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Vise Jaws

Adam McLaughlin

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Joined
Oct 13, 2008
Messages
1,843
Location
Santa Rosa, CA
Hey Guys,

Where are you guys sourcing your blank vise jaws? I need a set of blank jaws that I can drill to fit my vise. The local vendor says that they are on a 4-5 week wait to get a set of replacement jaws for my Columbian D45 which are coming from WMH tool group, the people whom source Wilton / Columbian etc.

Any ideas?

Adam
 
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dxdexter

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Aug 1, 2006
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1,923
If you find them, good luck drilling holes. I bought a set for my Record vise many years ago and the holes didn't line up properly. They were harder than the hinges of hell and undrillable.
 

Elroy

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Oct 15, 2005
Messages
3,467
Location
kentucky
Make some.

Aluminum, Copper, Brass or Hard Rock Maple are all good

Elroy actually prefers the wood jaws as they conform to curved surfaces and don't leave "diamond knurl" marks. Elroy came to the conclusion to ditch the original jaws about 25 years ago when a motor came apart and there were "vise" marks in the face of the connecting rods. Elroy decided right then and there he would never inflect such damage on his parts.

Sure they might only last a month or so but they are easy to make. Especially with transfer punches and they're cheap. Elroy makes them up in batches.

If your particular vise has "keyed" jaws, this may not be that viable of an options but still worth considering.
 

Uncle Buck

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Joined
Mar 7, 2005
Messages
9,120
Location
Kansas
Hey Guys,

Where are you guys sourcing your blank vise jaws? I need a set of blank jaws that I can drill to fit my vise. The local vendor says that they are on a 4-5 week wait to get a set of replacement jaws for my Columbian D45 which are coming from WMH tool group, the people whom source Wilton / Columbian etc.

Any ideas?

Adam

Yup, pay the man and wait if they are the right inserts for the vise. :thumbup:
 

-B-

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Joined
Feb 4, 2009
Messages
1,567
Location
Northshore of Boston
I picked up a set of urethane knurled magnetic jaws at the local Woodcraft store they work well. First thing I do to a new to me vise is turn the jaws around so the smooth side is out then true them up as best i can to be parallel.
 
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A

Adam McLaughlin

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Joined
Oct 13, 2008
Messages
1,843
Location
Santa Rosa, CA
Make some.

Aluminum, Copper, Brass or Hard Rock Maple are all good

Elroy actually prefers the wood jaws as they conform to curved surfaces and don't leave "diamond knurl" marks. Elroy came to the conclusion to ditch the original jaws about 25 years ago when a motor came apart and there were "vise" marks in the face of the connecting rods. Elroy decided right then and there he would never inflect such damage on his parts.

Sure they might only last a month or so but they are easy to make. Especially with transfer punches and they're cheap. Elroy makes them up in batches.

If your particular vise has "keyed" jaws, this may not be that viable of an options but still worth considering.

Hummm... Elroy, you've just given me a great idea! Why not get a piece of copper flat bar, or brass flat bar and then cut it to shape, and then drill the holes where they need to be? That's a great idea.

The previous owner of this vise already drilled the jaw insert mounting holes all of the way through the vise "arms", so swapping out jaw inserts should be as easy as pie.

Hummm... You are a smart Kentuckian, Elroy. Make my parents proud.

Adam
 

Vinko

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Jul 7, 2008
Messages
5,829
Location
Los Angeles
There were some 6" Wilton USA-made copper ones on Ebay -- several in fact. I bought a pair. Then I checked back, and there was one left. A week ago. Not the type you need to drill though...
 
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Adam McLaughlin

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Joined
Oct 13, 2008
Messages
1,843
Location
Santa Rosa, CA
I think what I am going to do is to run to Reliable in the morning and snag some Aluminum bar stock, drill it up and then go to Maselli's for some Bronze stock to do the same. Hummm... Darn good idea. I might get tomorrow off if the weather continues to rain. I normally climb towers for my day job and weather makes everyone scared, so they usually back out easily.

That's a good solution for my "bar style" vise jaws like on my Rock Islands and later Columbians, still not sure what to do about my "T" shaped earlier Columbian like the one on my main bench right now.

Adam
 

gorilla

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 13, 2007
Messages
1,653
I machine my vice jaws out of aluminum for soft jaws or 02 tool steel for hard jaws. The hard jaws are heat treated and tempered with a torch in automotive drain oil and then surface ground to be smooth and parallel. Wilton jaws are $35.00 a pair on the open market, a stick of 02 tool steel is about $20.00 from McMaster and will make two sets of jaws. It's nice to know that some one else in SR reads this web sight.
 

eschoendorff

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 6, 2005
Messages
8,991
Location
Michigan
Make some.

Aluminum, Copper, Brass or Hard Rock Maple are all good

Elroy actually prefers the wood jaws as they conform to curved surfaces and don't leave "diamond knurl" marks. Elroy came to the conclusion to ditch the original jaws about 25 years ago when a motor came apart and there were "vise" marks in the face of the connecting rods. Elroy decided right then and there he would never inflect such damage on his parts.

Sure they might only last a month or so but they are easy to make. Especially with transfer punches and they're cheap. Elroy makes them up in batches.

If your particular vise has "keyed" jaws, this may not be that viable of an options but still worth considering.


What he said.... unless you can find some already made for CHEEP!
 
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Elroy

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Oct 15, 2005
Messages
3,467
Location
kentucky
As a follow up to this old thread, Elroy tenders these hard wood vise jaw inserts for your enjoyment:

It also helps to have the appropriate size transfer screws. In this case 5/16-18. Start off by cutting some hard wood blanks.

Picture001.jpg


Install the transfer screws in all (4) locations

Picture002.jpg


Line up the blocks and close the vise solid to mark the hole locations on the back side of the blocks.

Picture015.jpg


Picture006.jpg


Pilot drill through the block from the back side

Picture009.jpg


Flip over and counter bore for the screws heads using the pilot drill to pick up on. Counter bore for the heads first going deep enough to cover the screw heads. Drill the clearance hole for the screw shank last

Picture011.jpg


Picture013.jpg


Install and enjoy.

Picture017.jpg
 

Elroy

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Oct 15, 2005
Messages
3,467
Location
kentucky
They are excellent for delicate work where the parts could be easily marred. Elroy trusts that it's apparent these are not for heavy clamping situations.
 

cdent

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Joined
Aug 10, 2008
Messages
828
You can also make slip over soft faces out of many things. A little button magnet can keep it in place if needed. Careful with imbedded grit in any soft jaw face. Call a woodworker in the phone book and see if you can get scraps, possibly for free.
 

Griff93

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Joined
Jul 25, 2009
Messages
1,121
Location
Huntsville, AL
That's really cool. I need to get some more of those thread in blind transfer punches. I bought an m8x1.25 to see if I like them cause I have a bunch of M8 weld nuts. It's amazing how much little things like that make building things enjoyable instead of frustrating.
 

bmwpower

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Staff member
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Apr 24, 2005
Messages
12,578
Location
NJ
I know we're talking about wood, but is there any way to easily make the knurling on metal jaws without a huge milling setup?
 

jteck75

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Joined
Nov 25, 2009
Messages
294
Location
Benton Ky.
I've got a set on my vise at home,if you get the rock hard black delrin,they probably would slip,but the softer white stuff does great.
 

slotmachines

New member
Joined
Nov 29, 2009
Messages
1
It's amazing how much little things like that make building things enjoyable instead of frustrating.
 
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