To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Vintage Mac tool boxes

Model A Fan

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 1, 2011
Messages
1,209
Location
NW Washington
Wow, I can honestly say you went above and beyond in your efforts. Most people would have been content to wire wheel the whole thing and repaint it all. I am glad you saved the stickers (as silly as it sounds, and as much work as I am sure it was) as they lend the box some vintage value and make it apparent that the box has "been there and done that" in a sense. It looks great, good work.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
T

tylerlayne

Active member
Joined
Apr 7, 2015
Messages
28
Location
St. Augustine,Florida
Thanks for the compliments. I have been a automotive paint and bodyman for the past 35 years so I just prepped them like I would a car. I thought about using base coat/clear coat on them but kept reminding myself they were going to be a tool box that I would work out of so I just went with acrylic enamel. The paint that was on them from the factory was ****.
 

zkling

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 23, 2007
Messages
16,939
Would you be willing to provide some basic tips to a less than amateur painter such as myself? Specifically how did you cover the edges with paint when the box was still assembled? What brand paint did you use? Number of coats? What was the total surface prep besides sanding the gummy existing paint? Do you feel it is necessary to remove all of the factory paint? From your sanded pictures it appears you only sanded to bare in spots.

Thanks
 

doan

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 25, 2012
Messages
585
Location
Frisco, TX
Yours turned out great, glad you saved some of the stickers.

I got a similar set that was in my grandfathers shop - tractor dealer.

He passed in 1990 and his shop sat basically unused for a long time. His shop was a quonset hut barn. A few years ago a tornado came through and basically blew the barn away. Fortunately, tools are heavy, so most of them stayed.

This set was his personal toolbox. The paint was still decent, but the tornado beat it up pretty good.

DSC_0520.JPG


DSC_0536.JPG


Here's how they look now, sitting next to my Craftsman box that I bought in '91 right after graduating from college.

DSC_0852.JPG


His were made in 73, I don't think he bought them new (he was a big auction guy), but I remember them being in his shop when I was young.

DSC_0543.JPG


DSC_0844.JPG
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
T

tylerlayne

Active member
Joined
Apr 7, 2015
Messages
28
Location
St. Augustine,Florida
Would you be willing to provide some basic tips to a less than amateur painter such as myself? Specifically how did you cover the edges with paint when the box was still assembled? What brand paint did you use? Number of coats? What was the total surface prep besides sanding the gummy existing paint? Do you feel it is necessary to remove all of the factory paint? From your sanded pictures it appears you only sanded to bare in spots.

Thanks
About the only area's I would have had a problem painting was the top lip on the drawers. I solved that problem by barely opening the top drawer just so the top lip was exposed. Then I opened each drawer below just beyond the drawer above it so it looked like the steps on a stair case. I bought a quart of sherwin williams dimensions line acrylic enamel. Once the paint was reduced and hardener was mixed in it gave me 1-3/4 quarts of sprayable paint. This easily gave me 3 coats of paint (note I taped the back side of the boxes so they did not get fresh paint). On the spots where I had a good amount of bare metal exposed I used epoxy primer on for adhesion purposes. The only place I had to totally strip to the metal was the top box lid. It took a lot of heat in the fire and was covered in surface rust. First thing I did to the lid was use a wire wheel in my drill and get as much rust off as possible that way. Then I went over the lid with 80 grit sand paper. After that I used rust mort (a acidic compound) a product by SEM that converts rust back to metal on the lid,followed by epoxy primer. After epoxy primer I used a 2 part (hardener-primer) urethane primer on the whole box. Once sanded the urethane primer acts as a sealer to seal all that crappy factory paint underneath it. Then one advantage of using acrylic enamel is the primer can be finished out in 220 grit sand paper as opposed to base coat clear coat having to be finished in 400 grit. After sanding with the 220 and being sure all my imperfections were gone it was time to spray. Using the urethane primer made it to where all the old paint was sealed under the primer so mainly what I was sanding out was scratches and chips.
 
OP
T

tylerlayne

Active member
Joined
Apr 7, 2015
Messages
28
Location
St. Augustine,Florida
Yours turned out great, glad you saved some of the stickers.

I got a similar set that was in my grandfathers shop - tractor dealer.

He passed in 1990 and his shop sat basically unused for a long time. His shop was a quonset hut barn. A few years ago a tornado came through and basically blew the barn away. Fortunately, tools are heavy, so most of them stayed.

This set was his personal toolbox. The paint was still decent, but the tornado beat it up pretty good.

DSC_0520.JPG


DSC_0536.JPG


Here's how they look now, sitting next to my Craftsman box that I bought in '91 right after graduating from college.

DSC_0852.JPG


His were made in 73, I don't think he bought them new (he was a big auction guy), but I remember them being in his shop when I was young.

DSC_0543.JPG


DSC_0844.JPG

Wish my boxes would have looked that good . I would not have painted them.
 

zkling

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 23, 2007
Messages
16,939
About the only area's I would have had a problem painting was the top lip on the drawers. I solved that problem by barely opening the top drawer just so the top lip was exposed. Then I opened each drawer below just beyond the drawer above it so it looked like the steps on a stair case. I bought a quart of sherwin williams dimensions line acrylic enamel. Once the paint was reduced and hardener was mixed in it gave me 1-3/4 quarts of sprayable paint. This easily gave me 3 coats of paint (note I taped the back side of the boxes so they did not get fresh paint). On the spots where I had a good amount of bare metal exposed I used epoxy primer on for adhesion purposes. The only place I had to totally strip to the metal was the top box lid. It took a lot of heat in the fire and was covered in surface rust. First thing I did to the lid was use a wire wheel in my drill and get as much rust off as possible that way. Then I went over the lid with 80 grit sand paper. After that I used rust mort (a acidic compound) a product by SEM that converts rust back to metal on the lid,followed by epoxy primer. After epoxy primer I used a 2 part (hardener-primer) urethane primer on the whole box. Once sanded the urethane primer acts as a sealer to seal all that crappy factory paint underneath it. Then one advantage of using acrylic enamel is the primer can be finished out in 220 grit sand paper as opposed to base coat clear coat having to be finished in 400 grit. After sanding with the 220 and being sure all my imperfections were gone it was time to spray. Using the urethane primer made it to where all the old paint was sealed under the primer so mainly what I was sanding out was scratches and chips.

Thank you very much. I'm trying to up my painting game over my usual Rustoleum job. :beer:
 

Wrenched

Member
Joined
Jun 9, 2013
Messages
24
Wow, that is fantastic! Very nice work! I ran across fairly vintage Snap On tool chest and kind of like the worn/aged look. Would it be possible to just clear coat it to help preserve it? Sorry not trying to hijack but since it's obvious you have a lot of paint experience, I figured I'd get some good advice from you.
 

fsantana

Member
Joined
Oct 23, 2014
Messages
20
Location
Bulverde, Texas
Tylerlayne, I know we are over a year out from when you started this thread but I have the same tool chests and I want to paint too. What color did you use to match the original?
Thanks
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom