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vinegar derusting; how to remove the black residue

atch

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There are lots of discussions on here about how to derust. Vinegar, molasses, electro, evaporust, and on and on and on.

Using vinegar there is a black residue film left on the part when it comes out of the vinegar. I've been doing this for a long time and to get that black off I've used a bench grinder with a wire wheel on it. Mainly This is bolts and nuts and similar. Now I've got an antique Crescent wrench soaking. I'll never be able to get down inside to get the black off.

So today's question is: Is there a non-mechanical way to get that off? i.e., another liquid or chemical? Water (no matter how hard I spray it) doesn't do it. I'll try the power washer when it warms up but that doesn't help me now.
 
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FrankLee

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Switch to citric acid with a weaker solution.

Here's a Jacobs chuck soaking in CA (maybe 1 tsp) mixed in HOT tap water. It only took about two hours max. I still use a fine wire wheel to clean off the residue. The metal composition may make a difference, but no black coating. Steel wool #0000 would do a nice job too.

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John Timmins

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I put a meat cleaver in the 5% cleaning vinegar. There isn't black residue. I soaked it 4-5 days. I saw a 30% cleaning vinegar at Home Depot the other day. I would be careful using that stuff and check what is getting soaked often
 

TMcCay

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I use a cheap window cleaner (Windex). Spray it on and wipe it off. Let it dry well, then primed it to prevent the rust.
 
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atch

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I'd just grab a smaller wire wheel on a dremel.
Thanx, but there's no way to get down inside the thumb wheel gears on a crescent wrench (no matter how small the wire wheel).


I use a cheap window cleaner (Windex). Spray it on and wipe it off. Let it dry well, then primed it to prevent the rust.
Thanx. I've been trying miscellaneous liquids that I have around but never thought of Windex.
 
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atch

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I just now got the time to go to the shop. I tried Windex. Was it perfect? No. Was it good enough for now? Yes. Until I can get it apart to do a thorough cleaning. The black film is pretty well gone.

I wish I had taken a pic of this thing before the vinegar bath. It was pretty much beyond disgusting with rust. I couldn't get it apart then, but now I think I'll be able to. Once it's apart then I will be able to get down into all the cracks and crevices.

The rust appears to be totally gone; I'll be able to get the dirt/gunk off easily.

20230318_195958.jpg
 
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atch

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Here it is after an overnight soak in the parts washer (filled with Stoddard Solvent). I'll get after it with a toothbrush and solvent/acetone later, but it's good enough for now. After the soak the thumb wheel turns freely and the jaw moves easily. I might not try to get it any better except for the gunk down in those recesses in the handle. My original plan was to disassemble it down to individual pieces but I don't think I will. It's only a display/wall hanger after all.


20230320_193225.jpg.
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atch

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I was in the shop a few minutes ago and needed a crescent wrench for some small insignificant task. This was lying nearby as I hadn't hung it up for display yet. So instead of going to the toolbox and getting a (relatively) new one I just picked this up and used it. Worked like a charm.

Not bad since a couple of weeks ago the thumb wheel wouldn't even turn.
 

metalmagpie

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.. there's no way to get down inside the thumb wheel gears on a crescent wrench (no matter how small the wire wheel).
Take the wrench apart. Yes, they come apart. Once each part is on its own, you can soak/scrub/bead blast or whatever you like.
 
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atch

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Thank all of you who actually answered (or tried to answer) my original queston.

I had already decided that I was probably through with vinegar but already had this crescent wrench in vinegar and had the black residue when I took it out.

So for all of you who suggested alternative methods of rust removal I'll let you know that I have citric acid and Evaporust on order (but not here yet) and will be using those in the future. I also have several battery chargers I've accumulated in case I want to try electrolysis (sp???) rust removal. I've tried molasses in the past. While it worked when fresh it lost effectiveness pretty quickly. I wound up throwing out most of two 5-gallon containers of it. So I won't be using that anymore.

Thanx again to all those who helped with the actual immediate problem.
 

KenC

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Glad you're improving your 'toolkit'. I've used vinegar a lot, but usually on bigger stuff that Evaporust is just to expensive to be viable. The black stuff comes off easily with a pressure washer. Last thing(s) I did was a set of 8"casters from a scaffold set. Looked like new, even the ball bearings they swivel on. Just be sure to oil quickly.
 
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atch

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Glad you're improving your 'toolkit'. I've used vinegar a lot, but usually on bigger stuff that Evaporust is just to expensive to be viable. The black stuff comes off easily with a pressure washer. Last thing(s) I did was a set of 8"casters from a scaffold set. Looked like new, even the ball bearings they swivel on. Just be sure to oil quickly.
Thanx for the tip on the power washer. Right now it's in "winter storage" in the "back 40" shed.

When I get it out again I've got a long list of things that I need to use it for. Now here's one more thing.
 

Officenthesky

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So, I discovered this thread after doing a Google search for resolving the same problem, blackened tools after a de-rusting soak. After reading through, I'm wondering if anyone has tried putting the blackened piece in an ultrasonic cleaner? And if so, what cleaning solution did you use?
 

Chris_Hamilton

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Ospho in a gallon is like $30 dollars. Will go a long way. Far better than using vinegar. If you soak it then rinse, you will have no black residue. If you let it dry without rinsing then you will get that black crusty residue. Keep it wet till it's clean then rinse.
 

no704

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A little off topic, but when casting with plaster I use a water pic, like for cleaning your teeth, to clean out small details.
 
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