Vintage Reed Vice pickup.

[Ksem89]

Vintage Reed Vise pickup.

HI! New here,

Anytime I find something heavy and old I like to learn as much as I can about it! My cheap Vise broke, actually I broke 2 of them.

Right away I saw a free vise on craigslist. This thing is a monster! And weighs a lot! It says Reed mfg co. Erie PA usa.

Other side says No. 205.

I will be mounting it on my bench, and probably just knocking the loose rust off her. Still opens and closes and swivels as if its freshly greased.

Any info appreciated!

Thanks!

k

 

[ganymede]

Your awesome Reed was made sometime before WW2 but not that much before, probably 1930's.

 

[Ksem89]

Your awesome Reed was made sometime before WW2 but not that much before, probably 1930's.

Wow, thats awesome! These things are made to last! Thanks for the info. Should I clean it up, or would that be a disservice to it?

Thanks!

k

 

[EOC_Jason]

Whatever you want, at the very least re-grease the mainscrew and the front where the screw pushes against the dynamic. Maybe straight out those lockdown handles.

 

[Rileysan]

Wow, thats awesome! These things are made to last! Thanks for the info. Should I clean it up, or would that be a disservice to it?

Thanks!

k

Great find! And you have earned an official GJ "You ****" for finding that vise for free!

Reed vises are still plentiful, in large part because of how well they were made. So clean yours up, paint it, and enjoy the last vise you will ever need. But please don't paint the slide!

Brian

 

[Ksem89]

Great find! And you have earned an official GJ "You ****" for finding that vise for free!

Reed vises are still plentiful, in large part because of how well they were made. So clean yours up, paint it, and enjoy the last vise you will ever need. But please don't paint the slide!

Brian

Haha! I keep my eyes on craigslist, and was pretty happy to see a free vice listed just moments after I needed one! Snagged it asap. Even cooler knowing its a little bit of history. Had no idea it was that big when I went to get it, was pleasantly surprised. Heavy tho!

And Free makes it even better.

Do these things come apart pretty easy? So I can clean and put it back together?

Thanks

k

 

[ganymede]

Wow, thats awesome! These things are made to last! Thanks for the info. Should I clean it up, or would that be a disservice to it?

Thanks!

k

Like others said, if you're gonna use it then yeah, Id clean it up and regrease it.
Dirt n chunks of metal are abrasive.
If you paint it black is the probable original color.
There are several Reed patents your vise has you may be interested in ...
903,137
1,048,100
and 1,106,860.
Dis-assembly..
Just open the vise until the slide stops moving even though you're turning the handle.
Pull the slide the rest of the way out by hand ... both hands. Its heavy and awkward.
Flip the slide over and inside at the front you'll notice a small collar around the main screw. Its held on by a small set screw. Undo that and you can slide the collar off and remove the main screw from the slide.
Undo the two swivel lock handles all the way and remove them. The bolts they're attached to can be removed throught that big opening on the bottom of the vise.
That enormous flathead screw is next . A breaker bar and a drag link socket shoud work.
Once you unscrew that the swivel base can be separated from the main body of the vise.
Beneath the body youll see the base of the pin that keeps the main nut from backing out of its dovetail slot. Drive that pin out from the bottom up I believe and you can remove the main nut .
That should be enough for a thorough clean up.

 

[Ksem89]

Wow, well ill get to it!

Thanks, very helpful!

I have a blaster, but in reading other threads it sounds like that not a good idea?

Is wire wheeling the better option?

k

 

[Ksem89]

Hm, didnt get too far. This piece fell out, and the slide is not moving much further than this.

Am I screwed with the broken piece, and any tricks to get the slide out all the way?

k

 

[EOC_Jason]

If it's not just crud on the side itself, the back of the slide has probably mushroomed some from people beating on it. Feel along the top corner of the slide, if they aren't flush, push the slide back in and use a file to gentle square off the corners. Then you should be able to slide it out.

As for the collar breaking. Clean & degrease it good (with like brake cleaner), and use some JB Weld to glue it back together. That cast piece looks pretty porous so it should have plenty of surface area to grab. That collar is what pulls the slide open as you open the vise so there isn't too much stress on it.

Alternatively you can find those on McMaster Carr (I forgot what they are called), as long as you can find one with an ID that will slide over the screw you should be good.

 

[thehorse13]

Free? Yep, you ****.

Now that we have that out of the way, you can make your own collar. If that's the only thing that you find wrong with that vise, you still ****.

Hit it with a wire wheel. I wouldn't sand blast it.

Welcome.

 

[ganymede]

.... Alternatively you can find those on McMaster Carr (I forgot what they are called), as long as you can find one with an ID that will slide over the screw you should be good.

Shaft collars.
They may not have one that fits perfectly but can be made to work with a little filing or grinding.

I can't advise you on getting the slide out but the collar is broken by the factory. How else are you gonna get it on the vise screw? Those two cast iron collar pieces can only fit back together one way and that's because they're perfectly mated where it was broken. When it's time to put it back together slip it on the main vise screw and put it back in the slide holding those pieces together with your fingers then screw it back in place.

DON'T let those pieces drop on your shop floor!

I know this because I just refurshed my Reed 214 R vise.

That's a great vise and you definitely got a YOU **** deal! Congrats and welcome!

You're thinking of the split nut found on post 1936/38 Reeds.
The op's is the earlier more common type and it's definitely broken.

 

[Ksem89]

Ok well, I got the slide out, Just took a big hammer.

As for the broken part, Im not sure JB weld would hold it together very well. I will hit Ace hardware and check out their Shaft collars. Get somthing close, and some washers as needed.

As for that huge screw at the bottom that was already loose and came out by hand

Thanks for the help everyone.

k

 

[txlonghorn1989]

Shaft collars.
They may not have one that fits perfectly but can be made to work with a little filing or grinding.



You're thinking of the split nut found on post 1936/38 Reeds.
The op's is the earlier more common type and it's definitely broken.

I realized that after I posted my response...why I deleted it.

 

[bluebolt]

You ****.

With a little work that will be a great vise, Reed is one of my favorites.

 

[WWShop]

A definite You ****! You can't go wrong with a Reed vise. I have a 104R mounted to my bench and I love it. Its currently holding a Prentiss no. 52 vise that I'm working on. If it hasn't been mentioned, I would recommend buying the Reed brass jaws that you form onto the vise.

 

[Ksem89]

Ya know, I actually Appreciate all the "you ****" going around

You are all very helpful and I thank you!

I just looked up the Reed brass jaws, hmm those are interesting. I will see how she cleans up, the jaws actually are in really good shape, I think, just a little ding on one end.

k

 

[Carla]

Hm, didnt get too far. This piece fell out, and the slide is not moving much further than this.

Am I screwed with the broken piece, and any tricks to get the slide out all the way?

k

Hello, Ksem,

Actually, making a replacement collar in mild steel is dead easy for anyone who does turning.......I've done a few of them, and I'd offer to do yours myself, but, unfortunately, I've had a bit of a cardiac issue, and can't be doing machine work any more. I'm sure there would be someone on this forum who does........and would do one for you if you send him the part to copy. Note......an 'off-the-shelf' shaft collar of the correct internal size would be too large on the o.d.

cheers

Carla

 

[KMScott]

Hello, Ksem,

Actually, making a replacement collar in mild steel is dead easy for anyone who does turning.......I've done a few of them, and I'd offer to do yours myself, but, unfortunately, I've had a bit of a cardiac issue, and can't be doing machine work any more. I'm sure there would be someone on this forum who does........and would do one for you if you send him the part to copy. Note......an 'off-the-shelf' shaft collar of the correct internal size would be too large on the o.d.

cheers

Carla

I would be happy to help, send me a PM. Carla I hope all is well for you. Anything any of us here on GJ can do to help you is just a PM away.

Kevin

 

[Ksem89]

My brother is a metal machinist. I am going to see if he can whip one of these up for me. If not, I will take you up on your offer KMScott.

Thanks so much

k

 

[davethorik]

That is a nice grab, what does it weigh around 90-100 lbs?
It seems like Reed made about 50, 4" or 4.5" vises for every 1 other vise of any other size.

Also seems like there are even more 6" vises than 5"ers, true of about all the big names and not just Reed. Nice sized vise, if I'm right about being ~100lbs, that's ~32lbs heavier than a Reed 204-1/2 for additional 1/2" of jaw. My dad has a 5" Columbian that is about perfect size for workshop use. Not too big, not too small.

 

[lakeview2628]

I can't believe you got this Vise for free! Anyone know where I can get Reed Vise parts? I just picked up a 1C that doesn't have the swivel bottom. I'm thinking of just bolting it to my workbench and using it as a fixed vise if I can't find a replacement bottom. I thought I'd ask the experts.

 

[Ksem89]

That is a nice grab, what does it weigh around 90-100 lbs?
It seems like Reed made about 50, 4" or 4.5" vises for every 1 other vise of any other size.

Also seems like there are even more 6" vises than 5"ers, true of about all the big names and not just Reed. Nice sized vise, if I'm right about being ~100lbs, that's ~32lbs heavier than a Reed 204-1/2 for additional 1/2" of jaw. My dad has a 5" Columbian that is about perfect size for workshop use. Not too big, not too small.

Yea I think its right around 90lbs. I had no idea it was that big. The guy left it in front of his house for me to pickup. Couldnt tell from the pics of the size, but man, i was shocked when I saw it lol, and again when I had to pick it up.

k

 

[nutjob]

I can't believe you got this Vise for free! Anyone know where I can get Reed Vise parts? I just picked up a 1C that doesn't have the swivel bottom. I'm thinking of just bolting it to my workbench and using it as a fixed vise if I can't find a replacement bottom. I thought I'd ask the experts.

Strange timing, I looked at a Reed 1C Friday that was missing the swivel base. The vise is real nice condition but was listed at $140. I did not try to get a better price yet, need to look into what a base would cost.

Kevin

 

[6PTsocket]

We had a big Reed at work and co worker thought he had discovered a broken collar. But that one clearly had the cast grooves to control the split. The one the OP has seems to be broken way off center, at least it appears that way in the pictures. Is it a split collar or just broken?

Ok well, I got the slide out, Just took a big hammer.

As for the broken part, Im not sure JB weld would hold it together very well. I will hit Ace hardware and check out their Shaft collars. Get somthing close, and some washers as needed.

As for that huge screw at the bottom that was already loose and came out by hand

Thanks for the help everyone.

k

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[Ksem89]

We had a big Reed at work and co worker thought he had discovered a broken collar. But that one clearly had the cast grooves to control the split. The one the OP has seems to be broken way off center, at least it appears that way in the pictures. Is it a split collar or just broken?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Is just plain broken.

k

 

[EOC_Jason]

We had a big Reed at work and co worker thought he had discovered a broken collar. But that one clearly had the cast grooves to control the split. The one the OP has seems to be broken way off center, at least it appears that way in the pictures. Is it a split collar or just broken?

Broken...

The split collar goes on the front of the newer models and is threaded, this allows you to adjust the backlash.

His slides on and goes on the inside like most other vises... It should be one solid piece.

 

[Ksem89]

Did a little wire wheeling on the vise today. Is there a good way to get all the grease/grime off and out of it? Something to soak it in?

I did read about evaporust, which I may use to get the little bit of rust off that I couldnt wheel.

k

 

[lakeview2628]

Strange timing, I looked at a Reed 1C Friday that was missing the swivel base. The vise is real nice condition but was listed at $140. I did not try to get a better price yet, need to look into what a base would cost.

Kevin

Mine is in rough shape and needs a lot of work before it can be put into service. I only paid about $40 for it in an auction but it probably needs $100 worth of labor put into it
If I can't find a base in a reasonable time frame I'm thinking about drilling a hole on the other side of the base and mounting it has a fixed vise.
It's currently sitting in evaporust. I'll post pics later

 

[lakeview2628]

Did a little wire wheeling on the vise today. Is there a good way to get all the grease/grime off and out of it? Something to soak it in?

I did read about evaporust, which I may use to get the little bit of rust off that I couldnt wheel.

k

My favorite Degreaser for tools is Simple Green. Effective enough without damaging. I love evaporust but the vise needs to be relatively clean for it to work properly. If you don't use simple green, you could just use dish soap solution and a wire brush before putting it in evaporust. Don't put any oil on it before the evaporust. Oil will inhibit the effects of evaporust.

 

[EOC_Jason]

To clean all the grease and grime that builds up on the inside I typically use old gasoline and a wire brush... I know, not the most environmentally friendly...

 

[Ksem89]

Alright, got all the heavy rust off, and and most of the grime. Will be picking up some wire wheel attachments for my Dremel to get to the tough spots. I also picked up some evaporust, which will be nice, because the vise has already flash rusted due to the humidity. I want to gather what I need, in order to be the humidity once I evaporust the vise.

1. Vise was Originally Black correct? What paint and Primer would you recommend?
2. No painting the sliding portions correct?
3. What do I coat the unseen inside parts with, like inside slider, boiled linseed oil?
4. I have seen some leave the clamp/jaw part raw? Should i do that or paint?
5. Is the handle to be painted black too? Do I leave sliding part of the handle raw because it will scratch?

Just want to gather the supplies I need to complete.

Thanks!

k

 

[bubinga]

very Nice Score!
Good Job!
Good For You.

 

[bubinga]

I would Not paint the handle, I would polish it up.

 

[Stadger]

That break looks awfully fresh, though.

 

[bubinga]

Re: Vintage Reed Vise pickup.

"Just open the vise until the slide stops moving even though you're turning the handle."
THANKS
Just took apart my Reed 3" vise apart like that and oiled the screw and shined up the slider.
Working smoother now!
It's more of a user than a show piece, but it had seen very little use by the previous owner.

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk

 

[EOC_Jason]

1. Vise was Originally Black correct? What paint and Primer would you recommend?
2. No painting the sliding portions correct?
3. What do I coat the unseen inside parts with, like inside slider, boiled linseed oil?
4. I have seen some leave the clamp/jaw part raw? Should i do that or paint?
5. Is the handle to be painted black too? Do I leave sliding part of the handle raw because it will scratch?

1. Probably black for that older one, but paint it whatever color you want! If you want it to really pop, get a paint-pen and do the lettering. (i.e. black paint + white paint pen.)

2. Leave the slide unpainted, use paste-wax or even car wax to coat it and prevent rust.

3. I typically just use primer on the unseen areas and leave it at that. Something is better than nothing.

4. Jaws should also be unpainted. Again, use paste-wax to prevent rust.

5. Handle and typically the knob on the end is left unpainted.

 

[Ksem89]

1. Probably black for that older one, but paint it whatever color you want! If you want it to really pop, get a paint-pen and do the lettering. (i.e. black paint + white paint pen.)

2. Leave the slide unpainted, use paste-wax or even car wax to coat it and prevent rust.

3. I typically just use primer on the unseen areas and leave it at that. Something is better than nothing.

4. Jaws should also be unpainted. Again, use paste-wax to prevent rust.

5. Handle and typically the knob on the end is left unpainted.

Thanks!! Yea, I was thinking the handle and knob left unpainted, but I noticed there was old paint on the knob, and the two end knobs. I am assuming its all the original paint, so That got me thinking if I should paint the knobs too, and just polish the rod.

k

 

[EOC_Jason]

That break looks awfully fresh, though.

Likely why it was thrown in the dumpster... lol.

 

[Ksem89]

Likely why it was thrown in the dumpster... lol.

Well the break could very well have been my fault, the slide was very hard to get out, and it took some hard turns of the handle, I bet it gave during that.

k