To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Vintage Pedestal Polisher/Buffer

SpiderDave

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 17, 2018
Messages
207
Hi Everybody! I just picked up a vintage or older pedestal type dual 44" buffer/polisher. I've been trying to get my hands on one for years with no luck, until this one came home with me.

The motor badge on it reads: The Standard Electric Tool Company, Cincinnati Ohio, USA. 'S' Cadet. Type: 10KBAPB, Model 101, 110v, 60 cycle, 1 ph, 3450 rpm. My cel phone camera isn't cooperating. So, I found one online that is pretty close to mine to give an idea.

I don't want to use it until I change the oil. It turns freely, runs great, no play or issues i can clearly see or hear. I was hoping someone would be able to tell me or recommend as to 'what' oil is used to lubricate it? And how much or how to tell if it's full - to where? On each side of the bell housings that support the shafts. There are fill plugs on top, and a drain on the bottom of each side. So I imagine it requires some fluid or lubricant? Like a compressor or a rear diff. I'd like to drain it, refill and see what happens? But with what? I really don't want to guess or wing it after such a long wait to get this thing.

I'm curious what would be the largest pads I could use on this? I have both 12' and 10" already.

When I rotate the shaft - in the intended direction that it's going to spin when on - it's quiet. When I turn it in reverse, there's this very slight whimpering whistly sound. I was thinking this might be the brushes in the motor? That they're shaped or broke in to that particular direction. So going against that grain (micro chatter) is making the squeak? It's very slight like a mouse in the distance, nothing serious. I assume it's just the brushes being pushed backwards, nothing more? NO biggie? Or should I open it up and check the brushes just in case? Or wait until I have a problem - don't fix it if it ain't broke kinda thing. Ha! Maybe there aren't even any brushes in it? IDK, but I'd hate to break a good oil seal to find out, if I don't need to.

Also, I looked all over for a manual on it. Does anyone have any ideas where I could find one? It's not a complicated machine, it'd just be nice to have it. I was hoping for a parts list, bearings info, specs or especially an exploded view diagram. It'd be helpful to have a leg up for any future repairs, since I plan on keeping this one for a long time.

All advice and input is welcome.
Thanks for reading, and thanks in advance too!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_6333.jpg
    IMG_6333.jpg
    149.5 KB · Views: 89
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

larry4406

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 27, 2006
Messages
19,565
Location
Northern Virginia
Nice find. I would think the noise from reverse manual rotation is indeed the brushes.

Sorry I can't help on the oil/lube recommendation.

I would plug it in for a quick spin though!
 

JHuston

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 21, 2016
Messages
301
Location
Canton, Ohio
Unless it's a D.C. or repulsion induction motor, it won't have brushes, but the noise may also be coming from the centrifugal switch, which isn't uncommon and doesn't indicate a problem, as it will break contact once the motor builds up speed.
As for the oil, I'd look for more information on the vintage machinery site.
-James Huston
 
OP
S

SpiderDave

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 17, 2018
Messages
207
Thanks 930dreamer. Does yours have the square head threaded plugs on the 'bell housing' for lack of a better word? I have 6 total. Mine may not require oil either. I'm just trying not to leave anything to chance so I can use it not wondering. A little paranoid? Okay, yes I agree, no doubt.

Those two top plugs may just be for an occasional oil can pump lube. And the underside one could be to drain any excess that settles to the bottom? I've had vintage tools that took oil before. When I saw those threaded plugs, I couldn't help but wonder? The top ones now that I think about it, are over if not close to where the bearings would be. That can't be coincidence? Even if they were just lube points, I still wonder what oil would be best?

It runs super smooth though. It seems a great machine.
 

Attachments

  • everbilt-plugs-802379-64_1000.jpg
    everbilt-plugs-802379-64_1000.jpg
    40.9 KB · Views: 11
Last edited:
OP
S

SpiderDave

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 17, 2018
Messages
207
Thanks JHuston, Went to vintage & vintage resto sites with no results. Tried all kinds of searches and forums. If I could find a manual or something, it would likely have it all in the maint section. (slim chance though) They're probably just lube points and drains, but like to make sure and find out - including what the best oil would be? 30w or 80w was typical when I was a kid for the older machines I was around. But I wasn't really paying as much attention back then either.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

2oolhound

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 18, 2010
Messages
5,918
Location
BC Canada
I'd bet you just squirt a bit of oil in there to lube the bearings (which you could replace eventually with sealed bearings requiring no lube). If those tubes were full of oil the bearing would have to run in oil which is crazy. A broken or worn seal would leak oil into the electric engine. Maybe there's a cavity in there to store just a bit of oil to leech into the bearing. You pull top and bottom plugs, add just enough oil to fill the reservoir and then it leaks out the bottom and you know you have enough. I'd want to take one housing off to check before doing that. I'd wait till it was just about finished winding down after killing the power and squirt at most a teaspoon of oil in there and call it good. If the bearing starts running dry you should be able to hear it.

It's only 1hp so a 10" wheel is pushing it but I'm sure you could run it and the 12". On the bigger buffers you can gang 4 or 5 - 12" wheels together without stalling it. I've run a 10" on my 1 hp with no problems.
 

crugg65

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 5, 2018
Messages
57
Well I would keep looking for the manual that was for your grinder/polisher. There’s always valuable information and sometimes maintenance schedules. In the meantime I might use the same oil that B&G pumps use to lubricate the pump and motor bearings. They have the same oil cups like you have on each end of the motor to lubricate the bearings.
209566d11d716d64816c7132ebf3ae4d.jpg
008322a4b0421668048213fb641df14f.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
OP
S

SpiderDave

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 17, 2018
Messages
207
Sealed bearings is a great idea. If they ever need replaced, I'm doing that.

It was painted before I found it. But there's still no evidence any oil at all on it anywhere - for what it's worth. You'd think if it held oil and being as old as it is, it would have at least the tiniest leak somewhere, but it doesn't. If I can't find out, I probably do that, removing one side to have a looksie to find out. But, it's sounding more and more like they're just lube ports for an occasional tsp into the bearing like you said. I may have the same or similar one as 390dreamer does, and his doesn't require any but lube.

10"? Perfect! I bought a box of 15 un-used 10" buff wheels from a yardsale last year for $5. Ordered a 6 pc set of assorted buff wheel compound last night. Thanks!
 
OP
S

SpiderDave

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 17, 2018
Messages
207
I found some online, HDepot carries it and I'm gona pick up some while I'm there tomorrow. Thank you crugg65
 

Ole Slewfoot

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 22, 2016
Messages
5,098
Location
Freedom, CA
In the catalogs on the vintagemachinery site, Manufacturer states oil is better than grease, and there is a labyrinth seal which should not be a wearing part.
It was priced over $1800 in todays money in the 60s price list.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom