Vintage Motor Help

[Cruzan80]

So I have a small direct-drive paint sprayer, and the motor has always needed a kick-start to get moving. Will hum until I help start it spinning, and then decides to move. So I decided to open it up and see what was going on. Besides a ton of dust/grime/etc, I ran across a few things where I don't know how they work. So I am asking the hive mind.

Part 1 is the main rotor(?) has a decidedly blue cast to most of it, almost as though it has been overheated. Do I clean off the oxidation, or leave it?

Part 2 is the wires in the coil. I know I don't want to damage them in any way, but since it was a PAINT sprayer, some of the paint/primer seems to have gotten in there. This is after I blew it off with air. On the second photo, you can see where the paint is actually on the copper (top strand, right side). Fine steel wool, or leave it?

Part 3 is the fact I do not seem to see any kind of capacitor, start cap or other design which would help diagnose the original startup problems. The end of the shaft has a brown bumper kind of thing, that when depressed enough will hit the two paddles (up and down in this picture) and cause them to deflect. Nothing was wired into the hole closest to the camera. The final picture shows the other end, which is attached to the blind-bell in the motor. This has an overhang, which the main circle can touch or not, depending on the amount of force pushing it (off the two paddles?).

I also am attaching pictures of the motor nameplate, which lists the type as SP140. and the serial as L4 49. I haven't found this particular sprayer in the catalog, much less the 1949 catalog, and I thought the Long C Craftsman had dropped out by then, in favor of the oval with bars.

So what do I need to fix, and where can I get the parts? Ideas, suggestions, WAG's?

 

[Oregon rock crusher]

I probably wouldn't mess with the rotor or the stator much but it does look to have gotten quite hot at some point and could have fatal issues. Unlikely anything you can do about that. Maybe spray both stator and rotor with electric motor cleaner and blow dry. The parts you show in part 3 are the centrifugal starting circuit. Lets the motor start with a little more torque until it gets to speed. Should move freely and even if you have to push it over to get the motor started you should be able to see and hear that starting circuit kick out when it gets to speed. Ensure the bearings are well lubed and then make sure your pump isn't the problem. If it is too hard to turn the motor won't stand a chance. Ed.

 

[Cruzan80]

Bearings may be part of the problem. They are the old sintered bronze bearings, but I don't know how to get the oil down into them once I seal back up the motor. Where the caps should be seem to be solid, and there is a wicking material down inside each bell, which may hold the oil? The shaft seems to be in good shape, and no obvious extra wear on the bearings. I can grab pictures of that as well, if it can help.

Once it gets running, everything is fine. I am just wanting to figure out a way to get it moving a bit easier. I also plan on re-filling the pump with new oil, in case that was part of the issue. I was able to turn it with my hand after emptying, so I don't think it is too damaged.

 

[Oregon rock crusher]

Bearings may be part of the problem. They are the old sintered bronze bearings, but I don't know how to get the oil down into them once I seal back up the motor. Where the caps should be seem to be solid, and there is a wicking material down inside each bell, which may hold the oil?

Yes that is how it works. make sure the bearings are wet when put the shaft in and fill those oil wells (bells) with a light oil so it can wick up and keep the bearings lubed. I'd still make sure that centrifugal switch is working though. At least clean up the contacts in it. Ed.