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Vintage Sink

MJBaldwin

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Joined
Jun 19, 2012
Messages
36
Location
Delano, MN
Hello All, I go on this site to look up random things throughout my garage. Just was reading a thread on how to "remove" a vintage cast iron sink. Not sure if this is the correct forum area although I have a similar question.

I just bought a vintage cast iron sink that the drain was one that had a plate for a floor mount. With that being said this has broke off (prior to purchase). My plan was to just install new piping to this although I cannot seem to figure out how to get this rusted piece off. The screws are not coming off. I will try to attach a few pictures to see if that would be helpful. I am going to be getting a cabinet made for this so I don't have to worry about what the actual underside of this unit looks like.

Also curious to see what people use to polish these up, the white enamel (I believe) looks great just a little "dull"

Thanks in advance
 

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Doug Arthurs

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Dec 1, 2012
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Ontario
Zip disc and grind the heads off. Remove the piece then lots of penetrating oil and vise grips to remove the stub sticking out.
 

Stuart in MN

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Sep 8, 2005
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23,120
Location
Minneapolis
Also curious to see what people use to polish these up, the white enamel (I believe) looks great just a little "dull"



It's probably a baked on porcelain finish. Don't use anything too abrasive on it, as it can get scratched. I'd polish it like you would a car - clean it well first, then use an automotive type polish followed by wax.
 
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Lynden

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Joined
May 23, 2015
Messages
672
Location
Southern California
Clean your sink with Bon Ami cleanser. It will not scratch the surface.

"Bon Ami 1886 Original Formula Cleaning Powder is the original, “classic” formulation of feldspar and tallow soap. This product can be used on all of the same surfaces as Bon Ami Powder cleanser AND the 1886 formula can be used on glass, windows & mirrors and vintage auto windshields.

Bon Ami Powder Cleanser is better for hard water areas. For info on ingredients, how to use it and surfaces it is/isn’t recommended for, please see our website."

https://www.acehardware.com/departm...g-and-disinfectants/scouring-cleaners/1487503

https://www.acehardware.com/departm...ing-and-disinfectants/scouring-cleaners/10035
 

MushCreek

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Jan 14, 2015
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9,779
Location
Upstate South Carolina
I used an antique sink in our powder room. I bought some porcelain refinishing paint, and although I wasn't expecting much, it's holding up really well.
 

Larryjones

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Oct 11, 2015
Messages
494
Location
WV
If the procelain is damaged look into bathtub refinishing, either you do or other do it for you. Don't fuss with the screws, cut them off and drill and retap, might make finding a flange easier too.
 

b-boy

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Joined
Oct 2, 2013
Messages
2,155
Location
Buffalo NY
Hello All, I go on this site to look up random things throughout my garage. Just was reading a thread on how to "remove" a vintage cast iron sink. Not sure if this is the correct forum area although I have a similar question.

I just bought a vintage cast iron sink that the drain was one that had a plate for a floor mount. With that being said this has broke off (prior to purchase). My plan was to just install new piping to this although I cannot seem to figure out how to get this rusted piece off. The screws are not coming off. I will try to attach a few pictures to see if that would be helpful. I am going to be getting a cabinet made for this so I don't have to worry about what the actual underside of this unit looks like.

Also curious to see what people use to polish these up, the white enamel (I believe) looks great just a little "dull"

Thanks in advance

Attaching a faucet for that will be the fun part.

I have a similar sink in my basement. The date on the sink is 1919. I finally found a faucet, but the mounting hardware for the faucet was really difficult to locate. I went to all sorts of plumbing stores. No one could help me. They said the sink was too old.

I finally found some pieces and parts on Amazon that worked. I had to do a little custom plumbing work to make it fit, but it works now.
 

LS6 Tommy

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Joined
Dec 27, 2013
Messages
26,162
Location
Northern NJ
Attaching a faucet for that will be the fun part.

I have a similar sink in my basement. The date on the sink is 1919. I finally found a faucet, but the mounting hardware for the faucet was really difficult to locate. I went to all sorts of plumbing stores. No one could help me. They said the sink was too old.

I finally found some pieces and parts on Amazon that worked. I had to do a little custom plumbing work to make it fit, but it works now.

The OP's sink is a Kohler standard style commercial utility sink. Must have touched over 100 of them in the last 35 years. Faucets for them have 8" centers and are readily available. :thumbup:

Tommy
 
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58Yeoman

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Oct 1, 2010
Messages
8,999
Location
Central IL
My brother doesn't have a sink like that, but he did have a "wall mounted faucet" above a regular SS sink in his basement. One handle was stripped for years, so he had an old pair of vice grips on it for a handle.

One day he went to the local Tru Value hardware store to find something that would work in its' place. He found an exact fit faucet. This was in the last 6 months.
 

rburke65

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Nov 10, 2007
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12,349
Location
Canfield, Ohio
I’d use some paint remover for starters, then maybe a wire wheel. Soak it with penetrating fluid of your choice. If after3...4.??? years and ya still +ant
Posen them, cut them off.
 
OP
M

MJBaldwin

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Jun 19, 2012
Messages
36
Location
Delano, MN
Well, I got the p-trap flange off. Next question would be how do i go from this to PVC? I was thinking a toilet flange although think that might be a little too large... I will have some height and depth restrictions when it comes to final connection. I attached a few pictures for reference. 5-1/4" total flange. 2-1/4" drain. 3-1/2" bolt space.

Side notes: Cleaning I have read to use bar-keepers blend in order to clean this up with that.. Curious if I could use a mechanical device (please let me what) to really get a good buff on this?

Another Side note: This is 8" On Center for the faucet.
 

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Stuart in MN

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Minneapolis
A buffing pad like you'd use on a car is probably okay, but it doesn't look that bad in the pictures - polishing it by hand shouldn't take much time or effort.
 
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59 wagon man

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Oct 25, 2010
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1,589
Location
hollywood fla
you might want to look at a new sink like that (commercial mop sink) with I believe it is a free standing trap. this will be a big cast iron thing that can support the sink then a 3" male adapter I believe cause if I remember correctly the trap is 3" female ips
 

SimS

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Joined
Jun 11, 2007
Messages
62
I would take a look at a Fernco adapter/coupling of some sort to go from the sink flange to PVC. Your local big box store may have something or you can go to an online supplier.

SimS
 

bwringer

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Jan 1, 2013
Messages
10,287
Location
Indianapolis
That's a pretty cool sink. I mean, as cool as a sink can be. It would be great to have something like that in my garage.

Honestly, I'd just wash it off a bit and drag the whole thing to a commercial plumbing supplier. There you will find a grumpy guy with a beard who will take one glance, grunt, and after a few minutes of rummaging he will hand you the parts you need.

It's highly doubtful you'll find what you need at a big box store.
 

Simplytodd

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Jan 4, 2014
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148
Location
Houston
Honestly, I'd just wash it off a bit and drag the whole thing to a commercial plumbing supplier. There you will find a grumpy guy with a beard who will take one glance, grunt, and after a few minutes of rummaging he will hand you the parts you need.

This guy nailed it.
 

stokefire7

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Oct 5, 2011
Messages
616
Well, I got the p-trap flange off. Next question would be how do i go from this to PVC? I was thinking a toilet flange although think that might be a little too large... I will have some height and depth restrictions when it comes to final connection. I attached a few pictures for reference. 5-1/4" total flange. 2-1/4" drain. 3-1/2" bolt space.

Side notes: Cleaning I have read to use bar-keepers blend in order to clean this up with that.. Curious if I could use a mechanical device (please let me what) to really get a good buff on this?

Another Side note: This is 8" On Center for the faucet.[/QUOTE

Is using a trap standard out of the question ?
 

stokefire7

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Oct 5, 2011
Messages
616
The transition to plastic would be at the wall. The question is , How thick is your wall ?
 
OP
M

MJBaldwin

Active member
Joined
Jun 19, 2012
Messages
36
Location
Delano, MN
The transition to plastic would be at the wall. The question is , How thick is your wall ?

I am trying to transition just below the sink if possible. Just trying to figure out a fitting that has a flange like the one posted. I am trying to place this in a cabinet with doors not saying I will get a ton of storage under although a little would be better than nothing. If possibly trying to avoid the cast iron trap that is mounted to the floor.
 

Lynden

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May 23, 2015
Messages
672
Location
Southern California
I am trying to transition just below the sink if possible. Just trying to figure out a fitting that has a flange like the one posted.

You can probably find a PVC flange adaptor which has an O.D. of about 5 inches and an I.D. which you can glue a PVC tailpiece to. You might have to use an adaptor or a Fernco coupling to make the tailpiece fit. You will need to drill holes in the cast iron flange to attach the PVC flange.

https://www.grainger.com/product/GF..._on_Your_Search-_-IDPPLARECS&cm_vc=IDPPLARECS
 
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