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venting help for mr heater,....

mailman62

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Joined
Jan 14, 2009
Messages
12
got a 4500 lp mr heater and vertical vent kit , my question is about vent kit,. it has two 3 ft. sections of single wall pipe and one section of 3 ft. double wall pipe, do I need to use the double wall piece? or can I JUST GO WITH THE 2 SECTIONS of single wall through roof right to the cap?::
 
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mulepackin

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Dec 13, 2006
Messages
909
Location
Montana
You need to use double wall vent pipe anywhere it penetrates your structure. For example in my garage, I have double wall going through the finished ceiling, through the attic and through the roof. I used triple all the way to the terminal cap since it was just a few more feet.
 

rickairmedic

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May 31, 2005
Messages
4,165
Location
louisville ,Ky
I will add by code you are technically not supposed to have more than 3' of singlewall pipe connected to a fossil fuel heater. You can come out of the unit 3' with singlewall from there you should run doublewall all the way to the cap at the least tripple wall isnt required . The 3' also includes 90's which are considered 1' by themselves. This means if you have 3 singlewall 90's thats 3' and you now are supposed to go to doublewall


Rick
 

rickairmedic

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May 31, 2005
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Location
louisville ,Ky
Mailman let me also add you should have a minimum of 1" clearance around the vent pipe anywhere it penetrates something such as a drywall ceiling or the roof.

Rick
 

RAMBIN

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Jan 5, 2006
Messages
133
Location
canada
i believe the thimbol adds that 1" so u have no choice on that matter... now if someone had some pics how they finished off there vinyl siding where the pipe came out on a horizontal run...i'd definatly like to see that
 
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krooser

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Jun 3, 2005
Messages
2,377
Location
Waupaca, Wisconsin
Geez... my horizontal vent kit came with all single wall vent with a wall thimble. Seems to be OK around here since almost everybody has the same set-up for their shop heaters, radiant tube heaters and the like. I bought my kit from the heater manufacturer.
 

Mellotron

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Joined
Dec 24, 2008
Messages
104
Location
Central Oregon
My Horizontal Kit from Mr. Heater came with a length of double wall for penetration and some single for interior. And a crappy thimble. It would have been cheaper to hit the box store. Lesson learned.
 

dipper

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Joined
Jun 27, 2007
Messages
759
Location
Rochester, NY
Iron_786-
Here's what I did, but i may change it this summer by pulling the siding off and using some j-channel around a rectangular piece of wood so it looks better.

dsc03562.jpg


more pics are here
http://www.geocities.com/lobotie/Garage/garage14.html
 

RAMBIN

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Joined
Jan 5, 2006
Messages
133
Location
canada
dipper great pics on your link, i have a few questions for you.
1.)your talking about putting that exterior stainless collar on a block of maybe 2*10*10" and using jtrim to finish it off to your vinyl siding, would the wood remain visible? i'm wondering if theres any blanks like they use for under lights and such for trimming vinyl into that are big enough for that??? i did find a big one for a big *** light i have on my garage and just slipped a 2*6 under it to hold the weight of the light
2.) your using the mr heater venting kit, theres been some talk to the quality of it? and about a big space between the thimble and the jpipe
3.)that kit comes with 4" pipe and u mentioned that pipe was very hot, hence u had covered it with the silver tape, if a person were to use the 3" that the heater is ported at i'm thinking it would be even hotter. so bigger should be better?
4.)you talk about shortening a jpipe, is that possible? i've never used it so i'm not up on its workings yet. what i do know is there is a minimum of 18" space needed behind the heater. 6.5" to go thru the wall (5.5 stud .5drywall .5 ext sheeting) thats 24.5" leaving 12" plus the lenght of hte cap hanging out the sidewall, prbly a bit excessive and if i add a 3-4" adaper at the furnace thats prbly another 6"

that should keep ya busy for awhile ;-)
 

dipper

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 27, 2007
Messages
759
Location
Rochester, NY
dipper great pics on your link, i have a few questions for you.
1.)your talking about putting that exterior stainless collar on a block of maybe 2*10*10" and using jtrim to finish it off to your vinyl siding, would the wood remain visible? i'm wondering if theres any blanks like they use for under lights and such for trimming vinyl into that are big enough for that??? i did find a big one for a big *** light i have on my garage and just slipped a 2*6 under it to hold the weight of the light
2.) your using the mr heater venting kit, theres been some talk to the quality of it? and about a big space between the thimble and the jpipe
3.)that kit comes with 4" pipe and u mentioned that pipe was very hot, hence u had covered it with the silver tape, if a person were to use the 3" that the heater is ported at i'm thinking it would be even hotter. so bigger should be better?
4.)you talk about shortening a jpipe, is that possible? i've never used it so i'm not up on its workings yet. what i do know is there is a minimum of 18" space needed behind the heater. 6.5" to go thru the wall (5.5 stud .5drywall .5 ext sheeting) thats 24.5" leaving 12" plus the lenght of hte cap hanging out the sidewall, prbly a bit excessive and if i add a 3-4" adaper at the furnace thats prbly another 6"

that should keep ya busy for awhile ;-)

1) probably more like a piece of plywood or two about the size you describe. I would trim out the face in soffit material or vinyl material the same color as the siding. The thimble doesn't sit the best against the angled siding which is why i want to do it. Worst case i will use some white vinyl and spray paint it to match the siding.

2) I thought the kit was good. there is a gap, maybe 1/8" to 1/4" around between the b-vent and the thimble. Ultimately I would use clear silicone to seal it up. Most of the vent pieces can be had at home depot or lowes too, not sure how they fit versus the kit. I just liked the idea of not having to mess around with it and bought the kit.

3) not sure on the 3" pipe, i don't know if you can get b-vent in 3", the 3" to 4" transition isn't bad. Either way the pipe is going to be hot.

4) I tried to shorten the b-vent pipe by cutting it with a sawzall and then using some screws and washers to connect it back together to avoid having to go buy a 24" b-vent (the northern kit comes with 36"). I used very little of the 4" single wall pipe that comes with the kit. My total vent length is about 12" inside, 4-1/2" for the wall, then about 12" outside.


I basically did my vent kit in the cold at night and it didn't turn out perfect; but it's working great and i have heat. This summer i'll probably pull the vent out; buy whatever parts locally I need to do a better install job and spend the time to make it better without having to be rushed. We'll see.
 
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