Vise opinions...

[Tejaas]

Ok so here is the deal.


I happened across another older vise, this one a swivelbase Yost #204, I believe. Manufactured in Holland, Michigan - It has the older (?) flared/flatted handle ends.


This vise is rusty, but the castings are in pristine condition - the jaws line up tight and square, etc... However it has a somewhat bent handle, and as it turns out the ACME screw is kinked.


It is kinked, as in she will not turn more than a 1/2 turn in either direction. I'm talking extreme binding in the guidenut. I can SEE the rod wobble, and I'm positive it IS NOT rusted/fouled/seized due to corrosion or the like.


I am $30 into it, and for $110 more I can order a brand new Screw/Handle "kit" directly from Yost.


I would have to literally cut the old threaded rod out of the vise to disassemble it, but that's easy enough.


I like the idea of a shiny new and straight ball-ended handle, new guide, and screw paired with the original old castings... But would $140 total investment be able to be recouped should I ever decide to part ways with it...?


What would you do?


Here's a few hasty photos of the vise in question, as well as the Yost "Repair Kit".



~Tejaas~

 

[bigcaddy]

Contact member KMScott and have him take a look. He's the resident vise parts manufacturer. There is another member that specializes in handles but I don't know his name on here.

I would have it repaired and use it because it's a great vise. As for the handle, I would try and salvage to old handle because the new one looks imported but I could be wrong

 

[jakemac]

A thought -

Since the main screw comes most of the way out, can the pin holding the main nut be removed ? This would allow you to drive the main nut out the back, then once released from it's slot perhaps the whole jaw assembly could be pulled out together. Releasing the main nut from the static jaw may give you the extra play you need to un-screw the nut from the threaded rod.

If the jaw assembly can't be taken out that way, then at the very least you may still have the play you need to un-screw the nut while it's sticking out of the back of the static jaw.

If this works, you could try to use a press to straighten the threaded screw.

Good luck, we're pulling for ya.

 

[EOC_Jason]

No way to get it all the way out? I've never seen one that bad... If you can then you can probably straighten it in a shop press...

You can buy the new parts and you might still be able to make a few bucks off of it, but really for spending under $200 that is still a quality vise for personal use.

 

[Outlawmws]

Show pics of the "kinked" area. Is it bent, or stretched? If bent, work on straightening it while still inside the slide.

If it is buggered threads, get in there with a small file.

 

[Fretters]

Slide the front jaw out as far as it will go and try and take a photo of the nut and leadscrew at the rear.

Show pics of the "kinked" area. Is it bent, or stretched?

That one is a beggar to sort when it happens. I had one which was stretched over about three turns of the screw. Ended up filing that portion of thread off completely, and had to take a slight section off the front on the nut too, (one or so turn of thread had been mangled), to get that vice working as it should. That leadscrew & nut had just about every problem it could have; bent & stretched leadscrew & mangled nut thread.

 

[Tejaas]

As I said, the threaded rod is kinked and im guessing someone along the way tried to muscle the kink thru the nut with a cheater bar, hence the vise being locked up and the handle bent.

I cut the vise apart today, everything is good to go, minus the screw/handle assembly and the nut. Just as I assumed, the screw was obliterated to the point it had actually split the nut in half and was protruding through.

Anyways, I appreciate all of your guys constructive input, but I had started this thread to see what the popular opinion was in regards to scrap or salvage and at what point.

I sent Yost an email inquiring about their replacement #204 screw/nut. Depending on what they have to say I will either purchase one, or dig thru the salvaged "vise guts" pile and retrofit a different manufacturers nut/screw into the Yost.

Photos to follow momentarily.


~Tejaas~

 

[Tejaas]

As acquired, minus jaws:

Screw cut out to disassemble:

Close up of damage:

Here is the static jaw in an electrolysis bath, along with the baseplate.
I opted to use my small electrolysis tank because the big one has a couple of civil war artillery shells and a Spencer carbine being cleaned right now. Tight fit, but it'll work.

And here is the rest of the #204 awaiting it's turn for a bath:

I'm thinking I am gonna paint it after I get her cleaned and fixed up... but I haven't decided on a color. Maybe Rustoleum Blue, with black lettering?


~Tejaas~

 

[oldldh]

I haven't done this in a while, so----

I vote for---

"Arrest-Me-Red"!!!!

 

[Tejaas]

Update:

Here is the days outcome...
Everything has been run thru electrolysis, degreased, and primed. Once the new screw arrives and I decide on a color, I will post up the final product.

~Tejaas~

 

[Tejaas]

Contact member KMScott and have him take a look. He's the resident vise parts manufacturer. There is another member that specializes in handles but I don't know his name on here.

I would have it repaired and use it because it's a great vise. As for the handle, I would try and salvage to old handle because the new one looks imported but I could be wrong

Sorry for the delayed response... thanks fkr the tip, and you also raise a valid point.

YOST got back to me, the replacement handles for all of their heavy-duty machinist vises are still US made at their location in Holland, Michigan.

Yost states that the #204 has always had a screw in 7/8" diameter, and therefore they guarantee the replacement is a perfect fit to a #204 of any year. The nut has gone thru a few minor changes, but at most with a bit of light finetuning will work as intended.

Just an FYI should anyone hit the forums for information on this.

I placed my order (with free shipping!) And UPS will have it here on Thursday.

~Tejaas~

 

[Tejaas]

A thought -

Since the main screw comes most of the way out, can the pin holding the main nut be removed ? This would allow you to drive the main nut out the back, then once released from it's slot perhaps the whole jaw assembly could be pulled out together. Releasing the main nut from the static jaw may give you the extra play you need to un-screw the nut from the threaded rod.

If the jaw assembly can't be taken out that way, then at the very least you may still have the play you need to un-screw the nut while it's sticking out of the back of the static jaw.

If this works, you could try to use a press to straighten the threaded screw.

Good luck, we're pulling for ya. [emoji106]

That was my plan B as well...

However the pin Yost used at the time of manufacture is very tall (1 3/4"), and was not able to be driven out because it contacts the bottom of the screw and -still- had half an inch worth of itself in the static jaw casting. I didn't want to risk damaging the casting by cutting it out (VERY limited access!) So opted to go surgical, haha!

~Tejaas~