Venting unit heater under deep soffit

[bedn0009]

All,

I had a unit heater installed in my garage last winter. The guy who installed it run the exhaust (as shown) out only far enough to vent the heater, but not get the moisture-laden exhaust out into the open air. Because of this, when it gets very cold, heavy ice and frost build up underneath my soffit. In only one season it caused much of the paint in that area to bubble and peel.

Obviously this should have been vented straight up through the roof, but now it is where it is. A local HVAC contractor is thinking of just extending the vent another 3' to clear the soffit, but I'm wondering if the knowledgeable minds of Garage Journal might have different suggestions. This vent would come out in a very prominent area of our patio, so hiding it would be ideal if possible.

Please share any thoughts on a solution.

Thanks

 

[vicegripbloodblister]

I don't know the codes in your area but it looks to me like it is way to close to the window and should extend beyond the soffit. Consult your heater installation instructions and if the original installer was certified HVAC perhaps some recourse there. Good luck and hope it works out for you.

 

[acmikee]

way too close to the window. what above the soffit. attic space or 2nd floor

 

[CNGsaves]

Yep . . . 0 for 2 on that install. Total **** and against code.

Tear it out, patch the siding. Vent it up and out roof properly.

 

[fury9]

What a JACKASS! He drilled a huge hole through the header!? You've got some issues if you ever want to sell

 

[Rookie2]

Not Good ! condensation will rise and collect under the roof via the soffit louvers, then it will freeze in the winter. extending it to the gutter will only melt snow and refreeze the water in the local area of the gutter.

I have a similar problem.

 

[dfiler2]

The other problem you can run into by extending it is in very cold weather the moisture can freeze in the pipe before it reaches the end and eventually plug the pipe. The only way to fix this is to go up, however, going up will also put you very close to the other exterior wall. You may need to go into the attic space and 45 away from that wall first before coming through the roof.

As far as patching the siding and header I would try to cut a block and put it in the header for a temp fix then tackle a permanent fix next spring.

Edit; I was thinking this was the case here is a link to the code concerning that second story wall. Page 78 top of the right hand column says you need to be 8 feet from that wall.

http://www2.iccsafe.org/states/seattle/seattle_fuelgas/PDFs_fuelgas/Chapter 5.pdf

 

[Jlbc212]

What a JACKASS! He drilled a huge hole through the header!? You've got some issues if you ever want to sell

^^^ what he said. Whoever did the install had no idea what he was doing. Who sent this person to your house? Was it the company, the place you bought the unit heater? You may have some legal recourse here. However, if it was mine, I would do the required research and fix it myself. It would probably be much less of a hassle and I would know it was done right.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

The "installer" was a schmuck. Was there a permit and inspection? There are multiple code and engineering violations, not to mention the total lack of common sense. Time to call in the AHJ and MAKE him pay to do it right and repair all damage he has caused...

Do NOT give him the option of performing the work.

Tommy

 

[ForceFed70]

Wow. I'd be going back to that installer so quick! Was he a ticketed professional? If so - I'd get him back to fix that install of threaten to send pictures to the safety authority.

With such poor work - I really doubt this was a professional job tho. No pro would put their name on it. As such - you've now got to deal with the consequences. The easy/cheap way to repair would be to extend the vent out another 4' or so. Kinda ugly tho.

 

[Ironhorse74]

There should be a drawing of a building in the instructions/manual. That drawing will have clearences to common building components. For instance a soffit and a window. I know that termination would not work for any of my company's appliances.

Brad

 

[myredracer]

Wow, that is very bad. Not a little wrong - waaay wrong.

Code will dictate min. distance to a window or opening and also height above a roof. It's 20 or 25' horizontally here (can't recall exactly offhand). You don't want CO and fumes to enter a building. Certainly looks like he would have chewed a hole through the window header.

Installer was a maroon. Was he licenced? What else could be done wrong? I would contact your AHJ and ask how it should be done and let him/her know what was done. If he is licenced, the AHJ could take action.

Definitely actionable in court. You have a duty to mitigate and should repair any damage before anything gets worse (mold, rot, etc.). Then redone, take him to court. Sure wouldn't go back to him to fix it. Too bad Adam Carolla is so far away...