vinyl or steel j-bead?

[billconner]

Getting ready to sheet rock in a couple of weeks. I'm doing a detail at ceiling, windows, and doors that requires a j-bead, a lot. All I've ever used is steel and all I can find is vinyl. I like the stiffness of the steel, and the slight radius, where vinyl seems to end very square.

Recent experience? Should I give up my "we always did it this way" approach?

 

[Monza Harry]

https://www.rona.ca/en/product/bail...-trim-galvanized-metal-dh400x50-18x96-5976003 Rona in Canada shows it and near me [definitely not close to you] shows 1700 pcs. How close are you to the northern border? I'm not familiar with the 10-20 in your bio. I looked to see exactly what you wanted looking for an image, and that was a top result. Harry

 

[billconner]

Thanks. A little more than an hour to Kingston store. Odd it's 8' lengths. Most I've seen is 10' pieces in US.

Wonder if there's a duty on it?

 

[mike93lx]

This guy has a great channel and gives great tips. I've only used metal, but I am sure he has installed more in a day than I have in 20 years of diy projects

 

[paredown]

If you are working with good drywall install, where you have good edges and plumb corners the plastic trim is fine, and you can put it up with adhesive quickly. It's easy to cut and it takes less fill when it comes to mudding.

However, I tend to be doing reno work, where my corners are more likely to be less than perfect and I like that you can fuss with the metal and make sure you set it plumb and square even if the drywall underneath is not. Plus outside corners in hallways and other wear areas will stand up to damage better, so for those places I prefer metal trim. So most often I end up working with metal trim, even though the durability premium has been reduced as the metal trim has gotten progressively lighter.

If it is J bead only (like edges against windows where you want a nice line for finish like a window trim), I most often will use plastic. If it is a long line against, say wood trim or ??--where I want a sharp hard line, I will use metal and be very careful if I have to use more than one length, because your eye will see any waviness and the plastic J is harder to set dead straight.

 

[billconner]

My few outside corners will be bullnose. It's where drywall meets ceiling or window and door jambs, and no trim with j-bead. Local supply has noth vinyl and steel corners, but only vinyl j-bead.

 

[billconner]

Didn't know there was j-bead that isn't mudded Shadow line j-bead. I think I prefer the muddable style.

I am wondering since it's against a window jamb if vinyl is safer from condensation and rust.

 

[billconner]

maybe I should use l-bead instead of j-bead. Confusing.

 

[Kezorm]

Not sure if this would work for your needs, but this is what was used for window drywall returns in my remodel. Turned out great.

Tear Away® Drywall L-Bead | Trim-Tex

Beads with tear-away strips are the gold standard for finishing drywall around windows, doors, and other essentials, resulting in smooth finished edges and far less cleanup.

www.trim-tex.com

 

[billconner]

Exactly what I was looking at. Did you diy any of it or all contract?

 

[PoorUB]

I have used the tear away L bead around a couple bath tub replacements. I liked it, good stuff.

I have also used plastic corner bead in my home. I will not use metal corner bead any longer. Great stuff IMO. I was surprised you are supposed to glue it in place. I never have, just staples and make sure the first coat of mud is pushed in well. Some plastic corner bead has been up for 15 years with no issues.

The stuff is great around bath tubs as it doesn't rust if it gets wet. Many years ago I did some repairs around my bath tub, used metal corner bead and it just rusted away.

 

[paredown]

Not sure if this would work for your needs, but this is what was used for window drywall returns in my remodel. Turned out great.

Tear Away® Drywall L-Bead | Trim-Tex

Beads with tear-away strips are the gold standard for finishing drywall around windows, doors, and other essentials, resulting in smooth finished edges and far less cleanup.

www.trim-tex.com

Yes--tear-away--perfect for where you need sharp edges like against windows. Must have had a brain freeze to leave it out of the story. And the non-rusting for plastic trim is definitely a plus for bathrooms!

 

[billconner]

I found both l-bead and j-bead with tear off. Leaning to the j.

 

[Zeke]

I suspect you could use a small Radi-Plane to ease the edge on the vinyl.

 

[billconner]

Related, paper faced bullnose corner bead or plain vinyl?

 

[Zeke]

I think new construction paper is fine. What I'm not sure about is using hot mud which I typically use for the first pass on metal bead.

 

[billconner]

About to order drywall and all but still torn between L or J where drywall walls butts t&g pine ceiling. Would like a consistent 1/8 or maybe 1/4 inch reveal (gap). I feel like preattaching J and using spacers makes that easier but not sure - never used L. It will be a cut edge - getting rid of taper.