vintage air compressor
- Thread starter fommy100
- Start date
G_P
Well-known member
Pull one of the large fittings off the end of the tank an look inside. If its rusty as hell dont use that tank. If its not rusty run it. Obviously it has been used for quite a while so if it is not compromised by rust it is not going to randomly explode as long as you have a proper relief valve.
Home made by the looks of the welds. The tank is likely an old high pressure gas cylinder. The design with inverted heads is common in the chlorine & large refrigerant cylinder industries. Also used on steam locomotives in the air systems. Commonly called "ton cylinders". That one is smaller than the ones typically seen these days. Google "ton cylinder" for images.
If it is a repurposed gas cylinder, the wall thickness is likely much greater than required for a simple air compressor cylinder.
For your original question regarding painting cars, it is a likely undersized for long periods of spraying, like an entire car. Panel painting you'll likely be fine.
If it is a repurposed gas cylinder, the wall thickness is likely much greater than required for a simple air compressor cylinder.
For your original question regarding painting cars, it is a likely undersized for long periods of spraying, like an entire car. Panel painting you'll likely be fine.
Thank you for your help, can you tell me if i am right to think.......if its a 2 stage, constant run compressor?
And what is the difference between a constant run compressor and a compressor with a pump pressure switch?
Sorry about all the questions this is all new to me.
And what is the difference between a constant run compressor and a compressor with a pump pressure switch?
Sorry about all the questions this is all new to me.
Need better pics of the compressor pump. It most definitely is NOT a constant run compressor. It will use a pressure switch. it is a 50/50 duty cycle pump. Take more detailed pics of the pump for a better analysis of what it is and what it can do.
I doubt it is a two stage. It has no intercooler and both pistons look to be exactly the same size.
It looks as though they have a load genie on it to allow load/unload condition while it keeps running. this is NOT classified as a constant run compressor. Rotary screws fit that category. This is a piston (reciprocating) compressor.
It looks as though they have a load genie on it to allow load/unload condition while it keeps running. this is NOT classified as a constant run compressor. Rotary screws fit that category. This is a piston (reciprocating) compressor.
By the looks of things, your air filter shows compair/broomwade. Compair and Kellogg American are virtually one large company. BroomWade comes from England. BroomWade was bought by Gardner Denver. Somewhere in the distant past Compair and Broomwade may have been tied together but I Do not remember any ties between the two and I've been in the business over thirty years. It is possible the air filter is not original as the rest of the unit is cobbled together. It does not look like a Westinghouse, Brunner, Keystone, LeRoi, Dresser, Champion, Curtis, or antique Quincy. I believe it is either an old Kellogg or an ancient BroomWade pump. I've gone thru my antique Kellogg books and do not see a direct match. I have no BroomWade books.
Im on my phone but it sure looks like one cylinder is larger. You've been in the biz so don't listen to me
mygarageone
Well-known member
The tank actually looks like an old boiler expansion water tank , not really designed for the kind of pressure of an air comp.
But itS hard to tell for sure.
But itS hard to tell for sure.
Okay my concern, is its safe to run? I don't see an air compressor pressure switch. to turn it off when it reaches pressure.
It has a safety mechanical valve that releases the pressure from the rear of the tank. that's all i can see.
Do i have to manually charge it to 115 lbs psi, then shut it off? It has a manual on off switch at the front.
It has a safety mechanical valve that releases the pressure from the rear of the tank. that's all i can see.
Do i have to manually charge it to 115 lbs psi, then shut it off? It has a manual on off switch at the front.
A two stage system requires the air to be pressurized in the large cylinder and transferred to the smaller cylinder thru an intercooler tube or cast assembly. I see neither on this unit. A two stage system has the air filter on the large cylinder and the tank discharge tube coming off the smaller cylinder. Both are centered on the head here. This is typical for a single stage system.
I have seen a couple old Brunner compressors come thru the shop with these type tanks. They were so old they had flat belts on them like the Amish use. Tanks were stamped Brunner with dates. I believe they were genuine compressor tanks. I don't see any compressor info on this tank. Could go either way.
See the copper tube that goes to the top of the head?
Follow it down to that load genie. See the little round knob on the top of the genie? grab it and twist it counter clockwise a few turns. Run the compressor and see if it changes sound at around 115 to 125 psi? There is no way to know exactly what pressure it is supposed to pop at, but I would not allow it past 140. drain the tank and remove the mechanical valve. (Safety Valve). Look on the valve to see what pressure it says. That is its pop off pressure. What is that value?
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Lets assume the load genie releases at 100 psi. what should happen is as follows ...
Start compressor up with empty tank. Compressor runs and builds air. When pressure gets to 100 psi, the pressure overrides the spring inside the load genie and pushes some air up thru the copper tube onto the unloaders on top of the head. The unloaders push the intake valves open and hold them there so the compressor can't make any more pressure. The unit keeps running but makes no air at this point. As you use air from the tank, the pressure drops and eventually the spring in the load genie overrides the pressure in the tank, closes the port, and the air in the copper tube is exhausted allowing the unloaders to relax and the intake valves start sealing again to make more air pressure. This keeps going back and forth while the unit is on and I believe this is why you do not have a pressure switch and only have an on/off switch.
Start compressor up with empty tank. Compressor runs and builds air. When pressure gets to 100 psi, the pressure overrides the spring inside the load genie and pushes some air up thru the copper tube onto the unloaders on top of the head. The unloaders push the intake valves open and hold them there so the compressor can't make any more pressure. The unit keeps running but makes no air at this point. As you use air from the tank, the pressure drops and eventually the spring in the load genie overrides the pressure in the tank, closes the port, and the air in the copper tube is exhausted allowing the unloaders to relax and the intake valves start sealing again to make more air pressure. This keeps going back and forth while the unit is on and I believe this is why you do not have a pressure switch and only have an on/off switch.
okay the safety valve is rated for 115lbs at the back of the compressor, i adjusted the genie, and no such luck. I dismantled it and the pipe from the genie to the head was full of gunk which i cleaned out with solvent.
My question is, if the safety valve is rated for 115lbs psi, what do i set the genie at? The same pressure or a little less at 110lbs psi?
My question is, if the safety valve is rated for 115lbs psi, what do i set the genie at? The same pressure or a little less at 110lbs psi?
About 5-10 PSI under should be good. You could do up to 115, but the closer you are to the set pressure, the easier it is to blow off. If you slightly bump it might release.
LS6 Tommy
Well-known member
That is definitely not a two stage. It's British, so I'm out of the loop for what brand it may be...
Tommy
Tommy
After you set the load genie, look the tank over to see if there is a square plate welded to it. I'm curious if it is a certified tank. The plate size is about 4" by 4". If you have a plate, tell us the number after the letters "MAWP" and tell us the year the tank was made.
okay ive finally got the genie set to 110 lbs psi, you hear the compressor note change and it does not pressurize. You can hear the air escaping throw, the air cleaner, the pressure drops to about 25lbs psi before the compressor kicks in again.
My question is this normal? Should it drop that far?
My question is this normal? Should it drop that far?
No. You have the differential too wide.
Can you take a couple close up pics of the load genie?
There are several configurations to set the kick in/kick out and the differential. Pics would help me.
Usually a load genie is set to something like 110-125 or 100-115 or 150-175. See the idea here?
*** I'm referring to the hex nut directly under the round knob, NOT the giant hex nut at the bottom.*** The one under the knob does thread in ... Right?
I would think there would be a flat washer between the spring and the rubber so the sharp edge of the spring doesn't cut into the rubber diaphragm, but its possible its normal. I'm pretty certain the hex nut is the differential. Try this ...
Drain the tank. Set the hex nut down tight and back it off one full turn. mark it and write down what you did to it. next run the unit and use only the round knob to try to set the high kick out pressure to 110. If you can get it to kick out at 110, then watch to see where it kicks back in at. Record the pressure at kick in. Stop compressor. drain tank.
Set the hex nut just two full turns in. (Far away from bottoming it out). mark it and write down what you did to it. next run the unit and use only the round knob to try to set the high kick out pressure to 110. If you can get it to kick out at 110, then watch to see where it kicks back in at. Record the pressure at kick in. Stop compressor. drain tank.
Tell me the numbers in both situations. This should determine which adjustment is which setting.
I would think there would be a flat washer between the spring and the rubber so the sharp edge of the spring doesn't cut into the rubber diaphragm, but its possible its normal. I'm pretty certain the hex nut is the differential. Try this ...
Drain the tank. Set the hex nut down tight and back it off one full turn. mark it and write down what you did to it. next run the unit and use only the round knob to try to set the high kick out pressure to 110. If you can get it to kick out at 110, then watch to see where it kicks back in at. Record the pressure at kick in. Stop compressor. drain tank.
Set the hex nut just two full turns in. (Far away from bottoming it out). mark it and write down what you did to it. next run the unit and use only the round knob to try to set the high kick out pressure to 110. If you can get it to kick out at 110, then watch to see where it kicks back in at. Record the pressure at kick in. Stop compressor. drain tank.
Tell me the numbers in both situations. This should determine which adjustment is which setting.
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okay did as instructed high cut out set to 110lbs psi. first adjustment dropped to 25lbs psi. second adjustment dropped to 25lbs psi.
It looks like the hex nut might be a locking nut for the cut out. would the differential adjustment be in the cylinder head?
would you recommend i replace the load genie with a modern new one?
It looks like the hex nut might be a locking nut for the cut out. would the differential adjustment be in the cylinder head?
would you recommend i replace the load genie with a modern new one?
okay just for fun i removed the rubber gasket, ran it and adjusted it to 110lbs psi. it unloaded and then kicked back in at 100lbs psi... success.
Now i need to figure out why i cant get any air adjustment through the regulator at the front of the compressor for the air line pressure, it only goes up to 40lbs psi. No matter how much you adjust the control.
Now i need to figure out why i cant get any air adjustment through the regulator at the front of the compressor for the air line pressure, it only goes up to 40lbs psi. No matter how much you adjust the control.
Regulator looks like a Dixon brand. I could be wrong but either way, two things to start with.
1.) Make sure it is installed to the tank properly. Regulators have a direction installation. Either there will be and arrow on it indicating the correct direction of airflow or it will say "IN" and "OUT". It must be installed so that "IN" is connected to the tank.
2.) Make certain the gauge is working properly.
1.) Make sure it is installed to the tank properly. Regulators have a direction installation. Either there will be and arrow on it indicating the correct direction of airflow or it will say "IN" and "OUT". It must be installed so that "IN" is connected to the tank.
2.) Make certain the gauge is working properly.