Venting & Teflon Tape questions

[bobbyu]

Installing a Beacon/Morriss 45k Natural gas heater hopefully this weekend. Rounding up venting and 1/2" black pipe for the install. I've read the instructions and not finding my answer. When I attached the short section between the heater stub and T should I run a screw into the short section that connects to the heater stub to hold it on? I'm using Amerivent from Menards. The short section I'm planing on using is their adjustable Pipe. http://www.menards.com/main/heating-cooling/venting/gas-appliance-venting/class-b-pipe-4-x-3-10/p-1707965-c-9462.htm

It has a hole in it like they expect you to use a screw. Searching this site I thought it said not to puncture the inner section of your vent.
Second question is about using the Blue monster PTFE Thread(teflon) Tape on natural gas black pipe threads. All sorts of threads about using teflon tape, only one mentions the Blue monster tape and they said they use it.

Thanks

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

Can you post a picture of the install so far?
It would be easier to walk you through it that way.

 

[bobbyu]

Well I never attached pictures so I'll see if they show up. I haven't mounted the heater yet. I hope to this weekend. I mocked up the b vent on to the stub out the back of the heater. My question is the short section that slips over the heater stub should it have a screw or three put into it to hold it tight? It fits snug but there is nothing to keep it from working off.

Well one picture is sideways but it is basically the same picture as the other. You can see the screw hole in the short section on the heater. If I run a screw through it and into the heater stub I'm sure I will pierce the center section of the vent tube. Is that a no no?

 

[BD1]

Teflon tape is illegal to use on natural gas in some areas. The tape may plug the gas device and possibly lock it open IF for some reason it gets in the line.
Sometimes a amateur could tear it upon application or pieces become shredded and enter the line.
There was a teflon tape specifically approved for natural gas use in some areas. Check with utility company.

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

You should be able to get a transition that adapts the b-vent to the single wall coming out of the heater,You should be able to mount that piece with screws.

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

Heres a transition for single wall to b vent,youll need to get the same brand as your b vent so they will lock together.
For the sealing of gas pipes Ive used rector seal T-plus 2 for years without issues.

 

[bobbyu]

Heres a transition for single wall to b vent,youll need to get the same brand as your b vent so they will lock together.
For the sealing of gas pipes Ive used rector seal T-plus 2 for years without issues.

Well I don't remember seeing a transition piece. I got the Menards online site up now so I will check it out. I should get a job there as much as I'm there. I saw on some other threads that rector seal T-plus was recommended. I saw Menards has some brand that said used for gas applications but pretty sure it wasn't Rector Seal.
Thanks

Well the online site says they have one in stock at my local store. So hopefully it will be there when I get there. Thanks.

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

Da nada

 

[slip knot]

My plumber uses "big blue" tape and dope for gas lines. He said it was new and rated as multi-purpose so thats all he carries on the truck.

 

[bobbyu]

My plumber uses "big blue" tape and dope for gas lines. He said it was new and rated as multi-purpose so thats all he carries on the truck.

Yea it seems to be a toss up on whether it's right or wrong. I have used the white tape for years but never had to do NG before.
Thanks

 

[plott hound]

looks like you need a C to B adapter for the venting.venting instructions should come with the unit,there might be a minimum amount of c vent to use before you trans to B-vent.as for the gaspipe,get a can of masters pro dope.make sure to do a preasure test when your done.

 

[Jackfre]

I use teflon on gas all the time, but I've installed miles of it over the years. BD1's moment about strings of improperly installed teflon are correct. The threads cut the tape and if there is to much overhanging the first thread it can travel to the gas valve and possibly keep it from closing. I don't put teflon over the first thread. Read the label on your pipe dope. It will tell you if it is rated for gas.

 

[Basstracker34]

What size B vent pipe are you using?

The part you want is called a B Vent draft hood. It will convert the double wall b vent to the single wall stub on the heater. http://www.menards.com/main/search.html?search=class+b+draft+hood

Fasten the draft hood to the stub using 3 stainless steel self drilling screws spaced equally apart.

Otherwise if you really want to use the adjustable one you already have(maybe it's perfect length for ceiling connection) just cut off the outer layer just where needed to essentially give you a draft hood.

 

[bobbyu]

What size B vent pipe are you using?

The part you want is called a B Vent draft hood. It will convert the double wall b vent to the single wall stub on the heater. http://www.menards.com/main/search.html?search=class+b+draft+hood

Fasten the draft hood to the stub using 3 stainless steel self drilling screws spaced equally apart.

Otherwise if you really want to use the adjustable one you already have(maybe it's perfect length for ceiling connection) just cut off the outer layer just where needed to essentially give you a draft hood.

I wondered why I couldn't do that with the adjustable section I have and your right about it being the right length. If I to go much longer I start getting pretty close to the the wall. The manual I got does not go into specifics about attaching the first section to the heater. I have a drywall lift lined up for this Friday to lift the heater. I need to pull an unused NG line down into my basement from where it is behind our stove. When we moved there we had a pretty new electric stove so I connected it and capped out the NG line. It is CSST line. Can I just remove the existing connector and pull it down and reattached it? Thanks fore everyone's help.

 

[Basstracker34]

As long as it fits over the heater stub you just need to attach by 3 SS screws. That's what I've read here and online. Something to do with the flue gasses being corrosive is why the SS screw? I went with a 4 to 3 reducer, 90 elbow, 45 elbow, draft hood. This combo fit my previous homeowners spot perfectly.

Be sure you put in a proper drip leg too. Similar to how this one looks. Although I didn't use a union on mine. http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/attachments/f15/58554d1402619678t-installing-garage-heater-image.jpg

I just used NG approved pipe dope for when I installed mine.

 

[bobbyu]

As long as it fits over the heater stub you just need to attach by 3 SS screws. That's what I've read here and online. Something to do with the flue gasses being corrosive is why the SS screw? I went with a 4 to 3 reducer, 90 elbow, 45 elbow, draft hood. This combo fit my previous homeowners spot perfectly.

Be sure you put in a proper drip leg too. Similar to how this one looks. Although I didn't use a union on mine. http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/attachments/f15/58554d1402619678t-installing-garage-heater-image.jpg

I just used NG approved pipe dope for when I installed mine.

thanks I think I'm going to use the adjustable section. I'll just trim the outside section back some and attach it with SS screws. My heater is 4" and that is the size of venting I'm going to use.

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

As long as it fits over the heater stub you just need to attach by 3 SS screws. That's what I've read here and online. Something to do with the flue gasses being corrosive is why the SS screw? I went with a 4 to 3 reducer, 90 elbow, 45 elbow, draft hood. This combo fit my previous homeowners spot perfectly.

Be sure you put in a proper drip leg too. Similar to how this one looks. Although I didn't use a union on mine. http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/attachments/f15/58554d1402619678t-installing-garage-heater-image.jpg

I just used NG approved pipe dope for when I installed mine.

No need for s.s sheetmetal screws on flue pipe.

 

[Andamo]

I used the white Teflon tape for almost 40 years working in the oil and gas industry. Two of the tricks to using it is to start the wrap at the second thread and go around the fitting 1 1/2-2 times and wrap it the opposite direction it will be threaded in. There is a lot of cheap so-called Teflon tape out there too and you want to use a quality tape. The good quality tape is very limp whereas the cheap stuff has the consistency of thin paper.
Another thing to keep in mind is not to use it at any temperature over 400 degrees F, because it'll melt away.

 

[dave67fd]

The annular area (open end) of the B vent should also be sealed. You can use high temp red silcone and/or high temp flue tape.

 

[bobbyu]

The annular area (open end) of the B vent should also be sealed. You can use high temp red silcone and/or high temp flue tape.

Do you mean the outside layer that I'll be cutting back so I can screw the inside to the stub on the heater?

 

[dave67fd]

Do you mean the outside layer that I'll be cutting back so I can screw the inside to the stub on the heater?

Yes, that is correct.