Skyman
Well-known member
This was recently given to me by my best friend. I'd be keen to learn anything about it from those who're in the know. Age, availability of a manual for it, etc.
Vintage drill press
- Thread starter Skyman
- Start date
easton65
Active member
VintageMachinery website has a manual for the same model, but a different design. Manual I found says about 1961. I imagine yours isn't far off.
http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=5655
Im on my phone right now, I couldn’t view the file, so good luck.
http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=5655
Im on my phone right now, I couldn’t view the file, so good luck.
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easton65
Active member
http://vintagemachinery.org/ is a lifesaver when it comes to this kind of stuff. I find myself getting lost in the millions of files on there. You're welcome!
BombShelter
Well-known member
I love it, cleaned up it might be a nice little workhorse. I don't think the sleeve on the post is original and the handle looks like a replacement but otherwise it's a beauty. I bought a Jet years ago and it was missing original parts, it took some time but I found all of them, big brands like this tend to be easier to source OEM parts.
Thanks. It's cleaning up pretty well, but will not look as-new on my watch. I'm time-division-multiplexing myself across numerous tasks and projects these days, so progress will be incremental. It does already look a hell of a lot better than it did. Nearly all of the rust is now gone, but the pitting and stains (read: patina) will remain. Fortunately, it looks as though it'll not need a lot of TLC to get it functioning well again. I'm debating some modifications to the rolling stand it's mounted on.
I ended up tearing this machine down farther than I'd anticipated, mostly due to noticing slight resistance to the return of its quill. I found a layer of old lubricant had become varnish-like. I'm nearly finished with cleaning that stuff off. It does raise a question for a rookie such as myself: What is the lubricant of choice for the pinion shaft and teeth, and the quill shaft and teeth? SAE 20W motor oil?
TIA.
TIA.
jmarkwolf
Well-known member
I love a drill press with no hits in the table!
jd5000
Well-known member
I use Super Lube synthetic grease
I use the same thing.
It’s pretty amazing goop. If you ever have time, dig into some of the information about that stuff on the super lube website. It has some pretty incredible properties that make it a perfect choice for about 95% of anything you need to grease. It’s also NLGI 2, so it’s a perfect substitute for a lot of petroleum based greases in automotive applications. They also make high temp for wheel bearings. Oh, also an O-ring version, among other variants. I’m a big fan of it and believe in replacing petroleum based lubricants with synthetics whenever one can. It’s just a vastly superior option in every way.
four.cycle
Well-known member
^ I would say "if it's working as is, don't screw with it". I've pulled recoil springs out of old mowers where it was evident the previous owner did what was necessary to get the machine running again, not always as nicely as I might have done it myself.
Thanjs for the advice.
The only reason I got into this spring is because I couldn’t get the quill to return fully without manual assistance. After removing, cleaning, inspecting and lubricating the quill, pinion and their bores, it’s still a little balky. I then noticed that it moved more smoothly with the spring removed than with it installed. Adding a thin nylon washer between the pinion gear and the thrust surface of the housing didn’t solve the problem. I then began to suspect that the culprit was the spring either binding on itself, rubbing too much against its housing and/or the machine’s head, or both.
The only reason I got into this spring is because I couldn’t get the quill to return fully without manual assistance. After removing, cleaning, inspecting and lubricating the quill, pinion and their bores, it’s still a little balky. I then noticed that it moved more smoothly with the spring removed than with it installed. Adding a thin nylon washer between the pinion gear and the thrust surface of the housing didn’t solve the problem. I then began to suspect that the culprit was the spring either binding on itself, rubbing too much against its housing and/or the machine’s head, or both.
four.cycle
Well-known member
^ The recoil spring on a walk-behind lawnmower is designed to fully wind the starter rope back up on the pulley. if the rope doesn't fully retract back into the housing, the recoil spring has not been wound up tight enough.
In YOUR case, I do not know what function that mechanism serves. I had to look it up. This man explains how to replace the spring, and after watching the video I'm thinking you are probably correct about your guess that your spring is somehow binding up under that cover.
I've never repaired a drill press.
I've replaced a lot of those springs on mowers.
Be sure to wear eye protection. Full face shield is even better.
If you have a cuirass laying about, put that on as well.
In YOUR case, I do not know what function that mechanism serves. I had to look it up. This man explains how to replace the spring, and after watching the video I'm thinking you are probably correct about your guess that your spring is somehow binding up under that cover.
I've never repaired a drill press.
I've replaced a lot of those springs on mowers.
Be sure to wear eye protection. Full face shield is even better.
If you have a cuirass laying about, put that on as well.
Jazz1
Well-known member
I recently picked up this Canadian Buffalo made by Canadian Blower and Forge Company Kitchener Ontario.
Drill press was part of estate,,larger than i was expecting but the daughter and her son were able to carry it out of the basement and load it in my truck..the grand total was $50.
Drill press was part of estate,,larger than i was expecting but the daughter and her son were able to carry it out of the basement and load it in my truck..the grand total was $50.
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four.cycle
Well-known member
lovely. if you have a model number, I probably have a catalog image of that unit.
but what inquiring minds want to know is: what's the story on "THE MIGHTY SS16 MULE DRIVE"?
(remember: there is no kink shaming on GJ - you're among friends.)
but what inquiring minds want to know is: what's the story on "THE MIGHTY SS16 MULE DRIVE"?
(remember: there is no kink shaming on GJ - you're among friends.)
Jazz1
Well-known member
The numbers on the base are B73 and 11192lovely. if you have a model number, I probably have a catalog image of that unit.
but what inquiring minds want to know is: what's the story on "THE MIGHTY SS16 MULE DRIVE"?
(remember: there is no kink shaming on GJ - you're among friends.)
The “Mighty SS16 mule drive” is just that.
I store mule drive when the Mighty SS16 has its blower unit mounted
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De-rusting the chuck key is now the final item before I declare the project completed. And I think I'll add a momentary foot switch to the setup. As noted at the outset, this was not intended to be a full cosmetic restoration. It's just been a functional rehab and overall cleanup, with fresh input power, and various minor mechanical issues resolved. It now runs well, and I'm pleased with the result.
Here it is now:
Here it is now:
crguy
Well-known member
That switch is too far away when you need to get to it in a hurry.De-rusting the chuck key is now the final item before I declare the project completed. And I think I'll add a momentary foot switch to the setup. As noted at the outset, this was not intended to be a full cosmetic restoration. It's just been a functional rehab and overall cleanup, with fresh input power, and various minor mechanical issues resolved. It now runs well, and I'm pleased with the result.
Here it is now:
four.cycle
Well-known member
^ The drill press is fabulous, but you need some more pliers.
four.cycle
Well-known member
I didn't notice that, but I did notice there is nothing to prevent an object that might get loose from flying through that drywall in back.
Yep. That's why I'll be adding the momentary foot switch.
I relocated the switch from where it had been mounted (it was on the outside left rear corner) and added a second one for use with a light that I might eventually add. They are now placed where they're not vulnerable to getting whacked when this thing is being rolled around in the workshop by a clumsy and inattentive person. Not that there's anybody around here who matches that description, of course...
That's what all of the pliers are there for.
And drywall repairs are just so easy.But seriously, this thing won't be used while parked where it was when I shot those photos - in fact, it's not even there now. That was just where it was when I wrapped up the last of the rehab chores. I really like that the friend who gave this to me had mounted it onto that nifty mobile cart. It has me now planning to build a similar cart for the drill press that's in my garage, so that I can get it off of the workbench where it's mostly just in the way.
four.cycle
Well-known member
^ You have to understand that I look at that set-up and try to visualize my own self operating that thing. I could manage to put several items through that wall with a drill press.
I sold my Rockwell radial arm drill press in 1976 to Tim King for $50 bucks for rent money. Probably a good thing - I would have killed somebody (or myself) with that thing.
I sold my Rockwell radial arm drill press in 1976 to Tim King for $50 bucks for rent money. Probably a good thing - I would have killed somebody (or myself) with that thing.
That's an interesting comment, 4c. I'm far from a novice DP user, and even at my advanced age, I don't recall ever having a DP launch an object while I was operating it, and I don't recall ever seeing it happen to anyone else in my presence. I understand how it can happen, but among the numerous power tools I use, the DP seems fairly far down on the list of those that would carry a high risk of launching a workpiece, presuming that appropriate prophylactic measures are employed.
An assortment of accidents, injuries, and near-misses in my younger years taught me to become increasingly safety-conscious. It's nearly impossible to foresee every Really Bad Thing that might occur, but the more I can imagine, the more I can prevent. This mindset has served me pretty well so far.
I have been mulling some sort of splatter shield to capture cutting oil droplets and swarf. Maybe I should make it UFO-proof as well.
An assortment of accidents, injuries, and near-misses in my younger years taught me to become increasingly safety-conscious. It's nearly impossible to foresee every Really Bad Thing that might occur, but the more I can imagine, the more I can prevent. This mindset has served me pretty well so far.
I have been mulling some sort of splatter shield to capture cutting oil droplets and swarf. Maybe I should make it UFO-proof as well.
crguy
Well-known member
Not a fan of foot switches for home shop use.Yep. That's why I'll be adding the momentary foot switch.
I relocated the switch from where it had been mounted (it was on the outside left rear corner) and added a second one for use with a light that I might eventually add. They are now placed where they're not vulnerable to getting whacked when this thing is being rolled around in the workshop by a clumsy and inattentive person. Not that there's anybody around here who matches that description, of course...
four.cycle
Well-known member
Let's just say that everything I know I learned the hard way.
If there's a way to do it wrong, I've tried it.
If there's a way to do it that involves physical injuries, I've probably been there.
This is why I do not work on automobiles if at all possible. For that matter, I generally try to avoid using tools at all - I just break stuff and hurt myself most of the time.
Nice job!! If it were mine I'd mount a toggle switch and small enclosure right under the front of the belt guard. You have a machine screw already there as a solid attachment mount. Just attach a small flat steel bar to an electrical enclose and drill a small hole in the top of the bar to attach to the belt guard machine screw. The enclose could also be an attachment point for a small gooseneck lamp.
(not a fan of foot switches for DP's but to each his own)
(not a fan of foot switches for DP's but to each his own)
Canadian Joe
New member
- Joined
- Sep 5, 2025
- Messages
- 1
my info shows it was built in 1968
OK, that's two votes against, but without backing info. What's the reason / risk?
Mike
Provincial
Well-known member
Accidental activation. This can be addressed with a good guard over the switch that prevents stepping directly on the button.