vintage snowblower help

[andrew240z]

Picked up this Snowhound 20 a while back and I am just now getting around to taking a look at it. it seems in good shape and the motor turns freely. It has a Briggs motor FYI. the Gas tank is bone dry and havent tried to start it yet but it is getting spark. some quick searching on the web shows it was made in the early 60's. Trying to see if its worth getting up and running or if its scrap yard material. maybe just a rebuilt carb?

 

[Gary S]

Don't overthink it. Pour some gas into it and try to start it. If it runs and blows snow, it is worth an oil change. Then use it until it dies.
Snowblowers aren't for working on. They are designed to get work done, not make work for you.

 

[ratdoggy]

Don't overthink it. Pour some gas into it and try to start it. If it runs and blows snow, it is worth an oil change. Then use it until it dies.
Snowblowers aren't for working on. They are designed to get work done, not make work for you.

True I had an old one like that that i would almost have a coronary trying to start it. I love electric start.

 

[cowboy73]

It's likely worth the effort to get running. It looks to be in pretty good shape. The paint isn't even beat off the impeller. It has a float carburetor, right? You might have to disassemble the carb and spray it down with some carb cleaner to free up the needle valve. I'd put some fresh gas in it and new spark plug and try to fire it up. Make sure the engine has the correct amount of oil in it first. Run it for awhile to warm it up and then change the oil.

 

[p_mori7]

It looks like it's a freewheeling model... those are a PITA.

***edit*** after a quick search, found out that the wheels are propelled, but forwards only. Cool machine !

Put a cup of gas in it and crank it !

 

[Stuart in MN]

If it's been sitting a long time, check inside the gas tank for rust. Otherwise I agree with the other guys, give it a try and see if it runs.

 

[dandan111]

Buy a new can of starting fluid!

 

[theoldwizard1]

Throwing some fuel in it and yanking the start rope is a waste of time and energy. The carb is likely gummed up or the gaskets and needle valve seat dried out. (Most of my yard equipment is "salvaged" from prior owners who did not do maintenance on the equipment.)

Buy a new spark plug. With old one out, quirt a bit of carb cleaner or gas into the spark plug hole. Install the new plug and now pull the starter rope a couple of times. If it kicks at all, it is worth saving.

At a minimum, you are going to need a carb rebuild kit and maybe a new float. Don't forget the mounting gasket(s). If there is any rust in the gas tank, remove it, add a bit gasoline and a hand full of clean small nuts/bolts washers (or very clean pea gravel) and shake well ! Empty and repeat until clean. Replace any hoses when you re-assemble.

Those old engines use "points". While they do last a long time, they do not have as much energy as a modern electronic ignition. Briggs & Stratton engines can be easily upgraded to a Magnetron electronic ignition for under $20 with parts from eBay. Makes a HUGE difference. I have a rototiller that is the same vintage and it starts 2nd or 3rd pull every spring.

 

[aandpdan]

Definitely give it a shot.

The carbs are easy enough to rebuild, and parts are available and fairly inexpensive. Just bring all the numbers on the shroud with you when you go for parts.

To clean the fuel tank, I use drywall screws, about 2 cups work great for loosening rust.

Another thing you can do is to use "The Works" toilet bowl cleaner. It WILL take it to bare metal. Just throw in a bottle, then rotate it around, about 15-20 minutes a side. I used the screws to loosen the big **** along with lots of water. I then used "The Works." After the first try it was almost to bare metal but there was still some spots that needed help. Another shaking of drywall screws and I gave the bottom another coat of "The Works" and it's spotless. Rinse it well and coat it with WD40 so it doesn't rust. I followed up with some 2 stroke fuel to rinse it out.

I just picked up a 1971 model 3000 watt Milwaukee Generator from the dump two weeks ago, 7hp Briggs. It had a birds nest (really!) in the fuel tank and it was heavily rusted - no cap. After finding them for $80 on Ebay I figured I'd try to clean it. It's spotless now and no leaks. The carb cost me $20 for new gaskets and a float needle. I had to sand the points on mine but it give a nice bright blue spark. Now it starts first pull and is making power.

 

[Zeke]

Don't overthink it. Pour some gas into it and try to start it. If it runs and blows snow, it is worth an oil change. Then use it until it dies.
Snowblowers aren't for working on. They are designed to get work done, not make work for you.

That's a silly outlook. That's like saying don't bother with your car if it needs more than gas and oil.

@Andrew, a reman carb will save you a lot of aggravation and being sore from pulling the rope. All gas powered equipment should start with a little spray and one pull.

Clean out the tank, change the fuel filter (and lines if they don't look good) and install the carb.

 

[andrew240z]

Gas tank looks pretty clean, it has a drain on it which was open(yeah it leaked out). Put some oil and gas in and did get a few puffs but nothing more. Same plug. The throttle seems very loose like a spring is missing or something. This bowl on the back of the motor has a oil level line but when you add oil it drains out the bottom until you get the bolt all the way in. Looking for a manual...

 

[andrew240z]

Pic

 

[kbs2244]

Other than the engine, check all the pulley and shaft bearings.
They are often ignored.
At the least flush them and oil them.
If you get it running, go back and grease them.
I can’t tell from the PICs what kind of transmission it has.
(Or is it a single speed?)
If it has that friction disk type, the little rubber drive wheel is going to need replacement.

 

[1933]

I think the bowl pictured is the "oil bath" air filter the oil is to help pick up the dust. the line shows how far to fill the oil.

3 things to run- Compression, spark at the tip of the plug, and air/fuel in the combustion chamber.

Spark - Remove plug an ground to fins (must have good ground) Pull starter and check for spark at the plug.

compression - pull the cord -is there some resistance

Fuel in combustion chamber - You may want to pull the bowl (bottom half) of the carb off (the thing that is attached to the orange bowl/air cleaner) If it has a screw in the bottom try not to change the setting (usually bottom out then 1 1/2 turns out) but take the nut off instead. check the bowl for crud and the needle valve/float too (works sort of like a toilet bowl). reinstall and try --Safety first when working with gas or starter fluid!

-Does not need oil to start BUT it does need it to run for more than 12 seconds (I know)

The model number on the side or top will tell everything about the motor:size,carb type, starter... try google

I'm no pro... Larry

 

[1933]

This looks like an "updraft" carburetor. Try to get the choke flap on the carburetor to close (cable operated?) to make sure there is enough vacuum to **** the fuel/air into the combustion chamber...

 

[Call me the Breeze]

It's probably built ten times better than anything you can buy today. hopefully you can get it going

 

[Daddy454]

I think the bowl pictured is the "oil bath" air filter the oil is to help pick up the dust. the line shows how far to fill the oil.

Dust?.......snowblower?

 

[1933]

I think the bowl pictured is the "oil bath" air filter the oil is to help pick up the dust. the line shows how far to fill the oil.

Dust?.......snowblower?

Never heard of a "dusting" of new snow?

 

[Stuart in MN]

It does look like an oil bath air cleaner. Air cleaners weren't all that common on old snow blowers (generally in the winter there's not a lot of dust in the air to worry about) but that doesn't mean no snow blowers had them.

 

[fishbomb]

I bought a 1967 bolens 16 years ago and I still use it every winter. Great old craftsmanship.

 

[Kevin C]

A heads up... And you probably already know this. The older machines don't have dead mans controls and the auger will still spin when you take your hands off of the controls and or if you slip.

A really bad example of this is one I fixed up as a favor.

I rebuilt an old Arien's blower for a neighbor. For some unknown reason when the output chute clogged with heavy New England snow he used his hand to clear it. His hand got snagged by the impeller.

He was the poster guy for why you need to be careful with snow blowers. He had to have a lot of reconstructive surgery. I don't know why, but this happens a lot more than you would believe.

Part of the problem is with a bit of work, the older blowers can live forever. I had brought my neighbors back from pretty poor shape.

His hand really got chewed up.....

 

[incurablescrounge]

That looks like a Toro Power Handle. I got a couple sitting in storage. The white "T" handle down by the motor releases the handle and engine from the snow blower. The idea was one engine to maintain with different attachments. I have a blower and a mower. I think they made them in the 50s. The mower deck I have is cast aluminum with tailfins. It is one of those "round toit" projects!

 

[diggerrick]

Good Lord - please don't chuck that piece of machinery in the scrap yard!

I'm not sure of the vintage of this old Craftsman snowblower, but Dad saved it from the trash pile after Grandpa died. My uncle was going to pitch it because he couldn't get it running. Dad rebuilt the carb, replaced the fuel line and spark plug, and it's been running great for me for over 10 years. It's not very wide and you hear the metal cover clanking over the engine, but it really throws the snow and is heard to stall. I use it mostly for the walk to my shop at the back of my lot now. I have a 2 year old 26" Craftsman for the driveway.

 

[kelpaso1]

It's probably built ten times better than anything you can buy today. hopefully you can get it going

Sorry, you got that wrong.

It IS built ten times better than anything you can buy today.

I work on small engine stuff for a living and I try to show why, and convince my customers that it's better to spend three hundred bucks on their "old piece of ****" instead of spending a few hundred more for a new "real and true piece of ****"

 

[Skin]

that's a old Briggs and Stratton. A replacement carb can be as much as $100-$200. A rebuild kit shouldn't be much more than $40.

if you post the model number, found either stamped into the housing next to the spark plug or on a tag just above the pull start, I can see what's available.

 

[andrew240z]

I am seeing these numbers:
81302 0172016608173

 

[gotmud13613]

It's worth fixing imho. I just picked up a 1960 Craftsman "18" snowblower at an auction this thing looks like it never seen snow yet

 

[1933]

Here is a link for the model ID you posted. B&S uses a common sense system. Have all of those numbers with you if you order parts.


http://www.outdoordistributors.com/Briggs_And_Stratton/briggsmodelid.html