Vinyl Siding Question.

[RonRock]

I am in process of replacing my vinyl siding with new vinyl siding. I built the house myself about 28 years ago. Siding was done by me. So I should remember how the hell I did it! But I can't. The only thing I can think of is that the old siding was actually 4 inches shown. It is a double 4 vinyl, so each piece is /was 8 inch. Easy enough to measure from a level line up high down to give me my starting point. New stuff is not exactly 4 inch.

Anyway my question is how can I get a level line from one side of the building around the garage to the other? If I have a dependable level line I can measure off of it. Here are some pictures for reference. I have worked around the house and am now working on what shows as the left side working off scaffolding.

 

[Renegade1LI]

A laser level is probably the easiest, most accurate. Pick a start point and go 180 deg each way around the building, it lessens your error. If you hit within a 1/4"split the difference & snap away.

 

[KenC]

Water level. Cheap, dead accurate and fast. Pic for explanation but you can use a garden hose with short clear pieces on each end to get to any length you need. Just mark the water level on the tube and transfer the measurement. A drop of food color in each end makes is easier to see. Google has hundreds of example pics.

 

[RonRock]

Thanks guys. I actually have a laser but didn't give it enough thought how to get around the corners. Will give it some more serious thought.

I also considered a water level. That might be a good way. I played around with one years ago. I used a 1 gallon water bottle on one end, and clear hose on the other. Doing some grade work for a patio. Mostly just trying out a new thing. It was a pita with the setup I made. But I think that I can do better.

In the meantime, I got on the roof and pulled the old siding. Looks like I previously did a level line in the Foil Faced Foam. I will have to get my level up there to check. But if it is in fact level, that may be the way I did it years ago.

 

[jack stand]

You could have used the old siding as reference points.
You can still count the nail holes (courses) in the sheathing down from the peak for a starting and reference point taking the different panel height into consideration.
You just need an equal course starting point, not necessarily the bottom or first. You can measure down from it and if I understand your pictures, the front is starting way below the back and you'll need to.
Hopefully you have a piece of the old siding to "see" the relationship of the nail holes to the bottom of the panel to convert it to the new, different exposure siding.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

None of the above. Measure down from the soffit. If the house has settled at all nothing will be level.

 

[The Cobbler]

agree with the prior post. measure down from the soffit for your starting points

 

[BuffettFan]

The siding doesn't have to be level, it has to look level.
Agree with the 2 prior posts.

But, I'd measure to the existing starter strip before you remove it.
It might still be usable, if so, you're halfway there.

 

[Baumeister]

I always rent a builders level, before I start any vinyl siding project. (Some call it a transit, but it's not. Optical instrument with a tripod) You'll need a partner, to help you shoot grade. Establish a level mark on all your outside and inside corners, at instrument height, all the way around the house. Shoot a long side, and the end wall. Move the instrument to the other long wall, and set back up on the same benchmark. Shoot the rest. Now you know what the foundation has done over the years, and where the soffit is in regard to elevation. I just have a helper run a tape up from the ground, and tell him what measurement to mark. You can also shoot the end of a pencil tip. (Holler up or down) Around here, I can rent one for 30 bucks.

 

[rancherbill]

Measure down from the eaves. The trusses, assuming they are factory built, sit on top of the wall and the over hand will be constant

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Measure down from the eaves. The trusses, assuming they are factory built, sit on top of the wall and the over hand will be constant

If the framers know what they're doing. I've seen soffit runs that are 1.5" longer width from start to finish in an 8' run.

 

[pcmeiners]

"If the framers know what they're doing. "

and your house has not settled, my last house tilted >1" depending on how dry the ground became.

 

[Scotto]

If the framers know what they're doing. I've seen soffit runs that are 1.5" longer width from start to finish in an 8' run.

He framed the house so he'll have no one else to blame but himself, lol.

 

[RonRock]

I got it done. I ran a piece level with the highest piece on the left side, the side that was done and I was matching. Ran that piece to the gable, used some scrap pieces to drop down to where I could run another level piece, more scraps to drop. Eventually I was able to figure my starting point width. I kept a close eye on getting everything level and worked my way up. But you can see the long piece from side to side didn't end up perfectly level, but it fits well and no buckle from a mismatch. I'm happy to have that behind me.

As a side note I did see some previous level lines that I must have done on my first round. Must have figured it out the same way. Although if memory serves me, I think that I just measured down and trusted that the Double 4" was actually 8". The new stuff is not so true to size.