Vinyl siding to brick wainscot

[MO351]

A lurker here finally posting a question.

Anyways, I'm getting ready to have a brick wainscot put on my house. The house has a slab foundation and currently has full vinyl siding. I"m going to pull the siding off up about 39.5 inches. Underneath that is plywood/osb (whatever it is). Anyways, is it going to hurt that to get rained on in between the vinyl being off and the brick going up? It's supposed to rain here over the weekend including Monday. Tuesday the mason is supposed to start on the brick. I'm trying to figure out when I can take of the siding so he can do his thing. Trying to get some opinions on this.

Thanks.

 

[Franz©]

Houses in the process of getting built get rained on regularly, and it doesn't effect them much.

A more important question is what is the "mason" doing for the brick ledge since you say the house sits on a slab. Bricks are real heavy.

 

[MO351]

There's already a poured footing for it. Extends out past the slab. It's about 14 inches below the top of the slab.

I got to thinking I forgot to actually check to see if there's Tyvek on the plywood. I know the wood is there by pushing/banging on the siding with my hand. But I haven't pulled any yet to see if there's any Tyvek on the outside of the plywood. I just don't want the water being an issue as far as drying time to wait to put the brick on or getting water in the house.

FWIW, this is an existing house about 4 years old.

 

[volvo]

.
It probably not hurt anything, but if it was mine I would try to keep as dry as possible. Heavy duty black painters plastic tarp cut in half or thirds for $25 and a few staples is cheap insurance ...H

 

[kbs2244]

Be sure to have flashing between the bottom row of siding and the top row of brick.
You want to keep as much water from behind the brick as possible.
But be sure he leaves "weep holes" in the botttom row of brick anyway.

 

[MO351]

Started on pulling off the vinyl siding last night. There is no Tyvek underneath. Just bare OSB. Guess I'll get me some plastic.

Thanks.

 

[volvo]

.
I would MAKE sure to have the mason put up a good quality water proof barrier besides a felt paper. That sticky rubber membrane comes to mind...H

 

[MO351]

I can't remember the exact name of it but I'm having them put up a neoprene/rubber type flashing/membrane that's 60 mil thick between the brick and the house to waterproof it. I think it comes in about a 4 foot wide roll. I'm having the wainscot put up because we've been having a problem with flood water getting deep enough to come into the house between the slab and the wall framing and some sliding glass doors on a back patio.

 

[boiler7904]

I can't remember the exact name of it but I'm having them put up a neoprene/rubber type flashing/membrane that's 60 mil thick between the brick and the house to waterproof it. I think it comes in about a 4 foot wide roll. I'm having the wainscot put up because we've been having a problem with flood water getting deep enough to come into the house between the slab and the wall framing and some sliding glass doors on a back patio.

There isn't a brick veneer on wood stud wall in the world that will fix that problem. Brick is a porous clay product. It will absorb and transmit water. A properly built brick wall also has weep holes or cotton rope weeps at the base. Their job is to give water behind the brick a place to exit. Guess what, they also allow standing water on the outside into the cavity between the sheathing and the brick.

The membrane product is probably something like a self-adhesive ice and water shield. While there should be a strip of metal flashing or flexible rubber flashing covering the top of the brick ledge and extending up the wall to cover the joint between the framing and foundation, it needs to stop a few (maybe 6 or 8) inches above the foundation. The main reason is that the building needs to breathe. Ice and water shield will not allow that. You will be trapping water vapor in the walls which leads to fun stuff like mold, mildew, rot, etc.

The part about the patio door confuses me.

You aren't going to want to hear this but your problem is more likely drainage and terrain around the building. You need to start with some grading around the building to make water flow around it.

As far as temporarily covering the wall sheathing, I'd fasten felt paper to the sheathing starting at the bottom so that it overlaps the joint between the framing and the foundation and work my way up overlapping as I went.

Temporary plastic on the outside of the building won't hurt anything.

I'd also keep all of the vinyl siding you tear off until the job is done. As soon as you throw it away, a piece will break and you won't be able to by a matching color / style. I'd also keep a few pieces in the attic for a similar repair in the future.

 

[MO351]

Our flooding problem is on a MUCH larger scale than my property here in town and has nothing to do with the topography of my place. In a nut shell the city has allowed alot of new developments to be constructed without enforcing the city code for storm water management. There's NO storm water management provisions in place therefore creating flooding in several residential areas. There's more but too much for this topic.

I understand that brick is porous hince the materials that will be used to waterproof it which will work just fine. The wainscot will only be about 39 inches up past the slab so the house being able to breathe shouldn't be a problem. It'll also be down in the ground to the poured footing about 14 inches below the top of the slab. Doing this wainscot is our ONLY option short of building a very expensive retaining wall around myself and neighbors.

As for the patio it's all figured out.

And yes, I have no plans on discarding the vinyl siding that I'm taking off.

Thanks.

 

[MO351]

http://www.yorkflashings.com/com_wascoseal.asp

http://www.yorkflashings.com/documents/york209.pdf

That's what will be used for the waterproofing material. The 60 mil version.