Vintage Craftsman drill press accessories

[Revsam]

Hi,

I have a Craftsman / Atlas #101.03582 drill press (ca. 1942). The best instruction manual and parts list I have been able to find for it is "Bulletin 42P-1B, Atlas 42B Drill Press Bench Model." All the parts listed in it correspond nicely with my machine. I just recently purchased this machine and am getting it ready to use.

One part, Nut #60-39 (knurled, and about 1 1/2" dia.) has two 3/16" dia holes for a pin type wrench, and appears to be used to attach accessories to the drill press spindle. In the above listed bulletin (or manual) this nut is shown in Fig. 2 holding some sort of accessory, possibly a thread tap (but who knows).

My drill press came with a mortising attachment and one drill bit and one mortising chisel. I assume that it is OK to drive the mortising drill bit with the presses Jacobs chuck and not some other tool holder, as this appears to be what is shown in figure 12 of the manual. Can someone confirm this?

Does anyone know of any source for such an accessory holder or any accessory for this drill press such as is held in place by Nut #60-39?

Also, I am waiting for drill chuck removal wedges from Sears for a "2JT" taper. Am I correct in thinking that this taper is a Jacobs taper that is a fixed part of the drill press spindle? I originally thought that the chuck was attached via a Morse taper inside the spindle, but I am not so sure right now.

Thank you for your help.
Revsam

 

[zkling]

Can you post some pics? That would really help.

I'm thinking the knurled nut with holes is actually a collar for the spindle and should be on above the chuck.

Those chucks (if original) were not designed to use knoced off with wedges, but more so with a collar or knurled nut that is threaded on the spindle before the chuck is pressed on. Then to remove the chuck you thread the nut with a spanner wrench and that pops the chuck off the taper. The spindle should be a JT33 taper, but it should take a collared chuck and using wedges can damage the spindle.

Yes you use the drill chuck to spin the mortise drill. There is a housing and hold down clamp that goes with the mortising kit.

 

[schor]

zkling probably has it correct. The knurled nut is used to push the chuck off. You use a spanner wrench on the nut to turn it.

Sounds like someone replaced the chuck and removed the nut.

Not sure where you would get a new one. Maybe you can make one if you have a lathe.

 

[Packard V8]

Without seeing yours, it's difficult to say whether the chuck can be used or not. The reason there is a separate spindle for mortising is usually the chuck is too large and too long to fit inside the mortising head collar. Mortising bits are usually 1/2" shank and the mortising spindle holds them straight/tighter than would a chuck.

jack vines

 

[tkjones1]

I am restoring my grandfather's model 101.03582. An appropriate pin punch placed in the holes should remove the knurled nut. Zking's comments are correct in that the nut is used to pop the chuck. Mine still had an orginal slotted taper wedge with it as well but I never had to use it. You can still get the original SKF bearings through a SKF distributor. Enjoy the restoration!

 

[Revsam]

Thanks to everyone who replied to my inquiry. Your comments were very helpful.

Yes, the original knurled nut is in place, and a friend has loaned me two spanner wrenches until I can find good replacements.

Because the chuck removal wedge was shown in the parts list, I ordered a replacement from Sears on-line for a 2JT taper (about 0.700" capacity). Glad to know that the nut will do the job of removing the chuck so I don't have to use bruit force to remove it and so I can get it off first in order to use the morticing attachment.

What I don't have of the morticing set are the parts that hold the wood project in place. And, I think I have found more morticing chisels and bits if I want to use other sizes than the one that came with the drill press.

I have wanted a drill press for some time, and this one should fill the bill! I don't know just how far I will go with a new paint job, etc. even though it does show some expected wear from is decades of use. It looks OK to me, all things considered. I have a project in mind and the morticing capability of this drill press is just what I needed!

Grace and peace to you all. Have a wonderful Thanksgiving (as if we needed a special day for that!).

 

[schor]

That press is almost the same as my 42b. I really like mine. I've got mine posted lately in the cool drill press forum.

I looked on vintage machinery for yours but it's not there the 3580 and 3581 have a could docs.

I'm sure you'll enjoy that press of yours.

 

[timmay_8]

I just wanted to say that I've had a Craftsman 101.03582 for 3 years now. I bought it for around $70 and it ran decently, but like with all old things I acquire, I like to clean all the rust off, inspect every part, etc. Well, I became unemployed shortly afterwards, halfway through disassembling it and it's been collecting dust till I finally worked on it again this past week. I don't have the time to remove all the rust and repaint it, but I got all the working/moving parts cleaned up, relubed, removed all the rust from the table and base surfaces, and inspected the bearings. All 3 quill/spindle/pulley bearings were in great shape. The motor's bearings were all dried up and worn but that's about the only thing really worn. Because I needed to use the drill press right away I just put it all together, even with the worn motor bearings. I just packed grease in it (even with the old grease, which I know is not the best). It runs great. I have bearings on order. The only thing I'm missing is the top cone shaped quill guard. I also am working on an intermediate pulley modification similar to the one shown on http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/homemade-low-speed-conversion-craftsman-drill-press-220616.html but with a drop in install instead of being welded. I've seen something like that somewhere else on the web that someone has fabricated, but can't find it again. I've got almost all the parts so far except for a 2 to 3 inch thick, 2" diameter piece of metal with a lip (so it doesn't drop in the tube), so until I find something that work the modification is just going be on the back burners for now. If anyone has questions or needs pics or whatever, feel free to ask.