Vibration Isolators
- Thread starter CTDan
- Start date
38Chevy454
Well-known member
Change to a jackshaft style opener (Liftmaster 8500 for example) and much of your noise problem will go away. It's the opener and not the tracks making most of your noise.
True, but severe overkill. A neoprene hanger runs maybe $10 each? My wife will have me by the you-know-whats if I propose a $300+ garage door opener for a fix that I can do for $50 or less.
Dan
toplessHO
Well-known member
how does she even know how much you spend on the garage?
LS6 Tommy
Well-known member
That's a joke, right? Just try to keep a separate, private checking account for your garage. See how that goes...
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toplessHO
Well-known member
no not a joke. move on back to vibration idolaters.Waffle pad helps isolate too.
kapnkirk
Member
Dan
How about a lord mount system, found this one on amazon, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0099BRJ1Y/?tag=atomicindus08-20
We used Lord mounts on Reciprocating Aircraft engines way back when, I haven't tried these on a garage door opener but might be worth a try.
Keith
How about a lord mount system, found this one on amazon, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0099BRJ1Y/?tag=atomicindus08-20
We used Lord mounts on Reciprocating Aircraft engines way back when, I haven't tried these on a garage door opener but might be worth a try.
Keith
FANTM58
Well-known member
use a spring isolator, look on line
Good luck!!
Good luck!!
Thanks for the suggestions.
Yes. My wife knows every penny I spend and gives me hell for it. I rebuilt the bathroom last summer, which required me to take down about 30% of the garage ceiling for access to the plumbing. The city inspector saw this, looked at me and said, "So, you are going to bring this drywall up to code, right??"
****. Time to gut the garage, fire block everything, seal and insulate ductwork, insulate pipes, a new door, and type-x drywall. Thank you Mr. Inspector.
Yes. My wife knows every penny I spend and gives me hell for it. I rebuilt the bathroom last summer, which required me to take down about 30% of the garage ceiling for access to the plumbing. The city inspector saw this, looked at me and said, "So, you are going to bring this drywall up to code, right??"
****. Time to gut the garage, fire block everything, seal and insulate ductwork, insulate pipes, a new door, and type-x drywall. Thank you Mr. Inspector.
redmondjp
Well-known member
You can simply hang the motor drive end of your garage door opener from some rubber straps - this will greatly reduce the vibration that is coupled into the structure of the house.
doorfx
Well-known member
redmondjp
Well-known member
I've done it with other motors but not with a garage door opener. I have a ranch house - I have two piece of link chain holding up my opener since there are no bedrooms above it.
Just get a couple pieces of rubber strap - you can cut 1" wide strips off of old semi truck mudflaps, for example, and use one on each side.
ddawg16
Well-known member
First off.....what kind of opener is it? Chain, screw or belt? I'm doubting belt....those are really quiet compared to the other two.
You will get 'some' relief using rubber where the opener hangs from the ceiling.
But.....
The shaft of the opener attaches to the garage header. This has to be a solid connection for both pulling and pushing. A lot of the vibration is going to be coupled at this connection and there is not much you can do about it.
First things first....find the major causes.
Uncouple the door from the opener and roll it up and down. Make sure all the sections are aligned properly so the wheels don't hit gaps....kinda like the noise a train makes going over the gap in the track.
Your door spring should be adjusted so it's easy to raise and lower. This means less work for the opener. Wheels should not make any noise. Are the nylon or metal?
Once you have the door going up and down with little to no noise, then work on the opener. Cycle it decoupled from the door. How much noise does it transmit to the house? Have you cleaned and lubed the chain/gear? Are all the parts tight? Loose part rattle.
Get the idea?
Me? I'm not doing **** to my opener. I want it to die.....so I can justify a Liftmaster 3800
You will get 'some' relief using rubber where the opener hangs from the ceiling.
But.....
The shaft of the opener attaches to the garage header. This has to be a solid connection for both pulling and pushing. A lot of the vibration is going to be coupled at this connection and there is not much you can do about it.
First things first....find the major causes.
Uncouple the door from the opener and roll it up and down. Make sure all the sections are aligned properly so the wheels don't hit gaps....kinda like the noise a train makes going over the gap in the track.
Your door spring should be adjusted so it's easy to raise and lower. This means less work for the opener. Wheels should not make any noise. Are the nylon or metal?
Once you have the door going up and down with little to no noise, then work on the opener. Cycle it decoupled from the door. How much noise does it transmit to the house? Have you cleaned and lubed the chain/gear? Are all the parts tight? Loose part rattle.
Get the idea?
Me? I'm not doing **** to my opener. I want it to die.....so I can justify a Liftmaster 3800
ripperd
Well-known member
Might be able to use muffler hanger grommets as well. They are designed for the weight and flex nicely.
3800?
I got lucky and the belt on my C-Man opener threw a bunch of teeth a few months ago. Buying an $80 belt for a 15 year old opener made no sense.
Got my LiftMaster 8500... fantastic. www.weshipgaragedoorparts.com
sierradmax
Well-known member
Follow this. I had two older Lynx chain drive openers under a walk-in closet adjacent to our master bedroom. I changed to Liftmaster belt drive units and they're significantly quieter.
theundermount
Well-known member
In my hunt for some isolaters this is what I've found on Amazon
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00X77NRV2/?tag=atomicindus04-20
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00X7785NC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cwDLybFPNHFEC[[
There is a ton more if you search around as well
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00X77NRV2/?tag=atomicindus04-20
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00X7785NC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cwDLybFPNHFEC[[
There is a ton more if you search around as well
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Sorry for the delayed response. I have two sick kids and I now have what they have.... Oy.
The opener is a Wayne Dalton Pro Drive with a belt lift system. The door is a hefty fully insulated double door. Everything works pretty well and is kept lubed with PB Blaster Garage Door Lube (I am always open to suggestions for better products).
As I mentioned, The Man told me to gut the garage and bring it up to fire code. If I need to take down the opener and rails, I might as well put it back up with a little bit more isolation.
On an old episode of "Ask This Old House",Tom Silva made some isolation straps by cutting straps from a large truck mudflap and using them to hang Garage Door opener.It was in a raised ranch and reduced vibration and noise transmitted into the house.
redmondjp
Well-known member
metalmagpie
Well-known member
Start out by making sure every fastener is tight and that everything is lubricated. Then move on from there.
metalmagpie
metalmagpie