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Vinyl siding trans. from regular to shake - help

gball

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Feb 18, 2010
Messages
106
Location
Northern Michigan
I'm starting the siding on my garage addition. We decided to put some shake style up on the gable. Plan is to start it as close to flush with the bottom of the over hangs as i can. I know this is pretty common but never really looked at how they transition from the regular siding to the shakes. The guys at the siding supply place said that the starter strips are different and the way they know of it being done is to end the reg. siding in J then restart the shake in another piece of J. Picturing what this will look like, i don't think i'll like that look. What i would rather see is just a more "natural" looking over lap. Was thinking i might be able to cut/rip the last piece of siding and punch nailing slots in it then lay the shake starter over that nailing at the same point...

How is yours done?
 
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Architorture

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Feb 13, 2013
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625
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PA
If you end up cutting off the nailing strip on the top piece of siding you should treat it with a snap lock punch and terminate it inside some utility trim. Then maybe a piece of drip trim then whatever kind of starter for the shake (vinyl shake?)

Same color or contrasting between the 2 siding types?
 

Architorture

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Feb 13, 2013
Messages
625
Location
PA
A piece of aluminum bent into a drip trim in a color matching the lower, upper or other trim could be way to clean up the fussy transition from horizontal to shake
 

Barlow L

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Sep 17, 2007
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58
Location
Virginia
I think your plan will be the cleanest method. I would apply a strip of ice & water along the transition seam. You don't want to nail the starter strip tight since you are overlapping on siding.

What brand shake are you using? We did our whole house with shake from Alside, very well made.
 

BFHtime

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Mar 31, 2012
Messages
983
If you cut off the holes,instead of punching new holes, you could put a piece of finish trim, that will essentially get your holes back (it just slides in and you have holes). The finish trim is faster but adds height. Punching requires the tool and takes a little longer, not much longer really. Remember the holes have to be elongated for changes in temperature, so the material can expand and contract, drilling holes is not good enough.


It also depends on the the depth of the J channel. If it the vinyl ends near the top of a piece then sometimes a J channel can finish it off nicely if the thicker part of the vinyl can hold itself in the J channel.

It all depends on where on the vinyl you end. Also on how you want it to look.

A picture would help.

Good luck with your project.
 
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gball

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Feb 18, 2010
Messages
106
Location
Northern Michigan
I bought the slot punch tool as well as the lock tab punch tool. I guess i'll just have to see where the last piece of regular siding ends up. Another way i have heard it being done is to step out the shake area. i guess some foam could be used. I don't want to go that way either because i have a window in the gable and don't want to take it out.
All the siding is Mastic brand. The regular siding is "quiet willow" a green color that looks greyish sometimes. Soffit, fascia, and trim is white, and the shakes (i think) are going to be "Timber", a brownish weathered wood color.

This is the wall i'll be putting the shakes on.


This is kinda the look i want.
 

Architorture

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Feb 13, 2013
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625
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PA
knowing what the starter strip looks like would help. in your example it appears the shakes overlap the horizontal siding below. i would think this should be able to be achieved using the standard starter strip and the only variable might be how you terminate the top of the horizontal siding.

in a perfect world the top piece of horizontal would just end up in the perfect place...that usually doesn't happen by accident, but maybe with some careful measurement and planning you can get it to work out that way.
 
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gball

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Feb 18, 2010
Messages
106
Location
Northern Michigan
in a perfect world the top piece of horizontal would just end up in the perfect place...that usually doesn't happen by accident, but maybe with some careful measurement and planning you can get it to work out that way.

LOL... yea, i'm not counting on anything working out that easy... going to pick up the material for the shakes today. i don't know what the starter looks like either, just that is is different than the other stuff i already have. once i have everything i'll play around with some ideas and see if i can get some pictures.
 

jlckmj

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Dec 7, 2009
Messages
732
Location
SE Wiscosin
My garage is covered in cement board but the idea is the same. I used a piece of trim board above the siding, then bent a drip edge to set over the top of that and under the cedar shakes. The shakes are made out of vinyl.

All the corner boards and trim boards are shimmed up so they are proud (higher than)of the siding and then caulked. I was too cheap to pay what they wanted for cement board 5/4 trim boards ($$$) I still have to go out this summer and put a 2nd coat of paint on the trim.

jim
Garageatnight004_zpsa2e05bd4.jpg
 

wnstwolf

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Nov 7, 2007
Messages
837
Location
New York and PA
I have the same setup as Jim above. You can buy the PVC trim and use it as a transistion strip. Level and clean. for methe two different types of material need a natural break. In your pictue they almost look to over lap. Seems awkward
 

kmcphee

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Dec 20, 2012
Messages
66
Location
Hammonds Plains, Nova Scotia, Canada
I'm doing mine the same as Jim above except instead of the cement board I'm going to use an 8" wide piece of white PVC trim board. You can get it with a wood grain. It is 1 1/4" thick.
 
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