To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Vise Grips & a Slide Hammer

gj67stang

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 9, 2010
Messages
897
Location
Sycamore, OH
Tonight's quick project was a set of adapters to mount standard vise grips onto my slide hammer.

1/2"-20 coupling nuts
1 each: 1/4-20, 5/16-18, and 3/8-16 fully-threaded cap screws
lathe
welder

CIMG7111Medium.jpg


CIMG7107Medium.jpg


CIMG7109Medium.jpg
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

nosnownogo

Member
Joined
Dec 3, 2009
Messages
22
where i work there are some modified with a yoke for the puller to draw in a straight line with the jaw teeth . Some hardened pins tend to snap off.
The rivet (pivot) is removed and the yoke is installed with a new longer rivet
 

IndyGarage

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 29, 2010
Messages
9,734
Location
Indy
Great Idea.

Question for anybody here. I have a HF bodywork stud welder I bought about a year ago to pull a panel out. It comes with a slide hammer that has a knurled camlock that grabs the pins so you can hammer on them.

Was using it a couple weeks ago and the cheapo cam wasn't hardened and lost its ability to grab the pins, I needed to get the job done so I just welded the whole head to a pair of vise grips. (not as neatly as those above, but it got the job done).

Does anybody know where I can purchase a new Camlock head or pin grabbing head for the slide hammer? I like that idea over the vise grips, but haven't been able to find just a head for purchase anywhere. I can find an entire hammer kit, but I don't need one.

PS. I immediately found another use for the vise grips in the slide hammer. I had to pull a tranfer case/driveshaft seal out of an F150, but couldn't get a seal puller in there because the output shaft was in the way - I bent a 1/4 inch wide piece of steel at a 90 degree angle - cut the lip off at about 1/8 inch - which fit into the seal opening beside the output shaft, grabbed the long end in the vise grips and it hammered right out.
 

BWS

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 3, 2006
Messages
923
Location
Mnts of Va
Very nice job......

Its funny how much our puller gets used.....at what seems like stupid chit,until you can't get the job done any other way.May have to fancy ours up a bit,seein the nice job OP did.BW
 

Brad54

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 13, 2006
Messages
4,646
A slide hammer is one of those tools that should be in EVERY car-guys shop. Once you remember you have it, a lot of jobs become a whole lot easier.

I've seen a tip for pulling dents on heavy panels (like my '61 Suburban!) where, instead of the small stud from a stud gun, they'd weld a sheetmetal tail to the panel (like the stud, but with a longer contact surface to the panel). Then, on the vise grip jaws they'd weld one piece of rod sideways across the lower jaw, and two pieces across the inside of the upper jaw, so when you clamp onto the sheetmetal, the rods are acting as the teeth.

As soon as I start the bodywork on the Suburban, I'll be using that tip. Already have a pair of sacrificial Vise Grips!

-Brad
 

jamesemery728

Well-known member
Joined
May 2, 2009
Messages
961
Very well done. The beauty of these is that you can still use the vise grips with out the slide hammer if you want to.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

diesel research

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 12, 2010
Messages
5,440
Location
gulf coast, TEXAS
A slide hammer is one of those tools that should be in EVERY car-guys shop. Once you remember you have it, a lot of jobs become a whole lot easier.

I've seen a tip for pulling dents on heavy panels (like my '61 Suburban!) where, instead of the small stud from a stud gun, they'd weld a sheetmetal tail to the panel (like the stud, but with a longer contact surface to the panel). Then, on the vise grip jaws they'd weld one piece of rod sideways across the lower jaw, and two pieces across the inside of the upper jaw, so when you clamp onto the sheetmetal, the rods are acting as the teeth.

As soon as I start the bodywork on the Suburban, I'll be using that tip. Already have a pair of sacrificial Vise Grips!

-Brad


For long "dents", "wiggle wire" and a "rake" (claw) is a better removal method.

DF-507_501TK_508_508TK.jpg


34786.JPG
 

D KRAGER

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 16, 2007
Messages
581
Location
Central IL
Ahh yes, my Grandpa made a couple of those years ago. Whenever we tore down an old shed, we would save all the metal siding. They work great for pulling the nails.
 

jamesemery728

Well-known member
Joined
May 2, 2009
Messages
961
Where did you get the 1/2-20 coupling nuts. The only ones I have been able to find are 1/2-13.
 

JeepsAreBuilt

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 24, 2006
Messages
1,066
Location
The Beautiful NorthWest
I missed something, I don't get how this it used.
Quick exp pls.

the wiggle wire is welded onto the panel and is pulled by the "claw" as it is hooked onto each bend thats away from the panel. The bottom bend is whats welded to the panel. So, when you pull it by the handle it pulls at multiple locations - where the wire is welded at. How you weld it to the panel is another answer - you see the copper pieces in the picture ? Those are tips and attached to a resistance welder of some kind. The skinny tips are designed to weld the wiggle wire on. Here - a picture explains what I wrote better:

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/183253_186285524742069_100000818685598_399956_1745128_n.jpg
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom