Vinatge air compressor pump ID and help?

[wotan]

Picked up this old compressor from craigslist. The price dropped dramatically when the motor wouldn't spin without tripping the breaker. I only have 110v in my garage so I know a big pump won't work -- I had questions on this one when I saw the motor was only 1/2HP but it certainly appears to be a beefy unit. The PO claims he would run it up to 165psi. It's sitting on a 35-40gal tank that appears to be of the same vintage.

What do I have and what do I need to get it up and running? The motor spins freely but trips the breaker when turned on. I have another 1/2 HP motor with the same specs that came out of an old furnace.

 

[RECox286]

Looking quickly, the pump seems to me to be a Speed-aire.

But I wouldn't bet my life on it. It should be hefty enough

to last a good long time. As for the motor;

1/2 horse is probably too small a motor, even looking at the

pump I wouldn't hitch less than 3/4 actual hp to it. Also, it

probably wouln't hurt to have a capaciter start to help it

from stalling and blowing the bkr. If you are in question about

the motor, find a motor shop that will look it over for you.

You can get a replacement motor (compressor duty) at any

number of places; Grainger, McMaster, local motor shop,

Northern Hydraulics/Tools, Harbor Freight, Tractor supply,

the list goes on.

Uncle Bob

 

[454ragtop]

First thing to do is make sure the motor is wired for 115 volt not 230 volt, see the tag on the motor. Any 17XX RPM motor of 1/2 HP, or larger should work if that one is no good. Not sure what you're planning to run with this, but I wouldn't expect a very large output, and that 165 PSI figure sounds somewhat optimistic, at best.
Good luck, Jim

 

[wotan]

First thing to do is make sure the motor is wired for 115 volt not 230 volt, see the tag on the motor. Any 17XX RPM motor of 1/2 HP, or larger should work if that one is no good. Not sure what you're planning to run with this, but I wouldn't expect a very large output, and that 165 PSI figure sounds somewhat optimistic, at best.
Good luck, Jim

Good thinking.... I'll check the motor. The guy I bought it from claimed he had been running it on 115v but since it was craigslist, who really knows if he had even run it. Thanks for the advice!

 

[wotan]

Well I checked the wiring on the motor and it did seem goofed up. I re-wired it to 115v and it did the same thing..... ran for 20 seconds and then tripped the breaker. Took it apart and the centrifugal start switch seemed free and the capacitor tested good. That motor is junk.

Bolted on my 1/2hp HVAC motor and it fired right up. Ran it up to 120psi without a problem (although the motor wouldn't restart with enough ooomph to kick back in over 80psi.)

It's a big tank (40 gallons) and a small motor so it took a LONG time to charge, but it did work.

Now I'm not sure what to do. The motor is rubber mounted and shakes like crazy. It doesn't have a capacitive start. It does the job, but slowly.

What do I do with this? It doesn't seem worth a $185 replacement motor for such slow air. Is there any market for these vintage pumps?

 

[Zrexxer]

What do I do with this? It doesn't seem worth a $185 replacement motor for such slow air. Is there any market for these vintage pumps?

I hate to say it, but I can think of one thing that would be well suited for...

You got ahead of yourself and bought a poorly assembled collection of parts that wasn't even working at the time of purchase. The motor's too small for the pump, the pump's too small for the tank, there doesn't appear to be any kind of an unloader so that it can actually restart... I get it, really, sometimes you get excited about buying something and emotion overcomes your better judgement - but I'm not sure you'd ever be happy with this machine even if you put the money into it to get it marginally working. It might be time to cut your losses.

 

[scw1991]

Based on the size of the pressure switch next to the pump, that appears to be one very small pump probably rated for a 1/2HP motor. The rule of thumb is 4 SCFM per HP. So, this pump probably puts out 2 SCFM. Other than inflating car tires and perhaps using it with a small pneumatic nailer for home workshop projects I don't think I'd be spending big money on a new motor.

The pump is more of a conversation piece really. It's definitely well built with cast iron construction, splash type oil lubrication system, and disk type valves. However, I can't imagine it would be worth more than $20 to the right person.

 

[wotan]

I hate to say it, but I can think of one thing that would be well suited for...

You got ahead of yourself and bought a poorly assembled collection of parts that wasn't even working at the time of purchase. The motor's too small for the pump, the pump's too small for the tank, there doesn't appear to be any kind of an unloader so that it can actually restart... I get it, really, sometimes you get excited about buying something and emotion overcomes your better judgement - but I'm not sure you'd ever be happy with this machine even if you put the money into it to get it marginally working. It might be time to cut your losses.

Haha! I appreciate that. I'm only $20 into it at this point so I'm not too stressed. The tank and fittings are worth that if nothing else.

 

[WWIIjeep]

The PO claims he would run it up to 165psi.

The pump is a Quincy model X-2.

165 PSI is way beyond what that pump was designed for.

 

[wotan]

The pump is a Quincy model X-2.

165 PSI is way beyond what that pump was designed for.

Thanks. Any more details on what it was designed for? What size tank and what size motor would it have been appropriate for?

 

[WWIIjeep]

It's a very small pump (the smallest Quincy made). Only about 2 to 2-1/2 CFM output at operating pressure of 80-100 PSI.

1/3 to 1/2 HP motor is plenty for it at that pressure.

Common uses were for tire inflation and other very light-duty applications.

Powermatic originally used the Quincy X-2 pump (direct, without air tank) on their model 87 band saw as a chip-blower.

 

[Zrexxer]

Haha! I appreciate that. I'm only $20 into it at this point so I'm not too stressed. The tank and fittings are worth that if nothing else.

At least you haven't got too much invested in it. My original post sounded a little harsh, but I didn't intend to be judgmental about it.

I just see this happen quite a bit here on the forum - there are a lot of compressors for sale out there have been kludged together out of random parts, not all of which work well together. Then a member excitedly buys one of these antiquated homebrew rigs, and when he gets it home finds that it's going to take a bunch of money to make it work and even when working it's going to be marginal.

With some rare exceptions, making any reasonable volume of compressed air reliably is going to require a significant investment. It's usually better to "cry once" and make that investment on a good quality working machine up front, than to spend the money trying to put lipstick on a pig...

 

[wotan]

At least you haven't got too much invested in it.

With some rare exceptions, making any reasonable volume of compressed air reliably is going to require a significant investment. It's usually better to "cry once" and make that investment on a good quality working machine up front, than to spend the money trying to put lipstick on a pig...

I get that. My big problem is that I don't have 220v to my garage and I don't see an inexpensive way to add it. I'm crippled from the get go.

 

[Packard V8]

1. Rubber mounted motors are not suitable for compressor duty.
2. 3/4hp to 1hp motors are around and not usually very expensive. Does anyone have the RPM range for that Quincy?
3. The tank is too large for the pump, but smaller tanks are dirt cheap, as the junk oilless pumps burn up in short order.
4. It is possible to connect a small tank to your 40 gal in the event you would need larger volume for some application.

If you wanted the work, you could find a smaller tank and a motor and build up a unit.

jack vines

 

[G_P]

Well I checked the wiring on the motor and it did seem goofed up. I re-wired it to 115v and it did the same thing..... ran for 20 seconds and then tripped the breaker. Took it apart and the centrifugal start switch seemed free and the capacitor tested good. That motor is junk.

Bolted on my 1/2hp HVAC motor and it fired right up. Ran it up to 120psi without a problem (although the motor wouldn't restart with enough ooomph to kick back in over 80psi.)

It's a big tank (40 gallons) and a small motor so it took a LONG time to charge, but it did work.

Now I'm not sure what to do. The motor is rubber mounted and shakes like crazy. It doesn't have a capacitive start. It does the job, but slowly.

What do I do with this? It doesn't seem worth a $185 replacement motor for such slow air. Is there any market for these vintage pumps?

Does it even have an unloader or a check valve between the pump and the tank? If not its always going to struggle to start because its working against the pressure of the air in the tank.

 

[Fixnair]

That is a Quincy model X2. 1/2HP is about right. It will need a check valve between the compressor and tank with a pressure switch and a bleeder valve attached to the pressure switch to unload the compressor when the switch opens.
You would want yo size the pulley to run the compressor @ 800 RPM. YOU ALSO WANT TO USE AN 1800 RPM motor. A compressor is a high starting torque device. You wouldn't't want yo use a fan duty motor here. A capacitor start motor would be the choice.
Don't try to pump much over 125 PSI with it. The efficiency drops way off above 125 PSI. IT WILL DELIVER ABOUT 3 SCFM @ 125 PSI. Good little compressor.

 

[wotan]

That is a Quincy model X2. 1/2HP is about right. It will need a check valve between the compressor and tank with a pressure switch and a bleeder valve attached to the pressure switch to unload the compressor when the switch opens.
You would want yo size the pulley to run the compressor @ 800 RPM. YOU ALSO WANT TO USE AN 1800 RPM motor. A compressor is a high starting torque device. You wouldn't't want yo use a fan duty motor here. A capacitor start motor would be the choice.
Don't try to pump much over 125 PSI with it. The efficiency drops way off above 125 PSI. IT WILL DELIVER ABOUT 3 SCFM @ 125 PSI. Good little compressor.

Thanks! Great info! 3SCFM @ 125PSI isn't too bad at all (and not that far off from a newer compressor.)

I believe that this does have an unloader under the pressure valve. I'll take a picture and you guys can let me know.

Anyone have a source for an inexpensive motor? I looked at harbor freight, ebay, amazon, northern tool, TSC and all of the compressor duty motors that I can find are north of $150.

 

[G_P]

Check Craigslist or tag sales for a used motor. You can find fractional HP motors for a few bucks if you look around for a bit.
Might have to buy an entire rusty table saw for $10 just to get the motor though!

 

[wotan]

Alright, I found a used 3/4hp 1750rpm motor that I picked up for $50. In my stupidity, I didn't realize until I had it all hooked up that this motor has a rubber mount. Is there any kind of kit that will replace the rubber with something rigid? Google has got me nowhere on this one.....

 

[thieltech]

need pictures of this for help

 

[FunkyfullWidth]

It sounds like it might be an issue with the unloader valve and/or check valve, not the motor.. What psi would it get up to before the breaker tripped? Get us some better pictures of the whole compressor!

 

[wotan]

It sounds like it might be an issue with the unloader valve and/or check valve, not the motor.. What psi would it get up to before the breaker tripped? Get us some better pictures of the whole compressor!

The motor would trip the breaker with the belt removed -- and it would happen in the first 10 seconds.

I junked that motor.

Bought another one with a capacitor start. It came with a pulley on it with several different diameters, I calculated out the correct ratio to hit aproximately 850rpms on the pump. The motor can still kick on the compressor even with 100lbs of PSI in the tank. Pressure switch works great. Only problem I have now is that the motor is rubber mounted (there's the rubber mount on the front and back with the compression clamp that connects it to the chasis.) Is there a bolt on chasis that would adapt this or do I need to weld it to the bracket?

 

[thieltech]

does the motor viabrate around alot with current setup ?
if it works okay and isnt jumping around , i would just run it

 

[thieltech]

you need to change the wiring from the switch to the motor . thats a no no. but u may already know that

 

[wotan]

does the motor viabrate around alot with current setup ?
if it works okay and isnt jumping around , i would just run it

Yeah, it rocks back and forth and vibrates a lot. I wouldn't trust it to run like this for very long.

you need to change the wiring from the switch to the motor . thats a no no. but u may already know that

Yeah, there isn't an on/off switch so I'll need to rewire it when I get one of those. The wiring for right now is just temporary.

 

[wotan]

Alright -- I welded a new bracket on to the motor to stabilize it. It doesn't rock any more. I'm going to rewire this motor but suspect I need to add a pressure switch with an unloader. I don't know how to plumb that, though -- will a pressure switch like this work? How do I plumb it in?




Thanks!

 

[altersaddle]

I don't think that pressure switch has an unloader. They're usually a brass fitting on the switch itself, that is mechanically triggered when the pressure switch turns off the motor.

To plumb in an unloader, you will need a check valve between the pump outlet and the tank (receiver). The check valve ensures that air pressure doesn't return back from the receiver into the pump when the unloader unloads the pressure.

You can also get a device called a Load Genie that should be able to bleed off the pressure when the pump stops. I think the Genie is also a check valve. One was recommended to me, I need to replaced the whole switch on my Speed-Aire (it's NLS) and I ended up getting a Pumptrol pressure switch with no unloader. I'm still undecided, I might get a Pumptrol that has an unloader instead of using the one I ended up getting - it's borderline too small for my motor.

 

[wotan]

To plumb in an unloader, you will need a check valve between the pump outlet and the tank (receiver). The check valve ensures that air pressure doesn't return back from the receiver into the pump when the unloader unloads the pressure.

I'm very confused. If there is a check valve at the top of the tank and the unloader is connected to a T between that and the pump (where my pressure switch is right now) then wouldn't it pump up to a certain pressure..... and then unload.... and then wouldn't the pressure switch kick back on because it would now see 0psi in the line between the check valve and the pump?

What am I missing?

 

[goforride57]

A check valve is a one way valve that would go above the pressure switch. So your pressure switch still gets the tank pressure and the rest of the pump and pipe pressure is bled off, thus easier to start for the motor. Not sure why you would need it for such a small setup.

 

[jdj72083]

Any idea the age of my Quincy????

Sent from my XT1093 using Tapatalk

 

[G_P]

I've got a load genie on my compressor. It works great. Automatic unloader and check valve all in one piece.