to cut the hole (done this many times). I then used small (about 1.5 inch) angles riveted to the metal wall spaced around the hole, and a large hose clamp to lock the pipe in place. High temp silicone sealed up the hole so there was minimal chance of rain coming down the side and into the inside insulation.

 

[jd4020]

Thanks for the ideas guys. That gives me a few different options. I'll see what works best for my setup.

How many of you ran your own gas line? My meter is directly outside where my heater will go. I just need to run the line up the wall and over about 4 feet to the heater. Just wondering if this is something I should leave to an installer? I don't question my ability, but just for liability or unseen issues.